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Old 10-30-2015, 11:20 AM   #1
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2010 28' Flying Cloud
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Painted a ProPride

Bought a lightly used PP a couple of years ago. While it was fairly new, it had been left out in the weather and I decided to give it a coat of paint. I sanded and prepped carefully and then ended up using Duplicolor acrylic enamel. Seems to have worked okay. I tried epoxy first but that was a pain and I gave it up and moved to the easier application.

I have had the hitch ready to go now for about 1 1/2 years but didn't install it because my tow vehicle wasn't up to the task. I have now remedied that and will be installing the hitch in the coming weeks. The paint is well hardened now and is certainly ready to go! I am looking forward to the install. Hope my boss is too since I will likely need her to be a pair of extra hands to hold stuff as I go.

Thought I would post some of the painting photos for others who might want to tackle this as well.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:07 PM   #2
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Judicious use of a floor jack and a bottle jack allowed me and 17 year old daughter to easily install the ProPride system ourselves.

Follow the directions carefully. If you don't have them, Sean can tell you where to download them. He also responds to questions via cell phone as well. He is super helpful.

You will need a 250 ft-pound torque wrench at one point, plus the socket and bar for the latches to hold and tighten some stinger bolts. That was the hard part. Picking up the head was a strain, but I put it on a floor jack to lift and hold it in place.

Be sure to get the yoke dead center on the A-frame so it will tow and track right. I had to move the propane tank mount a little bit to clear the WD jack bases, so you may have to turn your power tongue jack head 90 degrees to maintain clearances from the propane tank cover.

Spend some time dialing in the WD jacks for your load and TV suspension. I tweak mine between 6 and 7 inches to get things level and eliminate porpoising depending on load I'm trailer and bed of truck.

Look at some of the hitch threads on how to weigh and adjust it WD optimally.

You will love the way it toes when set up right. Panic stops and passing big rigs will no longer bother you. Everything stays in line. You will see the trailer tracking a little different in turns. It will tend to come toward the inside of turns more than on the ball. Watch for this because it acts different. Try turns in a big empty parking lot to see what it does. It can turn a lot sharper with the longer stinger.

I like it, to put it mildly. Lot less of a white-knuckle ride in the wind!

The best part is now I can fully open the tailgate on my Tacoma when hitched up!


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Old 10-30-2015, 12:18 PM   #3
cwf
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Very nice paint fixup. Ours is almost 3 years in the weather. Starting to fade. I am thinking to paint same color as the tongue...keep it "simple".. Also, a lighter color may show "fading" less than the black...

One thing I am going to add when I clean up the area is to put some "non skid" tape on top of the weight bars. This wil save wear on them as I shake the bar with my foot as I loosen during unhitching.

Oh, putting the PP on, my son and I did... It was easier with 2.. But not absolutely required.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:39 PM   #4
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You're gonna love towing with that hitch.

The greatest issue folks have with it is hitch/unhitching, yet it is smooth as butter if you get the alignments right before trying to back in. It won't go in if the stinger is out of alignment with the hitch head box. It also is easier if you set the hitch head box a little lower than the singer, up to a half inch. Gravity is holding the front of the hitch head at the bottom of free travel. The hitch head will nicely lift a little and slide right in. I always give those parts a little shot of CorrosionX to lube them. It also helps to file the sharp edges off the end of the stinger just slightly so they are less lightly to bind in the hitch head going in.

For disconnecting, I like to know my wheel well height on the driver's side front and rear of the truck. Then to disconnect I can just raise the trailer tongue jack until i duplicate those heights, undo the over-center latches, and drive right away from the hitch. Has never failed. I keep a tape measure near the driver's seat so it's handy.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:45 PM   #5
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I don't see the "stinger" in the pics...? Nor do I see the "links" Connecting the bars to the adjusters?
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:46 PM   #6
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One more thing on hitching/unhitching.

When backing the trailer into it's parking spot, always pull forward just a foot or so to take any sideways tension off the tires and suspension of the trailer. That will make it easier for the stinger to slide out of the hitch head. Also takes any side tension off your tongue jack.
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Old 10-30-2015, 12:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
One more thing on hitching/unhitching.

When backing the trailer into it's parking spot, always pull forward just a foot or so to take any sideways tension off the tires and suspension of the trailer. That will make it easier for the stinger to slide out of the hitch head. Also takes any side tension off your tongue jack.
Helps to "lock"/secure your tires on AS before pulling ahead. Don't want to skid on your trailer tongue jack.
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Old 10-30-2015, 01:52 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alphonse View Post
Bought a lightly used PP a couple of years ago. While it was fairly new, it had been left out in the weather and I decided to give it a coat of paint. I sanded and prepped carefully and then ended up using Duplicolor acrylic enamel. Seems to have worked okay. I tried epoxy first but that was a pain and I gave it up and moved to the easier application.

I have had the hitch ready to go now for about 1 1/2 years but didn't install it because my tow vehicle wasn't up to the task. I have now remedied that and will be installing the hitch in the coming weeks. The paint is well hardened now and is certainly ready to go! I am looking forward to the install. Hope my boss is too since I will likely need her to be a pair of extra hands to hold stuff as I go.

Thought I would post some of the painting photos for others who might want to tackle this as well.
Al,
How do you manage to get anything done in such a trashy and disorganized shop? Just look at that floor mat. I suspect it is out of line by at least 3/8 of an inch!
Good paint job though.
Bring the hitch to the Canopener for installation and you'll have about a 100 advisors on how to get it on.
Joe
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:27 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
I don't see the "stinger" in the pics...? Nor do I see the "links" Connecting the bars to the adjusters?
New stinger and drop on order. My truck is tall! Links were painted too. They're in the back on the work bench.
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Old 10-30-2015, 02:32 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by AirHeadsRus View Post
Al,
How do you manage to get anything done in such a trashy and disorganized shop? Just look at that floor mat. I suspect it is out of line by at least 3/8 of an inch!
Good paint job though.
Bring the hitch to the Canopener for installation and you'll have about a 100 advisors on how to get it on.
Joe
Joe, too big a risk of vestibular depressant present in Canopians to do any perfectionist level work.
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Old 10-30-2015, 03:47 PM   #11
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You guys are making me miss my walk-out basement and huge shop area in my Huntsville, Alabama former home. Here I have to clear out the garage or work on the driveway or back patio. 😭😭😭 At least the SoCal weather is not that big an issue getting things done outdoors year round😄


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Old 10-30-2015, 04:47 PM   #12
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Joe, too big a risk of vestibular depressant present in Canopians to do any perfectionist level work.
Any mistakes could be fixed with duct tape and hay wire. And, made to look nice I'm sure.
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Old 10-31-2015, 06:55 PM   #13
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For those with weathered paint...spray "POR-15 Top Coat" on it (so long as its clean)...and it will look like new for many...many years. Its the best paint I've even come across for frames.

If there's rust, use their rust preventive coating (red can) on it, then the spray on top coat paint afterwards....and forget about it. (The red can paint is not UV resistant...which is why the top coat is still needed)
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