Not getting weight to front axle

[ROBERT CROSS]

Scotty,
Your numbers/measurements look pretty good as long as you haven't exceeded the GAWR, you can find that on the door sticker.
The first thing that jumped out was the fact that you were 3" low in the r/r on your loaded truck measurements. Is that consistent when the truck is unloaded? Looks as though you've moved 500# to the front axle, a little surprising considering the measurement numbers. Also I didn't see a trailer weight w/o the bars.
All in all though it looks good to go, as long as the trailer is LEVEL at the max bar settings. If not a new drop stinger may be in order, haha exchange, or Pro Pride adjustable. I had go from 4 to 6 on the 06 Burb. The bars are for weight transfer not for leveling the trailer.

Only thing left is a good long trip to check things out.

Stream Safe
Bob.

[dmac]

Is the truck right rear wheel opening really 3" higher than the left?

I am no expert...my simplistic method for adjusting my Equal-i-zer hitch is to adjust the drop shank so the trailer is a couple inches nose low when hitched without the WD bars attached. Then adjust the weight distribution bars (and/or the head angle, if needed) to distribute the tongue weight about evenly between the rear and front truck axles - this is where your fender height measurements are used, adjust for equal deflection. This should raise the front of the trailer back to level. If the trailer ends up nose high, then start over with more drop (or visa-versa).

If your WD bars are too stiff, then the desired weight transfer occurs with too little bend in the bars. The WD bars will both excessively unload (doing no good) and overload (pounding the trailer) during towing over bumps and hills.

If the bars are too soft, then you may not achieve the desired weight distribution. However, erroring on the soft side is probably better than the other way.

In any case, the trailer must end up level!

Now - the experts can tell you the real story...

[ROBERT CROSS]

Originally Posted by dmac

Is the truck right rear wheel opening really 3" higher than the left

Sorry Scott my fingers got ahead of my brain, right side high!!

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by Scotty Oh

Load truck no trailer:
Fender rt ft 36.25, lt ft 36.25, rt rr 38.5 lt rr 35.5
Inside top of reciever 17.75
Front axle 3620 rear axle 3160, total 6780.
Loaded trailer level, full fresh water, full propane:
Tongue 1100, axle 6060.

Jack at the stop
Reciever 15.75
Frame ft 16.25, 16.75
Trailer axle weight 6200
Truck weights ft 3660, rr 3840
Measurment rt ft 36.25, lt ft 36.25, rt rr 36.75, lt rr 37.00

Scotty,

For the first weighing, the gross combined weight was 3620+3160+1100+6060 = 13940#.

For the last weighing, the gross combined weight was 3660+3840+6200 = 13700#.

The total weight of TV and TT should be approximately equal for all weighings. A discrepancy of 240# makes it difficult to calculate what the WD system is doing. Was there some load on the scales during the first weighing which was not present during the last weighing?

Ron

[Mikethefixit]

Forget Fender Measurements
THE TAIL IS IN THE SCALE
Come off a dollar and go to a CAT Scale and actually weigh the rig. U cannot tell how much weight is transferred from fender heights.
Remembering that the trailer has to be level when hooked up. The a-frame height or ball height should be approximately 19 inches . The trailer must be towed level. a 15.5 ball height is not level.
IF you will not listen I cant help ya.
GOOD LUCK

[ROBERT CROSS]

Roger,
FWIW
I don't think anyone has told Scotty that the measuremrnts are the end-all-be all, just that it's good starting point. Lets all try and get him SAFE before we scare him away.

Bob.

[markdoane]

Originally Posted by Ron Gratz

Scotty,
. . . The total weight of TV and TT should be approximately equal for all weighings. A discrepancy of 240# makes it difficult to calculate what the WD system is doing. Was there some load on the scales during the first weighing which was not present during the last weighing?

Ron

This happened to me once. When I did the initial weight I was standing on the running board of the truck. When I did the reweigh, I was standing off the side of the scale platform.

And looking at the weight transfer, you would guess the front axle weight in the second weighing would be a couple of hundred pounds higher.

Not saying that's what happened, but it happened to me once.

[Mikethefixit]

Bob
I hope I don't scare Scotty . I have 45 yrs with loads and load transfers while in the trucking industry. ITs all relevelant . IT only takes a few bucks to do the CAT Scale experience Scotty.Then U will not be guessing with fender measurements.
U can find accurate scales almost anywhere and for a few bucks and a kind word U get the info u need. Recyclers, Scrap yards. feedmills and truckstops. U will find certified scales. Fender measurements maybe a place to start. But U have no knowledge of what wieght is accutually transfered.
Ok Off the soap box , IM OUT

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by Mikethefixit

Bob
I hope I don't scare Scotty . I have 45 yrs with loads and load transfers while in the trucking industry. ITs all relevelant . IT only takes a few bucks to do the CAT Scale experience Scotty.Then U will not be guessing with fender measurements.
U can find accurate scales almost anywhere and for a few bucks and a kind word U get the info u need. Recyclers, Scrap yards. feedmills and truckstops. U will find certified scales. Fender measurements maybe a place to start. But U have no knowledge of what wieght is accutually transfered.
Ok Off the soap box , IM OUT

I have a question. When weighing, should the tow vehicle have a full tank of gas, half tank?? Will it make a difference in your setup??

[Mikethefixit]

Actually full everything even food and clothing,grill,charcoal, wood what ever U usually camp with, except maybe the gray and black tanks. That way U get a true gross on the whole outfit.The readings are truely realistic to what U will be towing down the highway. Having those readings some adjustment can be made.

[ROBERT CROSS]

What Roger said..
When we're loaded as in post 19 I always stop at the scales, top up fuel, weigh, make any adjustments and hit the road. If I hadn't done it on that trip I wouldn't have known the coach was overweight.
BSTS

[rogerdodger]

Thanks. I will be hitching for the first time, and reading this post, and have located CAT scales. They are handy so will use them as you have.

[87MH]

My advice would be to get a more appropriately rated Tow Vehicle the next time around....

Scotty Oh stated actual ratings of his Tundra:

GAWF 4000, GAWR 4150, GVW 7200, GCWR 16000, Tow cap 10100.

Originally Posted by Scotty Oh

What to do?....

Load truck no trailer:
Front axle 3620 rear axle 3160, total 6780.

7200GVW less 6780 lbs Actual weight leaves only 420 lbs for trailer tongue, extra gas, and driver???

Originally Posted by Scotty Oh

Truck and trailer no tension on bars:
Axle ft 3160, rear 4540, total 7700
Jack at the stop
Truck weights ft 3660, rr 3840 *total - 7500*

Your actual recorded weights indicate that you have your Tundra over loaded by 500 and 300 lbs, respectively, when you did your weigh-ins....

Toyota can beat their chests about the Tundra as much as they want, the bottom line is that the actual ratings are below what is required to tow much of the Airstream line.

[slowmover]

Keep working with what you have to get it as close as possible to "ideal" (still a matter of debate, but basics are agreed on [I think]). I've had to work with mine and I am still not seeing what I "want" to see. I recommend these two threads to you:

The first is the sticky at the top of this sub-forum:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...sis-19236.html

The second is another of (the missing) 2Air's:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

Short of changing the TV you'll want to get as close as you can to ideal. The proper numbers -- lot's of 'em -- give others the chance to be that second set of eyes (or brain) for you.

Be sure to move off and back around onto the scale with any changes you make.

[HiHoAgRV]

In general I agree with the basic guidelines that typically get posted here and on other sites (although we tend to be slightly more of a passionate group) regarding weight 'disturbing' hitches...
But they were designed well before some of todays application specific vehicles...
For example, a 3/4 ton diesel is waaaay nose heavy...
The goal could be stated that we need to keep from removing so much weight from the front that the front end lifts and the steering geometry is affected...

I try to keep the nose weight the same when loaded as unloaded, I still end up with more than 50% vehicle weight on the nose.

It's easy to use the posted guides for W/D and exceed my front axle gross weight while having 1/2 ton extra capacity on the rear axle...

Now if I ever get a '77 LTD wagon, I'll listen to the archives...

[OhScottyOh]

Check out the Tundra hitch and it is very substancial, much like the one you show you added.

[OhScottyOh]

Thank Ron, It could be that I steped off the scale at one of the readings. That would make up 240.
Scotty

[OhScottyOh]

Hi Rodger, Thanks for the help. I use the scale that ODOT has set up for the use of truckers all around Oregon. They seem quite accurate as they all weights are the same. I don't mind paying a couple of bucks if needed but why pay for what is free.

[OhScottyOh]

Bob, My jacks are set clear to the max, can't bring them up anymore.
Scotty

[OhScottyOh]

Your not scaring me. I am just soaking this all up and when ready, will squeeze out the correct answer to this little problem. As set up now I is doing great just want to improve if I can.