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Old 10-05-2016, 07:43 PM   #15
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Who knows. I try to get it as close as I can, better a little low than a little high in front because the trailer is more stable with weight shifting onto the hitch than away from it, moving along the rises and dips in the road.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:21 AM   #16
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We are not really getting at one of the OP's questions, and one that I have, too: "At what level should I be concerned about being too high [or too low]?"

In a perfect world the answer would be that only perfectly level is acceptable. But, this is not a perfect world, and a some small amount out of level is going to happen and it is not going to present problems.

The question is, how little out of level is still acceptable? For example is a quarter bubble OK? Half a bubble? A bubble barely out?

Use the truck scale. Load on one axle versus another. Side to side variations as well.

Use an observer to see which brake locks first at low speed. Braking force is more to the forward axle, but . . .

It all works together.
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:51 AM   #17
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slowmover -- thanks for an informed and valuable posting, but it is not remotely close to answering the question: "The question is, how little out of level is still acceptable? For example is a quarter bubble OK? Half a bubble? A bubble barely out?"
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Old 10-07-2016, 07:55 AM   #18
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IMO, never nose high. I shoot for less than 1/2" low in front (level is ideal, but rarely happens). I measure lower belt to ground at the seam where the end caps meet the flat sides. Fine tuning done with WD adjustment. I wouldn't ask on "bubble" position. Too many variables between leveling devices and mounting techniques.
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:22 AM   #19
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dznf0g - thanks, that is helpful. (I agree on the shortcomings of my bubble approach, but the ground may not be level either so maybe there is no way we can be certain.)
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Old 10-07-2016, 08:46 AM   #20
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There is a parking area near our house that is dead level, so that's where I go to verify my hitch setup before a long trip. I measure front and rear lower belt line trim with a tape, if it's within an inch between level and low in front on our 25 I know that's about as close as I can get it, good to go.

Also a good place to measure and compare truck wheel well heights to previous settings we had at the CAT scale showing our actual axle loads.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:18 AM   #21
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dznf0g - thanks, that is helpful. (I agree on the shortcomings of my bubble approach, but the ground may not be level either so maybe there is no way we can be certain.)
Yes you will almost never find level ground outside. That is why we usually say parallel to the ground rather than level. Use a ruler to measure the frame height front and rear. Shot for within a 1/2 in., about as good as you can get with most hitch shanks. Favoring the front as higher.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:27 AM   #22
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Yes you will almost never find level ground outside. That is why we usually say parallel to the ground rather than level. Use a ruler to measure the frame height front and rear. Shot for within a 1/2 in., about as good as you can get with most hitch shanks. Favoring the front as higher.
I live in Illinois....everything is pretty much level...over the length of the rig anyway. My measurements are taken where you see me parked in my avatar.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:39 AM   #23
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The reason I suggested to favor the front as being higher is that increases the tongue weight whereas if it is lower that reduces the tongue weight. This is a function of the type of axles used.
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Old 10-07-2016, 09:43 AM   #24
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ProPride - What is too high in the front?

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Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
The reason I suggested to favor the front as being higher is that increases the tongue weight whereas if it is lower that reduces the tongue weight. This is a function of the type of axles used.

Good point. On a leaf sprung twin axle the balancer link keeps equal weight on both axles independent of the trailer angle. On a torsion axle, raising the front reduces the load on the front axle and increases tongue weight. This is even more pronounced if the axles are old and stiff.

Edit. This can be seen on a trailer with a weak tongue jack. Raising the tongue adds load to the jack and like my old trailer, the jack limits out. Before I installed the interior I could lower the tongue and lift it slightly by hand. It was almost balanced on the front axle.
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:30 AM   #25
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Trouble is, this is being discussed with the trailer in a static mode. When moving, the axles pitch following the road surface, the weight of the trailer shifting with it. I like level but favor lower in front slightly if I cannot adjust to level.

When there is a shift in weight, I think it is better to shift forward than back for sway resistance and traction on the truck's rear axle, and that is more likely with the front adjusted level or slightly low.

Open to discussion, this has been my perception.
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Old 10-07-2016, 02:13 PM   #26
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slowmover -- thanks for an informed and valuable posting, but it is not remotely close to answering the question: "The question is, how little out of level is still acceptable? For example is a quarter bubble OK? Half a bubble? A bubble barely out?"

Numbers work because they can be replicated. The rig can be "off" even when the numbers are the same due to work suspension on either vehicle, under inflated tires, etc.

But only a certified scale is level IN ITSELF.

Full propane, full fresh water plus normal gear aboard the TT at a minimum.

Weight representative in the TV loaded for camping, full fuel and all passengers aboard. Get this reading once and it can duplicated w/o passengers, etc.

Rough it in at home using TV fender to ground measurements. One setting or another will come closest to "level" on the TT. A hair nose down (as seen on a level, not otherwise obvious) is the mark.

Make the usual three passes across the scale and check level after any adjustments which bring measured WD to best spec.

Not worth screwing around with it until the whole thing is as close as one can make it. THEN any new components or alterations may be warranted.

With WD "ideal" what then is the load per TT wheel position? Now check the level in the doorframe while on the scale.

Most give up too early.
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Old 10-07-2016, 03:05 PM   #27
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Go to the Can Am RV Centre website. See Andrew Thomsons article on setting torsion bars (44.1; 1/16). Posts here as Andrew_T.

Work from the larger picture. The END result is a level trailer. Use of numbers from a scale (the refined, but repeatable approach) makes any changes obvious.
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Old 12-07-2016, 12:39 PM   #28
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Can someone let me know the approximate hight of the trailer ball with trailer level. I just got a 2016 dodge ram 4x4 3500 diesel and it's pretty high. I have to go pick up my 2016 flying cloud and I need to know how much of a drop hitch to buy.
Thanks
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