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Old 07-06-2016, 04:46 PM   #1
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ProPride 3P & Hensley Arrow Experts

Just wanted to ask the ProPride and Hensley experts out there for a little help in learning how to use these awesome hitches! Installed a ProPride 3P last Saturday and on the 80 mile trip home did pretty well. It does feel different in what I am use to, just need to use it more, which I am this Saturday. I did experence the "Hensley Bump". I read that this is caused by the TV slowing down faster than the TT and the links slam to one side. I have read that others have experienced this and they all say " I adjusted my brake controller and the problem went away" I would like to know what they mean by adjust? I have the Prodigy P3 and I already have it on Boost 3 because my TT is about 2k lbs heavier than my Nissan Titan. I've read where people adjust it down to Boost 2, but would that really help?
Also would like to know how long it takes to get use to the TT tracking tighter to the inside of turns? Did not really notice this until I turned into my drive way which is a 90 degree turn off a state hwy. Thought I had turned wide enough but all of a sudden the wife about releaved her self when she thought the TT was going to turn over. I don't have a drive way pipe and the TT turned tighter than I thought and it slightly went down a small hill beside the drive way. All was well and it came right out, but let's just say I added many large rocks for a foundation and put down 2 tons of gravel yesterday so that can't happen again. Sorry for the long post, just would love to hear from someone who has been towing with one of these hitches for a while and any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:03 PM   #2
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We have never had a Hensley bump. I know of two adjustments to help.

Set the brake controller not by number, but by feel. I like to start out each day with a fresh adjustment. Starting out with engine barely above idle so the truck/trailer is just moving (on level ground) set the controller so squeezing the controller lever slows the rig to near a stop, maybe a little more. At the next stop for fuel or whatever, set it again as things can change when the brakes are warmed up.

When adjusting the hitch, put enough washers in the head tilt rivet so after w.d. is set, the bars should still be tilted down toward the back. This will resist the hitch moving forward on its own, causing a Hensley bump, as well as improve stability in turns. This tip comes from Andrew Thomson at Can-Am RV in Ontario. When they are not able to get enough downward tilt on the bars by adding washers, they will put a bend in the Hensley/ProPride stinger to accomplish it.
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:11 PM   #3
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I like my trailer brakes set just a bit short of locking up.

If they are set that way you will never get "the bump".




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Old 07-06-2016, 05:22 PM   #4
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Raise the number on the dial. a couple higher. The boost controls how fast the voltage rises when you hit the brake pedal. The number controls how hard it stays on.


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Old 07-06-2016, 05:26 PM   #5
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Does the Propride get the bump same as the Hensley? I have had a hard bump during heavy breaking, but I thought it was from my truck downshifting hard in tow mode.
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Old 07-06-2016, 07:59 PM   #6
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baby,

On the brake controller, try the following. May sound strange but this is from Andy T at CanAm and is how he sets up the vast majority of his AS's. Its also the setting I have used myself for the last 12 months or so with my P3.

Set the gain to max. Boost to off.

Max gain ensures that the maximum braking force of the AS brakes are available if needed. You modulate the braking of the TV and AS using the brakes in the TV - same as you do every day driving down the road in your TV.

My personal preference is to use Boost 1 on the freeway - ensures the AS is taking its fair share of braking duties with a light push on the TV brakes. At low speeds I switch all boost off. This ensures smooth progress rolling around the campsite or town without the AS brakes grabbing. For the record my TV is about 6200 lbs loaded for camping and my AS pretty close to the max at around 7500 lbs. I do not have any bump with this setup even without boost at lower speeds.

On the tighter turns I have not really noticed any difference.

Stick with the PP. Whatever learning curve you have will be very much worthwhile.
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Old 07-07-2016, 05:37 AM   #7
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Gain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
baby,

On the brake controller, try the following. May sound strange but this is from Andy T at CanAm and is how he sets up the vast majority of his AS's. Its also the setting I have used myself for the last 12 months or so with my P3.

Set the gain to max. Boost to off.

Max gain ensures that the maximum braking force of the AS brakes are available if needed. You modulate the braking of the TV and AS using the brakes in the TV - same as you do every day driving down the road in your TV.

My personal preference is to use Boost 1 on the freeway - ensures the AS is taking its fair share of braking duties with a light push on the TV brakes. At low speeds I switch all boost off. This ensures smooth progress rolling around the campsite or town without the AS brakes grabbing. For the record my TV is about 6200 lbs loaded for camping and my AS pretty close to the max at around 7500 lbs. I do not have any bump with this setup even without boost at lower speeds.

On the tighter turns I have not really noticed any difference.

Stick with the PP. Whatever learning curve you have will be very much worthwhile.
when you say "gain" do you mean the power buttons to max?
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Old 07-07-2016, 10:19 AM   #8
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Stinger adjustment

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We have never had a Hensley bump. I know of two adjustments to help.

Set the brake controller not by number, but by feel. I like to start out each day with a fresh adjustment. Starting out with engine barely above idle so the truck/trailer is just moving (on level ground) set the controller so squeezing the controller lever slows the rig to near a stop, maybe a little more. At the next stop for fuel or whatever, set it again as things can change when the brakes are warmed up.

When adjusting the hitch, put enough washers in the head tilt rivet so after w.d. is set, the bars should still be tilted down toward the back. This will resist the hitch moving forward on its own, causing a Hensley bump, as well as improve stability in turns. This tip comes from Andrew Thomson at Can-Am RV in Ontario. When they are not able to get enough downward tilt on the bars by adding washers, they will put a bend in the Hensley/ProPride stinger to accomplish it.
So you are saying adjust the washers so the stinger will be tilting slightly down?
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Old 07-07-2016, 11:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baby View Post
So you are saying adjust the washers so the stinger will be tilting slightly down?
Yes.
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baby View Post
when you say "gain" do you mean the power buttons to max?
Yes, sorry, the power button. It goes from 0 to 15. Button A in the manual.

by the way - dkottum's advice on the washers is spot on - I squeezed 6 in there. Allows you to get some solid weight transfer as you apply WD.
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:10 AM   #11
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Just started assembling the stinger. With the loose bolts the angle of the stinger is like this. There is a space for probably 2 additional washers on the tilt pin. However, wouldn't be this angle too much down?





Two washers on the tilt pin would give me the stinger leveled (and this is what the ProPride manual suggests). Four washers would give me a slight tilt down. However, I am worrying that the stinger would be tilting down due to the down force / tongue weight. I understand that the bolts needs to be torqued down pretty tight, but would this prevent tilting down?
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:23 AM   #12
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Once I established the required angle and torqued the bolts to specifications, no movement, over at least 6,000 miles of fairly rough highway towing.

Don't trust my memory, but I think this is where I used the 250 foot-pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight and all my weight on the handle to click it to full torque. I was careful to have clean mating surfaces and bolts to get the right reading.

That was really the hardest part of my install.


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Old 07-11-2016, 08:24 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bono View Post
Just started assembling the stinger. With the loose bolts the angle of the stinger is like this. There is a space for probably 2 additional washers on the tilt pin. However, wouldn't be this angle too much down?





Two washers on the tilt pin would give me the stinger leveled (and this is what the ProPride manual suggests). Four washers would give me a slight tilt down. However, I am worrying that the stinger would be tilting down due to the down force / tongue weight. I understand that the bolts needs to be torqued down pretty tight, but would this prevent tilting down?
Perhaps, but it depends on how much receiver slop has to be taken up when WD is applied. You will have to experiment with that. There should be a slight to moderate downward tilt AFTER WD is applied. Also as miles accumulate on the hitch, you will find some mushrooming of the washer pin and its corresponding contact point on the hitch bar, necessitating adding a washer. I have to used all the washers that will fit and it is a tight operation to get the bolts in with my stack. But it's just right after all has worn in.
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:39 PM   #14
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Thanks Guys! Sean kindly confirmed that with my setup (SUV / large trailer) I should use as many washers on the tilt pin as possible. So this stinger angle should work.

thanks!
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