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anniemaine · 11-07-2013, 07:29 AM

I know I read a similar thread, but I can't find it. I have only had the Propride hitch for a few weeks and have only unhitched a couple of other time.

I pulled into a site at a slight angle, but the weight distribution bars are at such an angle that the left (driver's side) bar is under the jack. So I can't lower the jack to unhitch. I must have looked like a crazy person (luckily the camp ground had few occupants) I drove around a number of times trying to get more of a straight shot into my site. That didn't work, even with a slight angle to the right into site, I had the same problem. Called Sean, he was very responsive and made a number of suggestions. Because distribution bars at left angle, turn TV wheels sharp right, pull forward a few inches. That didn't work. Put trailer brakes on manually from TV, sharp right turn a few inches, didn't work. Lower distribution bars (never got really loose when completely lowered), put down stabilizing jacks, chock trailer wheels, right turn. That did allow me to get jack JUST barely past the distribution bar.

Sean and I were texting all this (with pics). So didn't really have a conversation about what seems like a pretty big problem. I don't know if the hitch was improperly installed. When driving around all those times I did jump out of the car numerous times (definitely crazy) and the hitch did straighten out when going completely straight.

So have other people had this problem? Any other suggestions, other than Sean's, or any other comments. Thanks, Annie

HeadWest · 11-07-2013, 08:18 AM

Hi Annie,

I have had similar situations in the past. Normally I try to get the truck/trailer backed in as straight as possible, go a touch further then were I want to end up and then pull forward. This gets everything straightened back out with the Propride. Every so often I pull ahead against wheel chocks but that doesn't seem to help too much.

The other thing I'm finding is that even if I don't have complete clearance between the base of the jack and the weight bar, the jack will still power past it and just push the bar over a bit. I make sure to have the weight bars completely loosened. The jack does not sound like it is working any harder then it is picking up the tongue weight so I'm not too concerned about this.

Bottomline, I don't think this means the hitch is installed improperly but is a nuance of the design that you have to kind of work through sometimes when unhitching.

Hope this helps.

lsbrodsky · 11-07-2013, 08:25 AM

Have you tried pulling the pin on the foot of the jack,Remove the foot, lower the post and reattach the foot?
Larry

SteveH · 11-07-2013, 08:40 AM

Yes, one of the few limitations of the PP hitch is your rig needs to be somewhat straight inline to unhook, and hook up. Not perfectly straight, but somewhat.

dkottum · 11-07-2013, 09:03 AM

I think when we back in at an angle the tandem axle trailer tires get "twisted" sideways a bit and are trying to straighten, there by putting a sideways force on the hitch connection.

As the previous posters said, try to get the tires straight and the sideways force off the hitch connection by backing past your spot and pulling forward some, perhaps reseting the foot, or back in straight as you can. Then be sure to take the tongue weight off the receiver (watch for a slight movement at the connection or measure truck wheel wells before setting bars when you hook up) and loosen the w.d. bars to swing freely.

The ProPride is new to me as well and we absolutely love the towing ease it gives us. Hitching/unhitching can be a challenge until we learn to simply be sure the vertical (I use a small level to ensure hitch and receiver have the same angle) and horizontal angles are lined up.

Don't give up, keep developing your own method, and it soon becomes a matter of backing in, latching, and hooking up. Similar for unhooking. It's all about alignment so there is no twist in the connection.

dbj216 · 11-07-2013, 10:00 AM

I often unhitch and couple up at an angle, in both the vertical axis and the horizontal axis. I guess I'm not a "straight arrow".

I agree with Doug; loose, floppy bars are important. And finding the zone where your tongue weight is off the truck receiver is also important.

I probably have a 1/4 of slop in the new Propride ball and my trailer coupler. My trailer is old and worn. I have replaced the Atwood ball clamp shoe which reduced the slop to 1/4 of an inch. Since my rig is sloppy, I have less trouble unloading the tongue weight. I can clearly see the relative movement between the Propride hitch head and my trailer coupler. When that happens, then I know I have most of the binding load off the stinger and hitch head.

I might add that my Ford 2.5" receiver with reducer sleeve and with the Propride stringer inserted is very sloppy. I have bent the hitch pin a couple of times. This winter I will figure out something to reduce this slop. Currently I'm using a grade 8 bolt for a hitch pin. However all the slop does make hitching and unhitching easier for me.

The Propride anti sway hitch is well worth learning new techniques in hitching up. My Airstream never pulled better.

David

SteveSueMac · 11-07-2013, 10:35 AM

Do you have a "foot" on the bottom of your jack? I don't. I have the same angle challenges you mention but never to the point of not getting the jack down between the bars. If there were a foot on the jack, I'd have to take it off every time. I very rarely and lucky enough to get a straight shot in to a site.

If you don't have a foot on the jack, the rest of the comments here should help a lot. Good luck!

Ridgerunner3 · 11-07-2013, 06:24 PM

I had the same issue this week. I backed a little further and then pulled forward while making a small correction to truck trailer alignment. Jack post would then clear. First time event for me after many trips with the Propride.

anniemaine · 11-09-2013, 09:27 AM

Turns out I had a much bigger problem. The stinger on my truck had gotten bent. Talked to Sean and he said it was because the chains were over the distribution bars rather than between them. So I've had to order a new stinger which will come to my camp ground middle of next week. I'm going to start a new thread about this because with all the research on did on this hitch, I never ran across this problem. And I don't want other newbies like me to make the same mistake. Thanks for all your help, Annie

ROBERT CROSS · 11-09-2013, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anniemaine

Turns out I had a much bigger problem. The stinger on my truck had gotten bent. Talked to Sean and he said it was because the chains were over the distribution bars rather than between them. So I've had to order a new stinger which will come to my camp ground middle of next week. I'm going to start a new thread about this because with all the research on did on this hitch, I never ran across this problem. And I don't want other newbies like me to make the same mistake. Thanks for all your help, Annie

Bent stinger....WOW that must have been some force!!! Hard to visualize. Receiver yes...stinger OMG.

Same goes for the Hensley. You'll notice it in most photo's...

"IMPORTANT:
The routing for safety chains is between and under the spring bars."

It's mentioned and illustrated many times in the owners Manual.

It must be so in the PPP manual also?

Good luck

Bob

SteveSueMac · 11-09-2013, 01:01 PM

Yes, it's repeatedly highlighted in SHOUTING CAPS in the PP manual. It's hard to imagine the chains wouldn't bust before bending the solid stinger? Any folks with a PhD who could address that? Yikes! That has to be some significant force as exceptionally strong chains or weak steel?