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Old 07-27-2015, 06:15 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by featherbedder View Post
If you can find clevis with screw in pin proper size simply hook length of chain needed, do not use hammer together loops as they will come apart. A clevis is u shaped with bolt that slips thru eye one side, threads into other eye

Also referred to as a shackle. I would use a properly rated safety Clevis/Shackle that utilizes a threaded bolt and cotter pin.
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Old 07-27-2015, 06:24 AM   #42
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I prefer a double clevis link like this:

National Hardware 3248BC 1/2 Double Clevis Link, Zinc | TractorSupply

Properly rated for your chain, of course, for adding length to your chains.
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:07 AM   #43
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Smile safety chains

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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
I prefer a double clevis link like this:

National Hardware 3248BC 1/2 Double Clevis Link, Zinc | TractorSupply

Properly rated for your chain, of course, for adding length to your chains.
Better than single clevis. Brain fade this am forgot about dble. I have used many times.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:04 PM   #44
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I think a double clevis link is the best option for extending a chain.. You will need to match or exceed the chain strength and size to fit the chains on your trailer

WP161106 Double Clevis Link - Grainger Industrial Supply

JCW
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:49 PM   #45
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Twist and cross under the hitch head
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:15 PM   #46
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ProPride sells an extension kit with their hitches that includes a set of double Clevis connectors and two lengths of appropriate chain.

Try calling Sean about getting one.


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Old 07-28-2015, 02:29 PM   #47
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Angry safety chains

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Twist and cross under the hitch head
Do not twist chains as makes a weak spot [links] to break.
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Old 07-28-2015, 04:38 PM   #48
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Twisting them is the proper way to make them short enough to not drag the ground. A slight twist can't possibly affect the strength of the steel.


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Old 07-28-2015, 04:48 PM   #49
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Twisting them is the proper way to make them short enough to not drag the ground. A slight twist can't possibly affect the strength of the steel.


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I don't know for sure, but this chain manufacturer disagrees with you.

http://www.lacledechain.com/blog/ent...in-quick-facts
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Old 08-14-2015, 08:51 PM   #50
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After reading this post, I will no longer twist the chains.
I decided the "key rings" on the chains are to take up slack, just as a "zip strip"/cable tie would do. They also make a product called a chain keeper to take up slack.
I learned incorrectly to twist the chains. I relearned correctly how to take up slack-
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:34 PM   #51
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Take a good look at the loop welded to the frame of the Airstream to which the chains are attached. Does not look like it could hold a run away trailer on the highway, looks like it is strong enought to control the trailer if it rolls away at the campground before you have the wheels chocked but not much more.
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:46 PM   #52
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Good point!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted S. View Post
Take a good look at the loop welded to the frame of the Airstream to which the chains are attached. Does not look like it could hold a run away trailer on the highway, looks like it is strong enought to control the trailer if it rolls away at the campground before you have the wheels chocked but not much more.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:29 AM   #53
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Quote:
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Take a good look at the loop welded to the frame of the Airstream to which the chains are attached. Does not look like it could hold a run away trailer on the highway, looks like it is strong enought to control the trailer if it rolls away at the campground before you have the wheels chocked but not much more.
All the chains have to do is keep the trailer relatively close to the tow vehicle so the electrical connection stays in, so you can hit the brakes and have it stop. They're plenty strong enough for that purpose.
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Old 10-25-2015, 08:40 PM   #54
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Just a thought on the twisting issue, I agree it may weaken the chain(not sure how much) but couldn't you have a higher rated chain (12,000 lbs) used on your 7,000 lb TT and be safe even if you twist it? I had a TT not properly seated on the hitch ball disconnect and my twisted chains held (my jack wasn't happy though). Fortunately I was only going 40 mph, but I learned to check hitch ball seating for sure. I'm buying new chains for my AS since the ones on it are "1980s era" and thought that heavier chains would be in order since I planned on twisting them to adjust the length.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:08 AM   #55
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Camping World also sells a rubber thing that you slide over the ball and has two slots for taking up excess chain. Works quite well.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:32 AM   #56
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Look at post #50.
Airstream put wire "key rings" to take up slack.
You may already have a drawer with key rings in it.
If not, they can be purchased at a locksmith shop for $1 each or less.
Why did it take me 3 years to notice the key rings and use them?
Maybe this thread caused me to realize the key rings were there, what their purpose was, and to use them.
Works great.


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