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Old 03-13-2016, 03:46 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by AWCHIEF View Post
I bought mine thru the local Airstream dealership. They had the best price I could find with a substantial discount from MSRP. I did have to pay extra for a longer drop bar. After talking to Blue Ox they refunded what I paid for the drop bar. It should of been a direct swap.
I think your local dealer is the same dealer I got my latest trailer from and they wanted considerably more for the hitch (installed granted) than what I got it for mail order and installed it in 30 minutes in the parking lot. I also asked about the longer drop shank and was told it was an extra cost with no swap. This was in Oct last year and I've since heard BO has instituted a program to credit dealers on the cost of the standard shank against a different one. BO also told me via phone last year that the hitch only came with the standard shank and any other length was an additional cost.

Not sure what present policy is.
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:47 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Dumpster View Post
-- snip -- Can you elaborate on the BOSP performance in these conditions relative to other hitches -- snip --

-- snip -- how this hitch design is supposed to deal with sway -- snip -- the tongue to on side or the other, significant force would be required. Am I thinking about this correctly? -- snip -
Dumpster - Never used another hitch, so no comparison from real world experience available here. From what we have read of others experience, they do not feel the wiggle or it does not exist. Either is certainly possible when your TV is a 1 ton, as mass does have advantages. We learned to drive with cars that could reverse course quite quickly and developed a rather sensitive reaction to lateral movement. Our current ride has very sensitive steering and takes a bit of concentration to not over control directional changes. So this all may be a personal problem. We continue the investigation.

BOSP deals with sway by providing spring force to maintain directional stability. Head angle amplifies the spring preload to provide the force to achieve this control. So, yes you are thinking correctly.

Your significant force point deserves a note of caution. Several folks have mentioned the stored energy in the spring bars and encourage raising the tongue jack to reduce the preload prior to disconnecting the chains. Kind of points to their experience with the design using significant force and a need to respect that force a bit. Not difficult, just important to achieve an uneventful trip.

The other point that deserves comment is that all hitches are a compromise of one type or another. Sway control generally works up to a point. That point is beyond the boundary conditions that most folks experience. If you find that your rig stability strays, it is likely that a more conservative approach would improve the stability. Unlike Mark Donahue who found that pushing his CanAm Porsche faster gave him more stability, our rigs do not have much down force to help us.

What concerns me most with your investigation is that it sounds like you may be significantly concerned about stability in slick conditions. I suspect that discussion can only be addressed by a very small population of drivers who have the experience and a technical understanding of the subject. The only understanding we have is to park it and not go there.

Drive safe and enjoy the smiles. Pat
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:56 PM   #31
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At first I didn't like the Blue Ox. Afraid of the kick back when releasing the chains until I figured out that raising the TT which releases the tension makes everything "easy peasy". I can now hook up and unhook within a matter of minutes. The 2016 27FB tows beautifully behind the 2015 Silverado High Country Duramax. I have to be careful because I forget I am towing something. Once you determine how many links you need for the proper tension, mark the last link with paint so you don't have to count the links evertime. Also mark the direction of the chain release. Be sure the misses knows how to do all of this so she can help. I do the unhooking most of the time by myself so the Mr. can run in and get a cold one for us once I have finished.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:02 PM   #32
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The Blue Ox instructions recommend greasing the swivel arms (zerk fittings) each time you hook them up. Seems a bit overkill to me, but I'm no expert. I travel with the grease gun, an extra grease cartridge, and several rags to clean up the old extruded grease, and regrease at least every other hookup. The sway bars connect and disconnect easily, and do not require grease.
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Old 03-13-2016, 06:28 PM   #33
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I traded a creaky Equalizer for a Blue Ox several years ago and am very satisfied with it.
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Old 03-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #34
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I have a question about WDH's so I'll pipe in here. I went from a Yukon Denali to a 2500 crew cab duramax as my tow vehicle. The Yukon squatted quite a bit when hooked up to a 1975 31' land yacht and the WDH was necessary to keep the front wheels on the ground. Empty advertised weight for the trailer is 5000 lbs and 500 lbs tongue weight. Now the tongue weight has little or no effect on the attitude of the truck. The weight bars are 800 lbs. After leveling everything, should I just use less chain links, meaning less weight distribution, or does anyone bother with the WDH with a 3/4 or 1 ton.
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:09 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by phann View Post
The Blue Ox instructions recommend greasing the swivel arms (zerk fittings) each time you hook them up. Seems a bit overkill to me, but I'm no expert. I travel with the grease gun, an extra grease cartridge, and several rags to clean up the old extruded grease, and regrease at least every other hookup. The sway bars connect and disconnect easily, and do not require grease.

I basically regrease mine at the beginning of a long trip. Sometime I forget and then get to it when I remember? I do not worry about it for little short local trips. I think greasing with every use is a bit overkill.
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:06 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Dumpster View Post
After taking everything out of the box, I have some observations-

Good - The finish is nice. It appears to have a thick, powder coat. Fairly heavy-duty, and bulky. I also like that I don't have to mess with the pitch of the hitch head. Or could that be a negative later?

Bad - just like my last hitch, the shank is considerably smaller than the receiver on my TV. There goes the nice finish if I have to weld a shim on it to shore it up. Other ball mounts I have around the garage fit tightly into my receiver. No biggie. Been there and done that.

The other notable is that I expected the swivel joints where the bars go, to have some friction on them. Zip. I understand that the design of this hitch doesn't rely on friction at that point, but still surprised. These puppies are free-wheelin'.

Also had the tow ball mounted by a local shop. Just like other brands, a deep-well socket is needed. 1-7/8", I think. Well beyond what I have in my toolbox.
As an aside; for those of you who do have a 1-7/8" socket, remember that..........
The 2-5/8" ball nut usually calls for 450 ft.lb. of torque, well above a 1/2" torque wrench's range. My torque wrench will go up to 250 ft. lb. still well under the requirement. However........
By lubricating the threads, and the nut face generously with C-5 Colloidal Copper, or 'Never Seize' or similar, you can reduce the specified torque by 40%.
This will give you about 270 ft. lb.,; not very far from the torque wrench's max. pull, and that's a lot of pull!
Me? I put the assembly in the receiver, sit on the ground, put my foot on the bumper for reaction, and pull the wrench.

If you really want that little extra bit of tightness, you can use a 'Johnson' bar and pull it about 5 degrees tighter, but why bother.
If you do NOT tighten the ball bolt properly, you risk a failure by ' fatigue break'.
(Information used as a former Premier Fastener corp. rep.)
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Old 03-13-2016, 09:44 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by kosullivan View Post
I have a question about WDH's so I'll pipe in here. I went from a Yukon Denali to a 2500 crew cab duramax as my tow vehicle. The Yukon squatted quite a bit when hooked up to a 1975 31' land yacht and the WDH was necessary to keep the front wheels on the ground. Empty advertised weight for the trailer is 5000 lbs and 500 lbs tongue weight. Now the tongue weight has little or no effect on the attitude of the truck. The weight bars are 800 lbs. After leveling everything, should I just use less chain links, meaning less weight distribution, or does anyone bother with the WDH with a 3/4 or 1 ton.
You need a minimum of 2" of flex in the spring bars to preload the hitch for sway control. Beyond that, the choice of bars and weight distribution is somewhat a rig specific tweak. Suggest you contact the Blue Ox tech support for a better answer to your question. Pat
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Old 03-13-2016, 10:33 PM   #38
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All- Thanks! This is great. This was the kind of discussion I was looking to generate, and benefit from.

PKI - I appreciate you letting me know that this is your first equalizing hitch. All of your observations are very helpful, and insightful. What I will say, is after my whopping 12+ years of towing (admittedly not that much), I have never had a hitch that made me feel invincible. There is always something reminding me that there are 2 1/2 tons hooked to my bumper. Twitches, jerks, noises, any and all making me think that this is the time that the death sway starts.
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:03 PM   #39
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All- -- snip -- equalizing hitch. -- snip -- never made me feel invincible. -- snip -- the death sway starts.
With a major brand that will be eternally linked to the term "equilizer" I would reject such a description for the BOSP. They are enough different in design and function that such terminology is confusing and inaccurate. The key attribute of the BOSP is the flexibility of the TV to TT connection while providing sway control.

Invincible - that is exactly the point of why active driving is the primary element in safe towing.

Death sway? - Just how fast do you drive that Dumpster? Pat
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Old 03-13-2016, 11:58 PM   #40
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I bought mine thru the local Airstream dealership. They had the best price I could find with a substantial discount from MSRP. I did have to pay extra for a longer drop bar. After talking to Blue Ox they refunded what I paid for the drop bar. It should of been a direct swap.

I found mine last night through a Sponsored Link on Amazon. It was only $450 new, and they had 11 units left. I kept looking today, and realized that this was a killer price, so I jumped on it. By the time I returned to Amazon, they only had 1 left. I double checked and they are now listed as $577 on Amazon.
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:34 AM   #41
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Death sway? - Just how fast do you drive that Dumpster? Pat
Just like before we had no speed limit here in Montucky, I always drive at the speed I feel comfortable. Every day, and every situation is different. Generally speaking, that speed is about 65 mph. One day last summer, the planets were aligned, had a tailwind, and I was tooling along at 75+.

I am knocking on proverbial wood as I write this- I have only been in a death sway situation once, and it wasn't towing Dumpster. I rented a double-axle open trailer from Uhaul that they refer to as an "RO". I went to the nearest gravel pit and had it filled with gravel for a landscaping project. I didn't notice it at the time, but the pile the loader dropped in the trailer was well behind what I would consider the center line of the trailer. I hit the scale so I could pay, and thought I might be in trouble. Exactly 14,500 lbs. was flashing at me on the screen. Keep in mind, I was in a 1/2 ton SUV with a relatively short wheel base.

I hit the road thinking, slow and easy was the name of the game. Heck, I was only a few miles from home, with only back country roads separating me from my destination. Well, thunder did strike. I hit about 40 mph, and the trailer started to sway, violently. It was so bad, that with each back-and-forth, the rear end of my TV actually lifted off the pavement. The overfilled trailer, weighing significantly more than my TV, was having its way with me and my SUV. Let me tell you, it was in charge.

I obviously had no equalization or sway control. I have read that the best way out of that situation was to basically floor it and apply the trailer brake simultaneously. Well, no trailer brake, either. All I could do was hold on, keep my foot off the brake (made it worse), and try to keep in on the road until it stopped. Fortunately, it did.

I spent the next hour with no shovel, moving as much gravel as I could forward of the axles. Truthfully, I didn't want to get back behind the wheel.

So that is my own personal horror story of 'death sway'. It is something I never want to experience again. Ever since that day, every jerk, twitch, creak or moan has me on edge. Is it happening again? I am a bonafide paranoid tower, plain and simple. Rereading this, I am also never going to attempt a go at writing a short story. Yikes!

I hate towing. I hate every single minute of it. I want to feel comfortable doing it, though I never truly have. Maybe I never will. The BOSP probably isn't the answer, but I am hoping it just might be.
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Old 03-14-2016, 07:25 AM   #42
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I have been towing boats my entire life. Most were in the 4000 to 7000 pound range and never required weight distribution or sway control hitches. I never had a boat try to sway on me. Owning a travel trailer was a whole new experience though! When I bought the Airstream last year I did a ton of research and decided to go with the Sway Pro. I watched all the videos on installing and setting it up properly. On our first tow we experienced a lot of sway. I was almost ready to take the RV back to the dealer. I ended up adjusting tire pressures and tweaking some settings on the hitch though trying to get everything level and properly balanced/distributed. It towed a lot better after that, but with our 30' Airstream I would still get sway in high winds and when certain vehicles passed. Also, our jack on the front of the trailer struggled to pick up enough weight to take the tension off the rods, which made for scary unhitching. There were things I really liked about the sway pro (quiet, clean, good quality, durable paint job), but I was just never completely comfortable with it. I ended up switching to a different hitch and have been very happy. I am not trying to "badmouth" the Sway Pro. It certainly had its good points, but like all hitches I felt it had some trade offs. I know some people will say I just did not have it set up correctly, but I personally think it only has mediocre sway control ability. My dad has since bought the Sway Pro from me and has used it on two separate trailers. It worked great on a 25' trailer he had, but he is having some minor sway issues with it on his newer (and taller) 28' trailer he just bought. I think he is still happy overall with the hitch though. Certain hitches excel at certain things. I think you just have to chose what you want most from your hitch and go from there.
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