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Old 01-15-2016, 12:39 PM   #15
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1976 27' Overlander
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I dont know.... they arent really used at any significant length of time. i.e. its not like a trolling motor on a boat that you'd be pulling from for several hours while you fish. If it draws 10 amps (wild guess), from a 120 ah battery, then it would last 12 hours.... and even if it pulls 20 amps, it would last 6 hours.

Of course there is more to it when talking about "useful" amp hours, but the point is that even if it could only operate for 1 hour of "continuous" use, if you use it to move your trailer for a few minutes at a time, then the draw is really insignificant.
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Old 01-15-2016, 12:42 PM   #16
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I dont know if I missed a decimal point on my ah calcs, but I still think the draw is insignificant for its intended use.
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Old 01-16-2016, 09:07 AM   #17
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I called Parkit and they recommended against the EZ connect for larger trailers. We have a FC 23D. I guess I am struggling with how cumbersome it looks to attach to the ball and without the EZ connect the tires limiting the turning radius. Also sounds like 5 minutes run/5 minutes off duty cycle. Overall a much less expensive way to go than Airtug but do you sacrifice too much? Any recent feedback on Parkit 360 for Airstreams would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 03-31-2016, 07:47 PM   #18
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Parkit360 Dollie - How to connect the battery leads?

Silvertwinkie, thanks for your post. I just got the same Parkit360 model (no battery included) for my new Airstream Classic (30'). FYI, I have a ProPride anti-sway hitch installed - so I am having a customized 2" coupler adapter built - hopefully the problem with the wheels getting in the way won't be an issue.

I plan to use the trailer's tongue-based batteries to power the dollie. My trailer's battery system is a two battery set whereby the two batteries are connected to one another.

Question: Do you have any special advice regarding which or two batteries' terminal posts I should be connecting the Parkit360's two battery clips to?

Thank you.
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Old 06-13-2016, 12:51 PM   #19
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I just ordered a Parkit360 Force 10K after I found out they would ship it with a taller ball mount free of charge. This would eliminate the tire interference issue for me. All you have to do is ask them when you order.
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Old 06-18-2016, 10:42 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
What is the run time for the 360 if using its own battery and if using TT batteries?
The vendor says run time is approximately 5 minutes - the reason being possible electric motor and wire overheating. For me, 5 minutes has usually been sufficient. If more than 5 minutes is required, just let the electric motor cool down and then continue use.
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Old 08-29-2016, 01:57 PM   #21
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Fillmore , USA
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We have a parkit 360

Hi there,

We bought our ParkIt a couple years ago and have since revamped our concrete parking area, so we don't need the dolly anymore, I suppose we will sell it. My husband bought it and knows all the particulars. I think he bought the 9000lb model.

It works. It's not an elegant dolly, you can't just hold it with one hand and whistle, but it works. I wish it had a better handle for steering. Just a single length of pipe, like a single handlebar on a bike. He bought a battery for it and a ball, 2", I think. We had a significant slope up to the parking spot and it handled the last 15ft or so of maneuvering. The on-off cycle was not an issue. If you want more info please ask and I will type a more comprehensive and salient post in conjunction with spouse. I'm the online typer in the family.

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Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I called Parkit and they recommended against the EZ connect for larger trailers. We have a FC 23D. I guess I am struggling with how cumbersome it looks to attach to the ball and without the EZ connect the tires limiting the turning radius. Also sounds like 5 minutes run/5 minutes off duty cycle. Overall a much less expensive way to go than Airtug but do you sacrifice too much? Any recent feedback on Parkit 360 for Airstreams would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:01 AM   #22
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dhroberts, there is no special connection needed. just clip one to a positive and one to a negative, that is it. If you ordered your Parkit360 with the brake control plugin you can wire the power input leads to the plugin on the unit. That way you will not need the separate wires. When you plug your trailer into it the battery will be connected through the wires normally used by your tow vehicle to charges the trailer batteries. It works great.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:10 AM   #23
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So do you mind sharing what was your total cost was and have you tried it on grass?
😀
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Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie View Post
I finally broke down and picked one of these bad boys up last year:

P360XL 11000lbs-4989kgs

It's not an inexpensive tool-- by any means, but one that really can make getting the RV in and out of tight spots a breeze compared to navigating an 18' tow vehicle to do the same task.

My main need for this was getting the trailer in and out of storage, which was extremely tight (read a few inches of clearance on either side of the trailer-- if that much). My reasoning was, the cost of this unit would be very small in comparison to body damage on my Safari, along with the high probability of damage given the extreme tight entry door with each entry and exit needing to be perfect each time all while trying to assess the back of the trailer from some 35' from the driver's seat of the SUV with a slight grade involved.

This particular unit is far more than I currently need however, like the AirSafe hitch, I purchased a unit based on any possible future upgrades in trailer size, which would translate into more weight, opting to do this once vs two times.

The way I have mine configured is that it connects to the front batteries on the trailer, which means no additional battery or battery case is needed to power the dolly. You can get a battery case and such if needed, but since the trailer has two up front, I figured why not just use them instead. Works great!

The seven pin connector, connects directly to the unit and I have the ability to activate the trailer brakes while using this power dolly, which has been a really great thing to have on any type of grade!! This was an upgrade (read additional cost).

There are two issues though:

One is that the ball doesn't seat very well sometimes and I found that placing a paper towel over the ball before putting the tongue on it makes the connection a lot more rigid and less tiring to navigate the nearly 800+lb hitch weight around-- even though I've tightened it as they describe in their instructions.

Second is the tires. They tend to get in the way of the "A" frame when making more pronounced turns and it seems this recent accessory would solve that problem, but that is another $420:

EZ Connect by Parkit360

Though the second problem basically limits the turning radius of the trailer and I suspect a taller ball support might also solve this problem, the linked accessory might also make both issues go away completely....but by then you're talking a nearly $2k solution, though less costly than skin replacement, it's not a tool the average guy buys, but we all need our toys I suspect.

For those of you in the market for a power hitch, I have found this one very well built and a very useful tool to have, particularly if you are moving your trailer in some very tight spots. I find I can fairly easily move the trailer into positions where a tow vehicle may have been far more difficult or nearly impossible.

The cost however is VERY steep for the privilege of having this maneuverability, but after looking at what was out there, I simply decided to go with this brand/model and it has performed as expected. Not sure I'll plunk down another $420 for the accessory, but will continue to evaluate the usefulness of the power dolly and maybe if I win the lottery, pick it up.
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:02 AM   #24
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We have a storage garage and need to manuver the 19' and 23FB into 45'x18' space. I chose the Trailer Valet XL Dolly with Chain Drive, on sale from etrailer after watching their video review.

This works very well for our purpose and no motor to maintain or worry about. I have used the hand crank and the drill option. Both work.

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Old 09-27-2016, 10:48 AM   #25
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I've used mine on mostly hard surface, stone drive and concrete. There is a fairly good grade dropping it into the patio from the drive and it handles it well. It's a PITA to move the trailer around with it, nowhere near as elegant as they show in the videos, but like with anything else you get more proficient with use. I really like the fact that I'm not tethered to shore power. Where the trailer goes, so goes my power supply. I did opt for the longer connection cable. I'll try to post a pic of the drive, slope and final parked location. Not possible at all with a tow vehicle, no matter how good you may be.

Grass use? I don't have the upgraded tires. Before I put stone down I had partly grass and gravel in the transition space between the drive and the patio, it seemed to do well. No slips, slides or catastrophes. Of course level hard ground is optimal, but not always possible.

All in all, I like the fact that it can feed directly off the coaches 12v batteries. I connect mine in a similar fashion to how the Airstream connects so I use both batteries, and can get more than 5 mins of use. A lot of stop and starts due to really threading the needle in my case. If I had larger than a 27 footer, not sure I could do the same as I do now with my 25er in my current situation.

The unit came with a ball mount, that did not solve the issue of getting out of the way of the power hitch jack. Ironically, I found connecting directly to the mostly retracted hitch jack base, taking out the ball mount on the dolly solved a lot of my issues, however, getting the trailer off can be a somewhat tricky situation since the trailer is sitting on the power dolly from the hitch jack. I built a brace with a few 2x4s, raised the tongue, lower the "A" frame onto the brace and that gets me free of the dolly. I am pretty sure that accessory they sell would completely solve the issue and make uncoupling easier, sans the other accessory that bolts to the A frame. I just don't want more attached to the A frame cause water gets trapped and then another place to maintain to hold back rust. I just don't feel like paying more for accessories when I plunked down more than a 10 c-notes for the dolly itself. Who knows what I'll do long term, for now, the 3-4 uses I get per year hard to justify, but as I get older.........

It's funny, I moved to this house about a year ago, after my initial need for this getting in and out of my old storage place.... and there was a block party in my new to me neighborhood. Not hi, I'm so and so....first thing out of a number of my neighbor's mouths was:

"Hey you're they guy with that Airstream, I love that thing!"
"We just moved here too and when I saw your Airstream, I called my friend and said, my neighbor has one of those Airstreams...."
"How on Earth did you get that wedged in there like that with your truck?"

Neighbors like the RV so I can keep it on one of the patio areas on the property all summer with zero complaints (but a lot of tours-- some older guy, not a neighbor drove by and actually stopped and asked for a tour). This is mostly due to having the power dolly. I'm sure the neighbors and town would feel differently (as would I) if it were on the driveway in the open.

Anyway....great first world problems to have.....
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:00 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocco52 View Post
dhroberts, there is no special connection needed. just clip one to a positive and one to a negative, that is it. If you ordered your Parkit360 with the brake control plugin you can wire the power input leads to the plugin on the unit. That way you will not need the separate wires. When you plug your trailer into it the battery will be connected through the wires normally used by your tow vehicle to charges the trailer batteries. It works great.
A great idea! Thanks. I will try this weekend.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:02 AM   #27
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I, too, use the Trailer Valet XL mover. I have used their products for about five years with no problems. I had their original model and then upgraded to the XL when I bought my new Airstream. It's easy to maneuver around corners and tight spaces. Great price and customer service too.
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:29 PM   #28
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I bought a homemade one from a guy who built one for himself and a friend but his friend backed out. It looks like a cross between the parkit360 and the one in the following link. He made it for about $400. Mine is terrific and easily moves my 25 built from a 1.2hp winch. We have low profile tires so the jack does not get in the way.


http://www.proud-canadian.com/wp-con...m_P1070121.jpg
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