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Old 09-30-2011, 05:52 PM   #29
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1977 27' Overlander
Trotwood , Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,153
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Im with ANDY and BOB. If you have an OLD STYLE Reese Dual Cam with 600 lb bars,I think thats 1" square at the trunion,that should be sufficant. We had an old reese set up with 1000 lb bars that came with the trailer at purchase.THOSE BARS liked to wrecked us gettin the trailer home. THE rebound of those bars was herendious and almost caused me to loose control on some uneven bridges on the interstate.
I was able to recover just because of my 45 yrs of driving skill hauling all kinds of things.
I never used those bars again. We have a monster 1 ton F350/7.3liter Diesel that comes in at 8000lbs full of fuel, and it was not originally intended to pull and AIRSTREAM.But its what we have and I hitch accordingly.
After 3 yrs of just short trips I have NO POPPED RIVITS and things stay put inside the coach and we get an ocean wave ride up front.
SPEND THE TIME and first take the TV to the scales full of fuel and passengers and then the loaded trailer,weighing each axle and then the whole rig. THEN make adjusts based on facts.

Roger & MaryLou
7.3 liter Power Stroke Diesel
1977 27ft OVERLANDER
AIR # 22336 TAC- OH-7
May your roads be straight and smooth and may you always have a tailwind!
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:33 PM   #30
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Port Orchard , Washington
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First of all, my purpose is not to convince anybody of anything.

My sole purpose of the first post was to be sure that the members with the original questions saw that this advice to use bars below their ratings was at least questionable.

I just got through visiting several hitch sites. Of those that addressed the issue, all said that hitch systems were rated for tongue weight and max trailer weight. for instance 1400/14000, 1000/10000, 600/6000, etc. They all said make sure not to exceed either number. Personally I am going to follow those rules and every time I see someone giving out advice saying that it is not necessary to follow those rules, I am going to make it known that this advice is not universally believed in and is contrary to hitch manufacturer's guidelines.

I an not in this discussion to prove or state it won't work. I am only attempting to show that it is not a practice sanctioned by hitch companies. If anyone wishes to operate that way then I want it to be well informed decision.

Unless someone comes up with a statement from a manufacturer that this is a safe and sanctioned practice, I am going to mention this each time I see that advice given out.

Personally I would not do it myself simply because people say it works for them and nothing has happened yet.

This is the last post I am going to make in this thread (I know everyone is saying thank goodness).

Sincerely, if someone can get a hitch company to say this is OK, I would very much like to see it.


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Old 09-30-2011, 09:13 PM   #31
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1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
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Well, first, I do have a mechanical engineering Degree from the University of Buffalo. No I do not design hitches but I do own three Reese hitches that have come with various trailers I have purchased. I have a one ton Dually which has fairly stiff suspension but I make it a little more flexible by under inflating the tires per the tire manufacturers recommendation for the number of pounds the tires are carrying rather than the max weight of the truck and trailer. I also own a Equalizer. The 1000 bars on that are way stiffer than the bars on my 1000 rated Reese. I also have a Reese Round Bar hitch with 1,000 bars. They are about as stiff as the 1,000 Reese trunion bars. From what I have heard there are very few Reese bars that have ever failed when properly installed. I usually run bars that are proportional to the weight I am trying to transfer and therefore are somewhat "under rated" per what the hitch manufacturers are saying. I can only think that they are assuming you are going to transfer a lot more weight (with the implied stress) that what I am trying to transfer. With the heavy duty truck and the 8.1 litter gas engine over the front wheels, I do not need to transfer as much weight to keep the proper amount of weight on the front wheels and therefore I do not need to use as heavy duty bars as would be needed to transfer the maximum amount of weight. I would suggest: Be aware of the weights on all your wheels and pick a set of bars that will be in the weight rating that you are trying to transfer. Calling the manufacturer (not the dealer) might be a good place to start your conversation on just which part numbers you may need. With my little 3,800 pound Overlander I do not run bars at all.

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