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Old 03-29-2016, 04:13 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Just a thought. AS is often quoted to say that the tongue weight should not exceed 1000#s. If you add the weight of the BOSP @ 80#s to the 923#s, you are there. At 1000#s you can use the 1000# bars. If you need to transfer a lot of weight, maybe not, but if you can accommodate some of the Tongue weight on the rear axle of the TV, maybe yes. A lighter bar will give the AS a softer ride. Pat
Agreed,
I went through the same exercise and ended up with lighter bars.
My BO came with a pair of 800# bars however they sent a pair of 1,000# for my 30' International. I actually tried both on separate trips and the 800# gave a much smoother ride. My tongue weight is at about a 1000# however after the WD is set it lightens up were the 800# works perfect.
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Old 03-29-2016, 05:14 PM   #72
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I called Blue Ox, give them the trailer specs and they recommended 700 pound bars. They are working out as advertised.
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:01 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Dumpster View Post
Finally, first towing impressions-
Had to go almost 600 miles to pick up the new-to-me trailer. This meant a rather hasty hitch setup, as I wanted to get on the road ASAP and cover as much of the return mileage as possible. Pulled on to I-15 in southern SLC just as rush hour was getting started. I could only hit about 55 mph before sway would start. So I white-knuckled it about 100 miles, because I wasnít getting off, and then back on the freeway. Doing 50-55 and being passed by big rigs, doing 20+ more than me was very exciting. Each truck sucked the trailer and me towards them. Yikes!

Anyway, way too many variables for me to make a comparison to my last hitch. I know for certain setup is not yet ideal. I did increase by one link in the chain, which gave me another 10 mph before sway would start. Big wind was still big trouble. I have a choice between slightly nose-up, or nose-down. It was nose up, so I think I will try the other way. Trailer was also completely empty, so I think loading it up to camp ready will also make a significant difference. We do lots of short trips, so making adjustments and re-testing will be very easy. What I will say is I donít miss all the racket my last hitch made going around tight corners. The ride is also noticeably softer, and I donít worry about stressing my receiver or other parts going over deep dips and driveway approaches.

Question Ė Someone said they got smacked upside the head from a chain latch coming loose. Has anyone drilled an oversized hole on the inside of their frame, so the bolt can pass through and tighten against the opposite side of the frame from the inside? Or would this be a no-no? Was just thinking that it would be just as effective, and render it impossible to fly off the frame.

Cheers
Well that's not good. What trailer and tow vehicle do you have? What weight bars? How many links of chain do you see below the latch/bracket when hooked up?
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Old 03-29-2016, 06:56 PM   #74
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Today I did a proper set up on level pavement, and with the Blue Ox hitch head at the lowest position and WD checked and correct, the AS sits at a very slight nose down, so I feel it is perfect. I couldn't do a test tow, as I needed to find a 1-7/8 socket to tighten the ball nut
Update- got the nut tightened and drove to the scale. With the bars tensioned to link #9 everything feels good, but a little soft. My '16 F150 is a light truck with passenger tires.

What surprised me was- at the scale, after weighing TV axles hitched, I unhitched and got 1100 LBs at the jack, which translates to ~1050 at the tongue, and I didn't have 100 LBS of propane tanks present!

So here I am with 1000LB bars and potentially 1200LB tongue weight. I think I will be OK, with a little weight distribution, so I'm prepared to try it on our first long trip. I really think that, for liability reasons, the bars must be underrated. What is the worst that can happen- they break? The TV will be able to handle that, but I may need to slow down quick!

Plan B is to ask here if anyone has 1500LB bars that they would like to sway for 1000# bars, because the dealer where I bought the hitch doesn't seem very interested in a swap
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Old 03-29-2016, 09:05 PM   #75
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Let me get 1 or 2 tows in with mine and I might be interested in switching. Probably 2 weeks wait.
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:31 AM   #76
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Let me get 1 or 2 tows in with mine and I might be interested in switching. Probably 2 weeks wait.
Sounds good- I'd also like to take a little time. Thanks
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:48 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by Dumpster View Post
Finally, first towing impressions-
Had to go almost 600 miles to pick up the new-to-me trailer. This meant a rather hasty hitch setup, as I wanted to get on the road ASAP and cover as much of the return mileage as possible. Pulled on to I-15 in southern SLC just as rush hour was getting started. I could only hit about 55 mph before sway would start. So I white-knuckled it about 100 miles, because I wasnít getting off, and then back on the freeway. Doing 50-55 and being passed by big rigs, doing 20+ more than me was very exciting. Each truck sucked the trailer and me towards them. Yikes!

Anyway, way too many variables for me to make a comparison to my last hitch. I know for certain setup is not yet ideal. I did increase by one link in the chain, which gave me another 10 mph before sway would start. Big wind was still big trouble. I have a choice between slightly nose-up, or nose-down. It was nose up, so I think I will try the other way. Trailer was also completely empty, so I think loading it up to camp ready will also make a significant difference. We do lots of short trips, so making adjustments and re-testing will be very easy. What I will say is I donít miss all the racket my last hitch made going around tight corners. The ride is also noticeably softer, and I donít worry about stressing my receiver or other parts going over deep dips and driveway approaches.

Question Ė Someone said they got smacked upside the head from a chain latch coming loose. Has anyone drilled an oversized hole on the inside of their frame, so the bolt can pass through and tighten against the opposite side of the frame from the inside? Or would this be a no-no? Was just thinking that it would be just as effective, and render it impossible to fly off the frame.

Cheers
Something must be not right with your setup.
I pull a 30' International with a F-150. Michelin's all around and I cruse at 70 generally. I have no problem with sway. Yes when a semi passes me at 75 I know it but it causes no sway. I have everything g adjusted perfectly level.
As to getting smacked , it is operator fault. You can feel the tention before you release all the way and can raise the jack until it feels safe. That just common sense.
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Old 03-30-2016, 08:51 AM   #78
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Something must be not right with your setup.
I pull a 30' International with a F-150. Michelin's all around and I cruse at 70 generally. I have no problem with sway. Yes when a semi passes me at 75 I know it but it causes no sway. I have everything g adjusted perfectly level.
As to getting smacked , it is operator fault. You can feel the tention before you release all the way and can raise the jack until it feels safe. That just common sense.
Whatever you do do not go too heavy on the bars. It's counter productive. The closest to your .
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:17 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
Just a thought. AS is often quoted to say that the tongue weight should not exceed 1000#s. If you add the weight of the BOSP @ 80#s to the 923#s, you are there. At 1000#s you can use the 1000# bars. If you need to transfer a lot of weight, maybe not, but if you can accommodate some of the Tongue weight on the rear axle of the TV, maybe yes. A lighter bar will give the AS a softer ride. Pat
I believe that is for the AS tongue weight. The hitch, ball assembly and sway jewelry (except for the brackets bolted to the tongue) is on the TV, not the AS tongue. AS specs don't know what I have on my TV or what my TV is rated for, therefore, can't limit what I put on the hitch in addition to the AS tongue.
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Old 03-30-2016, 09:41 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dumpster View Post
Finally, first towing impressions-
Had to go almost 600 miles to pick up the new-to-me trailer. This meant a rather hasty hitch setup, as I wanted to get on the road ASAP and cover as much of the return mileage as possible. Pulled on to I-15 in southern SLC just as rush hour was getting started. I could only hit about 55 mph before sway would start. So I white-knuckled it about 100 miles, because I wasnít getting off, and then back on the freeway. Doing 50-55 and being passed by big rigs, doing 20+ more than me was very exciting. Each truck sucked the trailer and me towards them. Yikes!

Anyway, way too many variables for me to make a comparison to my last hitch. I know for certain setup is not yet ideal. I did increase by one link in the chain, which gave me another 10 mph before sway would start. Big wind was still big trouble. I have a choice between slightly nose-up, or nose-down. It was nose up, so I think I will try the other way. Trailer was also completely empty, so I think loading it up to camp ready will also make a significant difference. We do lots of short trips, so making adjustments and re-testing will be very easy. What I will say is I donít miss all the racket my last hitch made going around tight corners. The ride is also noticeably softer, and I donít worry about stressing my receiver or other parts going over deep dips and driveway approaches.

Question Ė Someone said they got smacked upside the head from a chain latch coming loose. Has anyone drilled an oversized hole on the inside of their frame, so the bolt can pass through and tighten against the opposite side of the frame from the inside? Or would this be a no-no? Was just thinking that it would be just as effective, and render it impossible to fly off the frame.

Cheers
As I recall the OP who got hit was unlatching the chain and the tongue bracket popped off hitting him in the head. The original installer must not have sufficiently tightened the bracket bolts and the tongue and TV must not have been elevated sufficiently to take the tension off the chains for it to release that kind of energy. I have periodically checked my bracket bolts and they remain tight. Also, BOSP makes brackets that bolt through the tongue. I don't know if it is a different bracket or just different mounting bolts.
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Old 03-30-2016, 12:19 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by franklyfrank View Post
Whatever you do do not go too heavy on the bars. It's counter productive. The closest to your .
To complete: I would suggest to use bars closest to your tongue weight after having the WD dialed in. I weighed my TV only loaded ready to go on the trip. Than I hitch up the Trailer, set the WD and reweigh the axles. With the WD set I transfer about 240 # off the rear axle of the TV. So in my case I found the 800# bars giving me the best ride and overall performance of the BO.
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Old 03-30-2016, 06:27 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by NWRVR View Post
As I recall the OP who got hit was unlatching the chain and the tongue bracket popped off hitting him in the head. The original installer must not have sufficiently tightened the bracket bolts and the tongue and TV must not have been elevated sufficiently to take the tension off the chains for it to release that kind of energy. I have periodically checked my bracket bolts and they remain tight. Also, BOSP makes brackets that bolt through the tongue. I don't know if it is a different bracket or just different mounting bolts.

That was me, I have the scar to prove it. It only took once to make me a believer in preventive maintenance on those pesky brackets. I check them for tightness before every hookup. As someone's assertion that it is common sense to lift the TV so there is no tension on the bars. I disagree. I had no reason to know or even assume that when I first got the BO. I learned it the hard way and will never forget that lesson. I rarely even require a tool to hook up or unhook now that I know the proper procedures.
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Old 03-31-2016, 12:59 AM   #83
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Michael, lifting the tongue and TV to load and unload the chains is in the manual but not well noted as I also had quite the surprise the first few times with the wrench nearly jerking my arm off. After learning the trick I too can accomplish the procedure nearly without a wrench but still show it respect with a breaker bar and socket instead of that dangerous little wrench they supply!

Steve
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Old 03-31-2016, 02:17 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by NWRVR View Post
I believe that is for the AS tongue weight. The hitch, ball assembly and sway jewelry (except for the brackets bolted to the tongue) is on the TV, not the AS tongue. AS specs don't know what I have on my TV or what my TV is rated for, therefore, can't limit what I put on the hitch in addition to the AS tongue.
Understand your thought process, but the effect of weight is force. Gravity induced force and spring induced force are similar. Therefore the downward spring force from the WDH adds a point force on the A-frame. More force than is necessary is not a good thing.

Suspect that a prior comment which suggested the AS 1000# spec might be out of date is possibly valid making the 1000# cut off a questionable concern.

However, the point of the post was that considering a lighter weight bar might be worth a look. The extra weight could be from several gear load sources or might well not balance forward at all.

Thanks for clarifying the weight loading specifics. Wonder if the AS engineers included a WDH spring bar in their 1000# calculations when they developed the specifications. Pat
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