Noisy Propride Hitch

[HeadWest]

So, I finally picked up our 28' International Signature a couple of weeks ago. The dealer installed and configured the hitch for me and I noticed a bit more bounce then I expected. The drive home, backing in the driveway, etc. was all fine and quite. This weekend I towed the trailer to a local truck stop after cranking up the WD jacks up further. When backing up and doing slow speed maneuvers there was a bit of loud creaking from the hitch. I would expect a bit of noise from other hitch designs but was pretty surprised with the Propride.

Is this normal to have some noise from the hitch?

[Zigidachs]

Some creaking seems to be the norm...but do you have it "dialed in" correctly...not too much height on the jacks...is the weight on the TV front axle the same hitched and unhitched....have you greased the zerts? ( this should be done every 1000 miles or so) Zigi

[JFScheck]

What zerts on a ProPride?

[richinny]

the weight distribution bars have a fittink where they pivot.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I would check all of the mounting bolts to see if they need to be snugged up a bit and/or call Sean.

[SteveSueMac]

HeadWest - the grease zerks are located just above the weight distribution bar heads (where they connect to the hitch head near the tow vehicle side). My dealer installed mine and I had some creaking after about 200 miles. Grease solved that. After about another 1000 miles I needed to do it again.

While I have zero sway, I have learned there is a sweet spot for me in terms of dialing down porpoising. How high up are your jacks? I've posted about several adjustments after going to the scales a few times and 5.5-6" seems to be the "Goldilocks" area for my set up. I haven't figured out how to link to a thread here but search for "at the scales" and the "unofficial PP user guide" threads for much more info.

Last - do you have the PDF of the installation/user guide or did the dealer give you the hard copy? That will help and it includes Sean's phone number. Call him for help - you won't be disappointed. My dealer missed something and Sean walked me through the fix by phone/photos....and helped me make the tweaks I needed to dial it all on properly, along with the amazing folks in this forum who responded publicly and privately to my thousands of questions.

A little tweaking - a lot of asking - you'll get it all dialed in!

[Zigidachs]

Sean advised that the weight on the TV front axle should be the same both hitched and unhitched, which can easily be accomplished at a scale, CAT or otherwise. (We have a state road scale close to us and it is free, so that part is easy.)

With our long bed truck our jacks were cranked up to about 5.5 inches, but with our new short bed TV, the jacks have to be at 8" to shift the tongue weight back to the FA as when unhitched. After adjustments the TV was properly balanced and the ride was perfect! ( make certain that you have a full tank of fuel, and that all the "stuff" that you plan to take on a trip is loaded in the bed of the TV--also take the co-pilot and the dog!)

[BAB]

Had the same issue, and as others have already posted....you need to get a grease gun onto those zerk fittings. Your squealing/squeaking will disappear. It did for me (and taught me a lesson that these need an occasional treatment. I had a small grease gun in my toolbox ... about a 10 minute job.

[Sean Woodruff]

It has already been addressed but it is definitely the spring bars not being greased.

The dealer may have not greased them at all during the installation. It has been known to happen more than once with a dealer install.

[Zackybilly1]

I just ordered a ProPride 3P today and can't wait to get my hands on it. I took delivery of a 28' Intn'l Sig on Friday (my 4th AS) with a dealer installed Eaz-Lift Trekker hitch...it was good enough to get it home but am less than enchanted with it. Saturday, I un-did everything the dealer did and started from scratch. The anti-sway drag nuts weren't torqued properly (off by 100%), the torsion bars were way off (too much deflection in them...porpoised like crazy) and the torsion arm brackets on the A-frame were loose. I feel sorry for those not handy with wrenches as they are just at someone else's mercy.

With every thing dialed in, it still seemed sub-standard compared to my TV & AS and I considered it the weak link between two fine pieces of equipment. Frankly and not trying to offend anyone, it just isn't a very good design to start with (Mickey Mouse would even be ashamed), too much hassle to tweak and too much slop to fine tune it. I preferred Eaz-Lift's old design over this POS. It will, however, make a fine boat anchor.

I don't want to control sway...I want to eliminate it from the equation. I design/build equipment for a living and know a good design when I see one. I had no reservation about ordering the 3P and considering what I am getting, found the pricing very reasonable. Good Lord willing, I'll have it on the scales Friday and my package will be complete.

Z

PS...Nice forum.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by Zackybilly1

I just ordered a ProPride 3P today and can't wait to get my hands on it. ...

Z

PS...Nice forum.

Welcome to the forums!

[BAB]

Since I also have a 2012 28' Intl, trust me when I tell you that you are jaw will drop after you have your PP all installed and dialed in. I'm sure Sean has taken as good care of you as he has all of us who have equipped our trailers with this hitch. Having just returned form a 4 week, 6,200 mile trip with my Intl, and going through wind, rain, mountains, you -name-it, I can tell you that I can't imagine being more satisfied. Since our trailers have a VERY heavy tongue weight (heavier than a 30' Classic), do make a voyage over to the CAT scale so you can determine how many turns to put on your WD jacks...which you can easily alter based upon how much "stuff" you're hauling....and if you do have a question, call Sean. Sad to say, he even answers his phone on the weekends....great for us, not so much for his family!

[Zigidachs]

Originally Posted by BAB

Since I also have a 2012 28' Intl, trust me when I tell you that you are jaw will drop after you have your PP all installed and dialed in. I'm sure Sean has taken as good care of you as he has all of us who have equipped our trailers with this hitch. Having just returned form a 4 week, 6,200 mile trip with my Intl, and going through wind, rain, mountains, you -name-it, I can tell you that I can't imagine being more satisfied. Since our trailers have a VERY heavy tongue weight (heavier than a 30' Classic), do make a voyage over to the CAT scale so you can determine how many turns to put on your WD jacks...which you can easily alter based upon how much "stuff" you're hauling....and if you do have a question, call Sean. Sad to say, he even answers his phone on the weekends....great for us, not so much for his family!

One cannot laud Sean enough for his attention to detail and relentless support of his customer base.,,,NONE better!

[Zackybilly1]

Hope this is semi-relevant...

I contacted Sean about concerns I had on the drop of the standard 3P hitch bar.

I'm rigging up the 3P on a 2013 3/4-ton Suburban where the top of the receiver box is 25-3/4" above ground level. The standard 3P hitch bar will not cover that range of adjustment therefore he will be shipping an extended hitch bar. Additionally, since the weight of the hitch is cumulative, he has advised me to go with the 1,400 lbs torsion bars.

Z

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Zackybilly1

Hope this is semi-relevant...

I contacted Sean about concerns I had on the drop of the standard 3P hitch bar.

I'm rigging up the 3P on a 2013 3/4-ton Suburban where the top of the receiver box is 25-3/4" above ground level. The standard 3P hitch bar will not cover that range of adjustment therefore he will be shipping an extended hitch bar. Additionally, since the weight of the hitch is cumulative, he has advised me to go with the 1,400 lbs torsion bars.

Z

This feels like preaching to the choir, but here goes:

The willingness to experiment is key (I feel you already know). A stack of scale tickets with notes about loadings is the "friend" one always has available to consult in the future. The weight range of vehicle loadings is generally narrow, and the possible needed adjustments is correspondingly narrow in range. As Robert Cross writes, once this range is covered, then an annual check shows good to go. How to adjust the hitch is now known in advance.

I would start with adjusted empty weights for both vehicles. That means full fuel +permanent items + driver aboard the TV (as it will be higher than published shipping weight), and full water + propane + permanent supplies aboard the TT to estalish what will be the lowest weight one would ever see (as it will also be different from A/S literature). And from there, the range of loadings for short or long trips, extra pax, etc.

Eliminating guesswork is more than just a confidence-builder when one has also verified tire loads with/without WD applied (and consequent TV air pressure).

A few links here from a thread on another forum may be of help if one wishes to be painstaking (even if the TV-specific information is different).

Hitch Basics with Links

You may wish to detail your setup on the specific Pro Pride Users / Owners thread and cite CHEVROLET instructions (if any).

.

[HeadWest]

I have a message into Sean for a little bit of clarification on the grease situation. It appears there is a bit of rubbing at the spring bar links and the bottom part of the jacks (rounded piece). It probably only does that in tight turn situations and am thinking this might also need a bit of grease.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by HeadWest

(snip) It appears there is a bit of rubbing at the spring bar links and the bottom part of the jacks (rounded piece). (Snip.)

Can you post pictures of the locations you're talking about?

[Cris911]

Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff

It has already been addressed but it is definitely the spring bars not being greased.

The dealer may have not greased them at all during the installation. It has been known to happen more than once with a dealer install.

I think that my setup falls into the group where the dealer probably didn't grease the spring bars during the initial installation. With that in mind, I applied a small amount today. While doing so, the thought comes up -- "Just how much grease should I apply ??". I hesitate going back to the philosophy of 'keep squeezing the grease gun until it comes out of the fitting'.

Thanks,

Cris

[dkottum]

Cris, that's how you do it. Just keep squeezing until fresh grease comes out the bottom. Then it's full.

doug k

[slowmover]

Yes, this is a "waste-ful" type of grease use. But simple and effective, as well as a relatively small amount of grease, overall. No need to calibrate, etc, just pump until new grease appears. Clean it off, sort of, and get down the road.