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Old 07-26-2016, 05:11 AM   #15
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Thank you everyone!

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice on the Hensley bump. On our first trip I adjusted the brake controller and felt no bump during the 300 mile round trip with a combination of highway and 2 lane road driving. Another couple of questions if I may. I was getting a groan sometimes in turns which concerned me because I bought the Propride hitch used. When we got to our camping spot I did notice that the hitch did not want to turn as much one direction as it did the other ( would turn easier and further to the left than to the right.) I kept moving the head by using the over center links back and forth, now it seems to turn the same amount both directions, maybe a little easier to the left but not much. What I was wondering is can you change the bearings in the Propride head? The tongue weight along with the weight of the Propride approaches my max tongue weight of 950 lbs, so my Nissan Titan really sags down, even after I adjust the weight distribution, adjusted the stinger a little higher and tilted it down slightly with the stop washers, and I also have the Roadmaster active suspension torsion springs ( which I will be putting on the classifieds today ). I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:21 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by baby View Post
I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?
To clarify a couple points first...its important to understand what air bags are for vs auto level systems. In this case, air bags are inflated to their max PSI, the load is added, then you adjust PSI if needed for ride comfort or height.

For Hensley/Propride PP hitches, its not so critical to have the vehicle level as it is other WDH systems. If you are tapped out, you likely have enough weight re-applied to the front end not to worry at all. A little rear sag is fine, but I too, would also add air bags just to level out.

You dont need to worry about the timing of when you apply tension on the bars/jacks. Just have the bags inflated to their max when hooking up and see how you come out with everything connected. If your too high in the rear, simply reduce PSI until you are content.

DO NOT reduce tension on the bars if by chance the air bags raise you too high. Good weight distribution is primary. Air bags are secondary.
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Old 07-29-2016, 06:37 PM   #17
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Groaning.....

baby,

The groaning noise you describe could be coming from a few sources (other than the bearings) - see below. If the PP was bought used it may have been sitting for a while and just need a bit of TLC. The bearings are sealed and I have not heard of anyone having to replace them over on the unofficial pp thread here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-57179.html. A few things to try below.

1 - The WD bars should be greased via the zerk (small brass nipple, one either side of the head) about every 1000 miles. Use a grease gun and hose - the hose will connect to the zerk. Push grease in until you see a decent amount of fresh grease ooze out around the bottom of the head/WD bar housing.

2 - The ball should be greased - about once a year should do it. The head does not move too much but it gets some side to side and a bit of fore and aft movement as you drive along. See this post and further comments there - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1816171

3 - The small silver "U" bolts between the WD jack vertical straps and the end of the WD bar can also make some noise, particularly in turns. As the head turns the strap is either pulled forward or pushed back. There is a huge amount of load here and if the connection is "dry" it can make some noise. A small amount of grease (or spray oil in a pinch) applied here should work. Lubricate without WD applied - work grease into the gap between the U bolt and strap by moving the strap and bar around.

4 - Last but not least, if you have quite a bit of slop between the PP stinger (vehicle side) and your receiver you may get some noises, particularly in turns at lower speeds. Some shims/oil here should solve that. See here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ml#post1673194
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Old 07-29-2016, 07:26 PM   #18
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"I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?"

Baby,

Why the bags?...they do nothing but raise the rear of the TV, they do nothing to improve towing or increase payload.

If you transfer the proper amount of weight with your WD bars your TV should be very close to level if you have the proper drop stinger to keep the trailer level.

Bob
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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:37 PM   #19
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I have to add my two cents about Sean and ProPride. I have been a businessman for over 30 years. I've signed the front of many more paychecks than the back, so I'm fairly knowledgeable about business, customer service, etc. I have to say that if Sean is not at the top of the class in terms of customer service, it sure doesn't take long to call the roll. He is responsive, helpful, clear, and, well, just the best resource one could want. His product - the ProPride - is also superb, and the combination of Sean and the product is unbeatable. I can't recommend both highly enough. Thanks Sean and ProPride - I'm grateful for all you've done for me.
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Old 08-07-2016, 06:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RinconVTR View Post
>> snip>> For Hensley/Propride PP hitches, its not so critical to have the vehicle level as it is other WDH systems <<snip<<
I have to disagree. It is very important that the trailer is level, that the tongue neither low nor high.
If the tongue is low the front axle is carrying more weight than the rear. If the tongue is high, the rear axle is carrying more load.
Only with single axle trailers is it OK for the trailer to be slightly out of level.
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Old 08-07-2016, 07:00 PM   #21
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Exactly. And especially with the independent torsion axles that don't spread the load a bit like leaf spring systems.


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Old 08-07-2016, 07:59 PM   #22
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2015 30' Bunk

1400 pound bars

Put flats on the head of two pins with file.

Slight Tilt (three washers).

Used various washers on both now flat head pins to lock the head tight with bolts installed on the tight side. Absolutely no way for the stinger head to ever move.

Put nice bevels on the 4 leading edges of the stinger with disk grinder.

Bars pulled up to 6.5" from base to bottom of draw tube.

Bars still slightly angled down.


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Old 08-08-2016, 11:43 AM   #23
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It took a few adjustments for the number of tilt washers. This sets the "preloaded angle where the WD load begins to apply pressure.

Adjust to closest height hole on stinger/hitch bar. bow high, never lower than level.

I tilted mine so the WD bars are level to the ground..when loaded up. .presuming the Airstream is traveling a tad now high, never low.

This is all done, according to Sean's instructions,,,, but... You MUST have full load on both TV and Airstream to ensure load, weight distribution and Airstream tow attitude are properly set.

The "bump" occurs when decelerating or stopping. the ProPride or Hensley are not "pulling" as when underway because the trailer brakes are set too light...the trailer tongue moves to one side or the other ... Then it hits the angle stop and bumps.

The "sideways movement" can be caused by road tilt, balance street to curb side loading... Most likely is side to side braking is not Balanced. One item few discuss which can impact tow and stop is that the trailer is not "trimmed" where the centerline of the hitch ball is centered between lines parallel to the wheels.. This would give the best "tow" handling... Much of this is resolved with the Hensley and ProPride hitches.

As for turns, start as wide as possible, wait until the front of TV is as far forward as possible, then when barely creeping forward, crank "hard over" in direction of turn and follow the far outside of the turn line with the TV... The trailer will swing as wide as you can manage. To roll in too fast and slowly crank the wheel will cause the trailer to turn more "inside"....
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Old 08-08-2016, 11:59 AM   #24
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Running bow high

Here we are, running true
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