Parkit 360 power dolly

[Silvertwinkie]

I finally broke down and picked one of these bad boys up last year:

P360XL 11000lbs-4989kgs

It's not an inexpensive tool-- by any means, but one that really can make getting the RV in and out of tight spots a breeze compared to navigating an 18' tow vehicle to do the same task.

My main need for this was getting the trailer in and out of storage, which was extremely tight (read a few inches of clearance on either side of the trailer-- if that much). My reasoning was, the cost of this unit would be very small in comparison to body damage on my Safari, along with the high probability of damage given the extreme tight entry door with each entry and exit needing to be perfect each time all while trying to assess the back of the trailer from some 35' from the driver's seat of the SUV with a slight grade involved.

This particular unit is far more than I currently need however, like the AirSafe hitch, I purchased a unit based on any possible future upgrades in trailer size, which would translate into more weight, opting to do this once vs two times.

The way I have mine configured is that it connects to the front batteries on the trailer, which means no additional battery or battery case is needed to power the dolly. You can get a battery case and such if needed, but since the trailer has two up front, I figured why not just use them instead. Works great!

The seven pin connector, connects directly to the unit and I have the ability to activate the trailer brakes while using this power dolly, which has been a really great thing to have on any type of grade!! This was an upgrade (read additional cost).

There are two issues though:

One is that the ball doesn't seat very well sometimes and I found that placing a paper towel over the ball before putting the tongue on it makes the connection a lot more rigid and less tiring to navigate the nearly 800+lb hitch weight around-- even though I've tightened it as they describe in their instructions.

Second is the tires. They tend to get in the way of the "A" frame when making more pronounced turns and it seems this recent accessory would solve that problem, but that is another $420:

EZ Connect by Parkit360

Though the second problem basically limits the turning radius of the trailer and I suspect a taller ball support might also solve this problem, the linked accessory might also make both issues go away completely....but by then you're talking a nearly $2k solution, though less costly than skin replacement, it's not a tool the average guy buys, but we all need our toys I suspect.

For those of you in the market for a power hitch, I have found this one very well built and a very useful tool to have, particularly if you are moving your trailer in some very tight spots. I find I can fairly easily move the trailer into positions where a tow vehicle may have been far more difficult or nearly impossible.

The cost however is VERY steep for the privilege of having this maneuverability, but after looking at what was out there, I simply decided to go with this brand/model and it has performed as expected. Not sure I'll plunk down another $420 for the accessory, but will continue to evaluate the usefulness of the power dolly and maybe if I win the lottery, pick it up.

[Mixter]

Thanks for the feedback. I also own one of these, but have not used it for the AS, since it is stationary during my reno.

I've also been looking at that EZ Connect, but $420 is a chunk for that thing. The original ball connectivity is a bit cumbersome on my boat, and I've also wondered about the maneuverability on the AS, as you describe.

Have you looked at this? Upgrades & Accessories : Telescopic Hitch Adapter

This seems like it could offer a bit of versatility, assuming I have a place to mount it with everything that might be in the way on the A frame....

Let me know what you think, ultimately what you decide and how it works out for you.

Thanks!
Mic

[Silvertwinkie]

Hey Mic.

Yes, I did consider that, but felt that having that on one of the "A" frame sections may make maneuverability seem awkward compared to being centrally located a the hitch jack point. Plus, that bad boy is about $118 for basically some clamp type systtem and a tube. In the end, thankfully I don't need a jackknife type move, and for the $$ for now, I can simply make several moves rather than one big one for the time being.

It really is a great unit, pricey, but good. I think you'll be pleased when you see how great it moves the trailer. No land speed records, but great nonetheless.

[Airrogant]

Putting that kind of weight on a ball separated by two tires less than two-feet apart sounds like a recipe for disaster. Under the wrong conditions the mover could tip over and be violently twisted out from under the tongue and spit out like a watermelon seed. I can't imagine what might happen to the poor soul holding the handle.

After researching what was currently available on the market, I chose to eliminate all of the ball-mounted movers from my search specifically for this reason. I believe a rigidly bolted connection between the mover and the trailer produces a safer solution.

I'm not saying that I would kick the ParkIt360 out of bed for eating crackers though. It looks like a very well-built unit. I wouldn't buy one, but if I already had one that demonstrated proven performance, I don't think I would look to upgrade to a unit with a bolted interface.

Nevertheless, I do agree that powered trailer dollies are the cats-meow. Yours looks like a serious work-horse.

[murreywalker]

I'm currently considering this option.

And have talked at length with one of the manufacturers.

My concern is that I've got a crushed and compacted rock drive that this dolly would have to move over, combined with a bit of terrain change. While the space is mostly level, there is a drainage depression that I would have to negotiate to turn the trailer the ninety degrees that I need.

The Parkit suggests in copy and photos, that it works on different types of surfaces.

Any thoughts??

[Mixter]

I know they offer an off-road tire option, but I cannot speak for the traction, as mine is on level concrete. However, the power/ torque is certainly enough.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Originally Posted by Airrogant

Putting that kind of weight on a ball separated by two tires less than two-feet apart sounds like a recipe for disaster. Under the wrong conditions the mover could tip over and be violently twisted out from under the tongue and spit out like a watermelon seed. I can't imagine what might happen to the poor soul holding the handle.

After researching what was currently available on the market, I chose to eliminate all of the ball-mounted movers from my search specifically for this reason. I believe a rigidly bolted connection between the mover and the trailer produces a safer solution.

I'm not saying that I would kick the ParkIt360 out of bed for eating crackers though. It looks like a very well-built unit. I wouldn't buy one, but if I already had one that demonstrated proven performance, I don't think I would look to upgrade to a unit with a bolted interface.

Nevertheless, I do agree that powered trailer dollies are the cats-meow. Yours looks like a serious work-horse.

Hi, for these reasons, I chose the PowerMover. Disadvantages are that you have to move the pivot from trailer to trailer if you are moving more than one or have a trailer repair business. I also connected the 12 volt and brake control to feed through the seven pin connector instead of with alligator clips o my battery.
.

[Airrogant]

Originally Posted by murreywalker

I've got a crushed and compacted rock drive that this dolly would have to move over, combined with a bit of terrain change. While the space is mostly level, there is a drainage depression that I would have to negotiate to turn the trailer the ninety degrees that I need.

This sounds to me like a worst-case scenario for a ball-mounted powered dolly. I wouldn't consider a ParkIt360 for your application.

[Mixter]

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, for these reasons, I chose the PowerMover. Disadvantages are that you have to move the pivot from trailer to trailer if you are moving more than one or have a trailer repair business. I also connected the 12 volt and brake control to feed through the seven pin connector instead of with alligator clips o my battery.
.

Pretty sweet.... What size are those tires/ wheels on that powermover? It doesnt look as massive as they do on their website, which was one of the things that discouraged me, in that where was I going to store it?

I see now, they just use a bunch of smaller wheels- not necessarily huge ones.

BUT.... every dolly, mower, bike, wheelbarrow, etc in my garage loses air over time. How the heck do you fill those inner 3 tires if they are low? Do you have to disassemble the whole axle?

[murreywalker]

Originally Posted by Airrogant

This sounds to me like a worst-case scenario for a ball-mounted powered dolly. I wouldn't consider a ParkIt360 for your application.

Thanks, and I agree.

After studying the photos that Robert just posted, and Powermover IS the company I visited, I believe theirs' is probably the best option for me.

Interesting enough, until I actually saw Robert's pivot point actually installed and working, I was having difficulty visualizing just how the PM would accomplish my objective.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, Mixter; There are valve stem extensions going through the wheels. There are two valves on one side and three on the other. No disassembly needed to air up the tires.

[Cmjmoore]

I have looked at those but it seems like it is a bad design and they are asking for another $420 to correct the problem. Seems like everything with them is an add on. I think I am going with the other company.

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

I finally broke down and picked one of these bad boys up last year:

P360XL 11000lbs-4989kgs

It's not an inexpensive tool-- by any means, but one that really can make getting the RV in and out of tight spots a breeze compared to navigating an 18' tow vehicle to do the same task.

My main need for this was getting the trailer in and out of storage, which was extremely tight (read a few inches of clearance on either side of the trailer-- if that much). My reasoning was, the cost of this unit would be very small in comparison to body damage on my Safari, along with the high probability of damage given the extreme tight entry door with each entry and exit needing to be perfect each time all while trying to assess the back of the trailer from some 35' from the driver's seat of the SUV with a slight grade involved.

This particular unit is far more than I currently need however, like the AirSafe hitch, I purchased a unit based on any possible future upgrades in trailer size, which would translate into more weight, opting to do this once vs two times.

The way I have mine configured is that it connects to the front batteries on the trailer, which means no additional battery or battery case is needed to power the dolly. You can get a battery case and such if needed, but since the trailer has two up front, I figured why not just use them instead. Works great!

The seven pin connector, connects directly to the unit and I have the ability to activate the trailer brakes while using this power dolly, which has been a really great thing to have on any type of grade!! This was an upgrade (read additional cost).

There are two issues though:

One is that the ball doesn't seat very well sometimes and I found that placing a paper towel over the ball before putting the tongue on it makes the connection a lot more rigid and less tiring to navigate the nearly 800+lb hitch weight around-- even though I've tightened it as they describe in their instructions.

Second is the tires. They tend to get in the way of the "A" frame when making more pronounced turns and it seems this recent accessory would solve that problem, but that is another $420:

EZ Connect by Parkit360

Though the second problem basically limits the turning radius of the trailer and I suspect a taller ball support might also solve this problem, the linked accessory might also make both issues go away completely....but by then you're talking a nearly $2k solution, though less costly than skin replacement, it's not a tool the average guy buys, but we all need our toys I suspect.

For those of you in the market for a power hitch, I have found this one very well built and a very useful tool to have, particularly if you are moving your trailer in some very tight spots. I find I can fairly easily move the trailer into positions where a tow vehicle may have been far more difficult or nearly impossible.

The cost however is VERY steep for the privilege of having this maneuverability, but after looking at what was out there, I simply decided to go with this brand/model and it has performed as expected. Not sure I'll plunk down another $420 for the accessory, but will continue to evaluate the usefulness of the power dolly and maybe if I win the lottery, pick it up.

[BAB]

I have a Powermover and used it for about a year. The main issue for me was having a ProPride hitch. My main motivation was having to back my trailer (8.5' wide) into a structure I had built for it that has only 11' between beams. Unfortunately, my lot had no give in it! My experience with the Powermover was generally positive, and if you have a really level space, so much the better. I do not think I could use it with my new Classic (weight), and the incline. Besides, I am now an accomplished "backer-upper" and do fine without it. I would really worry about much braking with it. It has a set-up that activates your trailer brakes using the 7pin connector. Either the brakes are "full-on" or "full-off"....no modulation. I found this pretty scary.

[cactusjk]

What is the run time for the 360 if using its own battery and if using TT batteries?

[Mixter]

I dont know.... they arent really used at any significant length of time. i.e. its not like a trolling motor on a boat that you'd be pulling from for several hours while you fish. If it draws 10 amps (wild guess), from a 120 ah battery, then it would last 12 hours.... and even if it pulls 20 amps, it would last 6 hours.

Of course there is more to it when talking about "useful" amp hours, but the point is that even if it could only operate for 1 hour of "continuous" use, if you use it to move your trailer for a few minutes at a time, then the draw is really insignificant.

[Mixter]

I dont know if I missed a decimal point on my ah calcs, but I still think the draw is insignificant for its intended use.

[cactusjk]

I called Parkit and they recommended against the EZ connect for larger trailers. We have a FC 23D. I guess I am struggling with how cumbersome it looks to attach to the ball and without the EZ connect the tires limiting the turning radius. Also sounds like 5 minutes run/5 minutes off duty cycle. Overall a much less expensive way to go than Airtug but do you sacrifice too much? Any recent feedback on Parkit 360 for Airstreams would be greatly appreciated!

[dhroberts]

Silvertwinkie, thanks for your post. I just got the same Parkit360 model (no battery included) for my new Airstream Classic (30'). FYI, I have a ProPride anti-sway hitch installed - so I am having a customized 2" coupler adapter built - hopefully the problem with the wheels getting in the way won't be an issue.

I plan to use the trailer's tongue-based batteries to power the dollie. My trailer's battery system is a two battery set whereby the two batteries are connected to one another.

Question: Do you have any special advice regarding which or two batteries' terminal posts I should be connecting the Parkit360's two battery clips to?

Thank you.

[rocco52]

I just ordered a Parkit360 Force 10K after I found out they would ship it with a taller ball mount free of charge. This would eliminate the tire interference issue for me. All you have to do is ask them when you order.

[dhroberts]

Originally Posted by cactusjk

What is the run time for the 360 if using its own battery and if using TT batteries?

The vendor says run time is approximately 5 minutes - the reason being possible electric motor and wire overheating. For me, 5 minutes has usually been sufficient. If more than 5 minutes is required, just let the electric motor cool down and then continue use.