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Old 06-06-2013, 10:42 AM   #1
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2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
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ProPride WD Bars

I have recently switched to heavier bars with my ProPride, and so have a set of 1000 lb bars cluttering up my garage.

They are free to anyone that wants them for either the cost of coming to get them if you are close to San Antonio, TX, or the cost of shipping.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:54 AM   #2
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This might be better in the unofficial PP thread but I'll ask here anyway - why did you increase the bars and what have you experienced in terms of ride handling and weight distribution? Thx
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:57 AM   #3
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Steve, I am curious why you switched to the heavier bars.

Sean at Propride recommended 1400# bars for our Ram 1500/25' Flying Cloud to be sure we get full weight distribution. Our tongue weight varies by load around 1000-1100# with the Propride installed. At first I thought that was too heavy a bar, but in use I believe he's on the mark. They transfer the weight very well and offer good flexibility. Very nice ride.

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Old 06-06-2013, 11:14 AM   #4
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When using the ProPride hitch on the 30' classic, Sean's recommendation is to use 1400 pound bars. I have the 1400 pound bars and they appear to be the correct setup.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:15 AM   #5
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To answer both of your questions, I had, I'm giving away, 1000 pound bars. I originally bought this hitch for a 25', and now the 31' has a tongue weight of 1150 +,- and the 1000 pounders were really stressed carrying this much weight. The rig has less porpoising with the 1400 bars, and it is easier to get the correct amount of weight distribution.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #6
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Hmmmm....Sean recommended 1400 for mine too but (since I'm clearly smarter than the manufacturer) I ordered the 1000s because the AS manual said tongue weight can not exceed 1000 lbs. But I have some porpoising still on those awful concrete roads and wonder if the 1400s would improve the ride? I can still dial in the right amount of WD no matter the size of the bars....

Since my dealer installed this and I didn't, how complicated would it be to swap them out?
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Since my dealer installed this and I didn't, how complicated would it be to swap them out?
It's not complicated, and actually just two bolts and the two "U" bolts at the ends of the bars. The bars, the sleeves they fit in, and the two little "pucks" that hold the bars in the sleeves are changed.

The thing about the weight range of the bars is, even if your tongue weight is 800 pounds, by the time you add the ProPride and all it's hardware, your TW will be over 1000. And no matter what side of the argument you subscribe to if the weight is tongue weight or truck weight, it's still located where it is and effects the distribution.

I noticed an improvement with my 31', which weighs 1140 pounds on the jack stand with a Sherline scale, but can't say that, or if it will stop your porpoising.
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:36 PM   #8
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SteveH did you calculate the difference between the tongue jack value and the ball coupler actual value? The difference may be 5-10%; IOW, the TW may barely touch 1,000-lbs. Depends on the distance between the items.

And how did you determine "stress"? The function of these bars is as springs. They can take nearly 4" of deflection.

I ask for two reasons:

1] A PP may someday be on my rig; and,

2] I wish to understand your experience more closely as our TW, TV & TT are similar in many respects.

My rule-of-thumb has been that if slightly over I'd rather have the more lightly-rated bars (given that FALR is reached).

Thanks

.
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:52 PM   #9
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Had to go back and look what I said, and "stressed" was probably not the best word to use, should have said really flexed.

No, I did not test or calculate the weight at the ball, but I did calculate that what I measured made sense with a stated tongue weight of 840, if I remember correctly, by Airstream for our trailer, and a shipping weight of 230 for the ProPride.

If the ProPride used trunion type bars, I would agree with you about needing lower weight bars, but as you know, it uses round tapered to flat bars, and they just flex a lot more for a given weight than trunions do. (In spite of what some retailers with an agenda say)

It is interesting to note that with the 1000 lb bars I got equal front fender height with my rig at 40 turns up from the bottom on the jacks. With the 1400 lb bars I got equal front fender height at the same 40 turns. Doesn't make sense, but that's the way it is, and it is better with the 1400's. If I had to describe the ride difference, I would just say less "flexy" in the rear of the truck, and a little more stable in the vertical plane.

And yes, I am sure the bars are 1400's, and the old ones are 1000's. The 1400's are about 1/8" larger diameter at the front, and take different sleeves.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:35 PM   #10
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Okay, the RA truck springs on mine (a 2500) are likely softer at 192k miles than your new one (I think we both have BILSTEIN shocks).

Vertical movement isn't a big concern to me, overall, as it would mainly mean re-packing the heaviest truck bed items forward of the RA (as I have it somewhat to convenience over strict guideline at present). And I don't yet have the TV or TT packed for travel as some items are still in storage, etc, that I've been behind in rectifying. While I am unlikely to use airbags as a spring crutch I will consult TIMBREN on their AEON hollow springs (the FA is already scheduled for bump stop replacement with that item) and try several combinations on the rear. An air-ride rear might be done if extra fuel tankage is finalized. This truck is within 40-lbs at all wheels, but the solo gross is already 7,940-lbs (GVWR 9000) with full-timer (homeowner) stuff aboard.

I've waited on doing another Scale Lash-Up Analysis as TT tires/wheels were to be replaced with larger. Same for a fancy set of spring equalizers, new springs and new shocks . . all of which together raises the ball coupler height. But with business slow and hurricane season upon us I guess I just need to make the current set-up best as can be. Time to move the hitch over to this TT and clean out the old TT plus the storage closet.

After this I'll bring it to TV tire loads versus pressure (RMA Guide to Weighing RV's; link elsewhere) and dial in TV tire pressure after seeing if there is any rise past 5% (1.5-hrs steady-state driving). If that level of fine detail doesn't satisfy me, then your (hopefully continued) experience is appreciated (again) as potential course of action.

Glad you brought this up. I'll be paying attention after lash-up during the TV tire pressure dial-in as I roll north on IH-37 after leaving the local CAT Scale.
Looks like that is about two weeks away.

.
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Old 06-06-2013, 05:53 PM   #11
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Remember team mates - on a ProPride you dial in the amount of tension you need to properly distribute the weight as verified via measurements and scales.

1400 pounders give you up to 1,400 pounds based on how high you raise the ProPrides jacks.

Doesn't get any better than a ProPride Hitch!!!
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Old 06-07-2013, 06:35 AM   #12
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Slowmover,

There are some significant differences in our tow vehicles beyond miles. Mine is a 4WD, and while my previous TV was also a 4WD, this one is different.

The '08 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD that this Dodge Ram replaced was IFS, and for all practical purposes drove and handled like a 2WD. So, the truck responded to weight the same way a 2WD would.

The '12 Ram is not IFS, has a hard axle in the front with coil springs, and a four link with panhard rod setup. For such a front axle and suspension, it really rides and handles pretty good, and especially since I did the work to it replacing the steering damper, shocks, and steering system stabilizer.

However, and finally getting to the point of this post, the handling of the truck with trailer does seem to be more critical of the proper weight distribution....much more so than the GMC. It's difficult for me to explain other than the "sweet spot" seems to be more narrow, and the 1400 lb. bars just do a better job. I would not have thought this to be the case, and actually thought the Ram would be less critical to WD adjustment, and I cannot explain why, but it is.
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:37 AM   #13
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I am currently waiting for my ProPride-1400 to arrive and this conversation, in addition to Sean's recommendations, are reassuring me that I got the right bar set-up.

Now, if the dadgum thing would ever get here...
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:59 AM   #14
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Thank you, SteveH, for those notes on differentiation. "Vertical movement" is what I'll be paying attention to. A "narrow-er window" is appreciated.

And another (possible) difference is that I will be up against TV GVWR in all respects. Maybe even TT GWR. The bars are worth my time in attention due to your change . . whatever our differences, still, TV and TT are similar enough in type, weight plus climate & terrain faced for it to be worth my while (as we both pay attention to others with similar rigs). I'm a year away from long distance travel, so I look forward to comparing notes as things go along.

Thanks again.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:10 PM   #15
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Not being an expert in this, when I ordered my trailer and decided on what I would buy as a TV, I then researched the optimum hitch right here on AirForums. This was in August of 2011. Oh, I talked to Sean when ordering my ProPride, he decided which bars were the right solution (1400's). After 20 months with my rig....I can't imagine being more pleased or feeling safer than I do (this after about 7 trips, a total of around 12,000 miles in all kinds of terrain). A couple of weeks ago at Alumapalooza I sat mesmerized listening to Andy Thomson from CanAm discuss tow vehicle/TT/hitch combinations. What I took away from his pitch convinced me to stick with my Infinity QX56 (AWD) and NOT buy a truck. A personal decision to be sure, since it seemed as if around 90 percent of my fellow Alumapaloozers were towing with a pick-up. I'll stay with 4 wheel independent suspension and a lower CG. It ain't broken so I ain't fixin' it!
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