Propride Hitch Mod to avoid Jack Post interference

[Ted S.]

I'm thinking I introduce a piece of hardware to allow for quick removal of the Spring Bar Link from the Spring Bar to swing it away so I can lower the Jack Post where it would otherwise hit the Spring Bar on those tight sites when you can't get totally straight. The hardware would be something like a quick release shackle with a pin such as the one manufactured by Smittybuilt.

http://www.ntwonline.com/QUICK-RELEA...TS-P14127.aspx

Comments? Anyone have another idea?

[SteveSueMac]

How often does that happen? I've had some tight ones but always seem able to move forward a few inches to straighten out the geometry - and my jack stand doesn't have a foot on it so if that's getting in your way, my recommendation would be to take the foot off and have it settle on a stand (I got a great aluminum one from someone here in the forums whose dad made them...).

Otherwise on the pin itself, it seems like that would work - I just wonder if it would affect the workings of the hitch while actually driving the rig.

Would recommend giving Sean a call on that plan for sure. Let us know what you hear! Good luck!

[2012FB]

Originally Posted by Ted S.

I'm thinking I introduce a piece of hardware to allow for quick removal of the Spring Bar Link from the Spring Bar to swing it away so I can lower the Jack Post where it would otherwise hit the Spring Bar on those tight sites when you can't get totally straight. The hardware would be something like a quick release shackle with a pin such as the one manufactured by Smittybuilt.

http://www.ntwonline.com/QUICK-RELEA...TS-P14127.aspx

Comments? Anyone have another idea?

I like the idea! In most cases I can back up a bit more, straighten out best I can, then I lock the trailer brakes with the brake control and pull forward. This will usually get it straight enough.

[twobikes]

"Lock the trailer brakes with the brake controller". BRILLIANT!!

[Rich Jenkins]

Originally Posted by 2012FB

I like the idea! In most cases I can back up a bit more, straighten out best I can, then I lock the trailer brakes with the brake control and pull forward. This will usually get it straight enough.

That is an excellent idea. Thanks.

[Ted S.]

Yes, locking the brakes is an excellent idea. The head of the hitch takes a bit of forward motion to straighten out, I'm assuming this pulls it straight real quick?

So I bought one of those aluminum cones, I'm going to remove my jack foot. Between that and the locking brake trick it's should greatly reduce my issue.

We tend to find tight spots, we like remote areas. I just want to be prepared as best I can.

[dkottum]

I quit using the attached jack foot long ago and carry a 4x6 chuck of wood to set under the jack.

It works best for us with the ProPride (or any hitch) to always back into a site, then pull forward a foot or so. This takes out the twist in the tires from backing and relieves sideways pressure on the hitch assembly for disconnecting, so it disengages easier. As stated, it also clears the w.d. bars away when the tongue jack is lowered.

[Arcticfox]

The idea of locking the trailer breaks is a good one....
In our case if I back in and the hitch head is not straight enough to allow the jack post to clear the WD bars. I would release the tension on the opposite WD and that will move the head over enough to clear the corresponding bar. I have used this method many many times and have never had it work.
Hope this help

Cheers
Doug

[silverlabs]

Agree with Arcticfox on this one. Loosen the opposite WD lack and head shifts out of the way in most all cases. I too have done this many, many times where the foot would not normally clear due to positioning after backing in and this has worked in all cases.

Chuck

[carl2591]

that is interesting way to take care of the issue. I usually loosen both jacks adn move if possible.. have not tried just one side.

I have one of the alum stands and one of the tire chocks which are the deal. just wish they would make more and use a better grade alum as the stuff they use is quite fragile it seems. mine cracked in middle of the support part on the tire chocks.

also when you screw your jack, i find 6 3/4 to 7" above base a good number.. have not taken to scales just gauging the ride. When we first got trailer i used 5" and the ride was a bit rough in truck, lot of bounce.

how do you adjust yours..??

[guskmg]

If the jack post gets in the way try using the Fastway automatic folding foot. What a great device. Never have to reach in the back of the TV and pick up block and lift it over the tailgate.
guskmg

[Rich Jenkins]

Originally Posted by carl2591

that is interesting way to take care of the issue. I usually loosen both jacks adn move if possible.. have not tried just one side.



I have one of the alum stands and one of the tire chocks which are the deal. just wish they would make more and use a better grade alum as the stuff they use is quite fragile it seems. mine cracked in middle of the support part on the tire chocks.



also when you screw your jack, i find 6 3/4 to 7" above base a good number.. have not taken to scales just gauging the ride. When we first got trailer i used 5" and the ride was a bit rough in truck, lot of bounce.



how do you adjust yours..??

I suspect it will vary a lot by trailer, but FWIW, I use 7" on my 30' '16 FC Rear Queen.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by carl2591

also when you screw your jack, i find 6 3/4 to 7" above base a good number.. have not taken to scales just gauging the ride. When we first got trailer i used 5" and the ride was a bit rough in truck, lot of bounce.



how do you adjust yours..??

Based on the CAT scales. I go to about 6" because it returns nearly 100% of what's lifted off the steer axle.

[Ted S.]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Based on the CAT scales. I go to about 6" because it returns nearly 100% of what's lifted off the steer axle.

That's my dream. I warped a stock hitch trying to transfer that much, just replaced it with a Torklift Superhitch, we'll see how it goes.

[2012FB]

6.5" 1,400 pound bars on 2,500 HD for 30' Bunk

[mojoe7009]

I just pull the pin on the foot when hitched up. It drops out as I retract the post. When unhooking I place the foot on a couple of 2 X 6's and lower the post until the foot slides in, replace the pin and and raise to unhook height. Foot is never above the bars this way. That's how Sean at ProPride told me to do it. Simple, works.

[Ted S.]

Originally Posted by 2012FB

6.5" 1,400 pound bars on 2,500 HD for 30' Bunk

I'm curious what 6.5" means?

I see that on a lot of Propride hitch threads. Is that the total distance you raise the jack? Where is the starting point? When I unhitch, my jacks are already up 3-4" -Thanks

[mojoe7009]

Originally Posted by Ted S.

I'm curious what 6.5" means?



I see that on a lot of Propride hitch threads. Is that the total distance you raise the jack? Where is the starting point? When I unhitch, my jacks are already up 3-4" -Thanks

That's the height to raise the WD jack pistons (located on either side of the tongue behind the propane tanks) as measured from the top of the frame.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

I just pull the pin on the foot when hitched up. It drops out as I retract the post. When unhooking I place the foot on a couple of 2 X 6's and lower the post until the foot slides in, replace the pin and and raise to unhook height. Foot is never above the bars this way. That's how Sean at ProPride told me to do it. Simple, works.

That's what I've been doing for a while. I needed a longer foot for my 25 and the 2500, but it was too long to leave on so I do what mojoe does.

Al

[Ted S.]

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

That's the height to raise the WD jack pistons (located on either side of the tongue behind the propane tanks) as measured from the top of the frame.

That's interesting since I understand every trailer will have a different starting point on the jack. My jacks are 3" extended with the trailer unhitched. I read the Propride instructions carefully and he is saying when unhitching, the jacks may not lower entirely, they may be slightly extended.

So I have been reading these threads very confused. My jacks are 3" up at no load, then 8" fully loaded when hitched and ready to go. So I jack 5", but my jacks are 8" off the frame.

So I think it would be good to note how much jack you apply. Not how high your jacks are above the frame.