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Old 11-09-2013, 10:48 AM   #1
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ProPride bent stinger.

With all the research I did, I never ran across this critical issue. So I'm posting this warning to other newbies. My stinger is significantly bent and slightly twisted. Sean says it is because the chains were over the distribution bars rather than "between" them (meaning under, an illustration would have been helpful). Those buying a ProPride hitch, be aware that your chains are on correctly. I'm currently at a camp ground, waiting for UPS to deliver my new stinger. Annie
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Old 11-09-2013, 11:21 AM   #2
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If the chains somehow were the culprit, I'm a bit surprised that a cha9n link didn't let go before doing that sort of damage.

Wonder if the same thing can happen with Hensley? If the chain position is what caused it, I would imagine so - never seen that before though.

Brian.
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Old 11-09-2013, 11:42 AM   #3
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Hmm. Did chains mark the pp anywhere? With the loads required to do that it would "leave a mark" on something.
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Old 11-09-2013, 11:45 AM   #4
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I would suggest checking out the receiver on the truck as well. There was a lot of force required to bend the metal...

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Old 11-09-2013, 11:46 AM   #5
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That much bend in the hitch bar also surprises me. I wouldn't have thought that the chains were strong enough to do that.

As far as this happening to a Hensley Arrow, it apparently can. The Hensley Manual has a quarter page CAUTION with pictures stating that the trailer safety chains MUST be routed between and under the spring bars.

Brian
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:19 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
That much bend in the hitch bar also surprises me. I wouldn't have thought that the chains were strong enough to do that.

As far as this happening to a Hensley Arrow, it apparently can. The Hensley Manual has a quarter page CAUTION with pictures stating that the trailer safety chains MUST be routed between and under the spring bars.

Brian
Good advice. I had forgotten that in the manual - if I ever read it!

I think that is what i do anyway, but will make sure from now on!

Brian.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anniemaine View Post
Sean says it is because the chains were over the distribution bars rather than "between" them
Are you sure you weren't backing up on a sharp, tight angle?
I think it would take more than just the chain to exert that much force.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:10 PM   #8
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Hello Everyone,

Yes, with both the 3P AND Arrow it is necessary to have the chains routed BETWEEN the hitch bars and under the main hitch head. If you attempt to turn, for example 7500# around a corner, and the main hitch head is not allowed to pivot on the links, something is going to bend or break.

Annie, I'm looking into putting the diagram you recommend into the instructions.

The current instructions are as follows…

Page 22 is titled "Hitching and Unhitching"

Step 9 in hitching is…

"Step 9: IMPORTANTIMPORTANTIMPORTANT – Route your tow chains UNDER the Main Hitch Unit and BETWEEN where the Spring Bars insert in the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit. When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit."


(No emphasis that is not in the instructions has been added here. The bolding is also in the instructions.)
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:14 PM   #9
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Annie,
Glad you are safe. Thanks for the heads up and I'm sure you and Sean are looking into all possible reasons why.
I will say we all wait and let Sean finish his findings on this situation, that way we don't jump into conclusion too fast. I have never seen such in my years of towing other than load test and other experiment/s in the lab and heavy duty machinery trade shows. PP is always upfront and very demanding of his suppliers when it comes to product specs and integrity.
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Old 11-09-2013, 05:36 PM   #10
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Just a little data.

Here are the hitch bar stresses with 2000# of tongue weight and 1000# of spring bar weight distribution.

As you'll see the bar does not come close to being overstressed even with 2000# of tongue weight.

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Old 11-09-2013, 06:37 PM   #11
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When I had my instructions from the dealer, I own a Hensley, I was told to always make sure that the chains are routed correctly, i.e as described above, otherwise this kind if damage could happen.

Hope that everything is going to turn out ok and the TV part of the hitch not damaged. I'll make double sure to check my chains in future.
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Old 11-09-2013, 06:54 PM   #12
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Here's the setup on my 2012 Flying Cloud. Note that the chains share a single "point of origin" on the a-frame. I mention that because people say you're supposed to "cross" the chains under the a-frame so the one on the left connects to the right side of your TV and vice versa. That's not possible with this configuration. However, they do go underneath and between the WD bars. That's how I interpreted the instructions and I'm assuming this is correct as I've had a full year of travel this way and no problems.

If this is accurate, feel free to use this as an illustration, Sean. If not, I'm ready for some education too!


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Old 11-09-2013, 07:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Here's the setup on my 2012 Flying Cloud. Note that the chains share a single "point of origin" on the a-frame. I mention that because people say you're supposed to "cross" the chains under the a-frame so the one on the left connects to the right side of your TV and vice versa. That's not possible with this configuration. However, they do go underneath and between the WD bars. That's how I interpreted the instructions and I'm assuming this is correct as I've had a full year of travel this way and no problems.

If this is accurate, feel free to use this as an illustration, Sean. If not, I'm ready for some education too!


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Old 11-09-2013, 08:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I would suggest checking out the receiver on the truck as well. There was a lot of force required to bend the metal...

Stuart
Annie,

That photo is quite startling to say the least. It's hard to believe that the tension/binding wasn't noticeable when turning/backing.

Is there any deformation or damage to the chains?

Inspect your receiver very carefully, be prepared to change it if there is any question of it's integrity.
Make SURE the mount bolts are intact.
If it was mine I would change the bolts & chains right off the bat, just to be on the safe side.

Bob
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