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Old 09-30-2011, 07:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlanford View Post
Andy:

I currently have an Equalizer hitch (with 1,000 lb. bars) installed by the dealer where we recently bought our 2012 Airstream 25FB. I had no handling problems, but we popped two interior rivets on our first 3,000 mile trip. Would I also be better off with the Reese hitch with 600 lb. bars even though our tongue weight is over 1,000 lbs? And is the Reese hitch as easy to hitch/un-hitch as the Equalizer?
What type/kind of tow vehicle do you have?

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:11 AM   #22
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Andy, I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra Double-Cab w/5.7L engine and standard suspension.
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Old 09-30-2011, 10:33 AM   #23
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Hitch ratings and where to get advice.

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Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3 View Post
....................................

In doing research on this forum, I believe the hitch that came with the AS is an older model Reese dual cam wd hitch. It also appears that the expert recommendations, for a 3/4 ton truck and a 25' AS, have been to go with a trunnion bar that is in the 550 - 600# range vs. the 1200# bars that came with my AS.

.................................................. .....

Thank you for any help.
A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer. Those people are qualified to provide ratings and specifications for their products. There are at least a couple of such people on these forums. None of those have posted to this thread, nor are they likely to. Outside of those few, you will not receive expert advice on hitches on these forums. If you are confused by what rating bars etc, you need, the place to go is the manufacturer of the hitch. Of course, as pointed out above, first you need to know what total and tongue weight you are dealing with. Hitch ratings are no different or mystical that the ratings of any other mechanical product. If you weighed 300 lbs, would you climb a 150 lb rated ladder, because you wanted it to flex more while you climbed? I hope not. You will receive advice on these forums to use hitch components that are rated at less than your actual weights, because you have a heavy tow vehicle and an Airstream is a fragile trailer. That makes no more sense than driving a 8 ton truck over a 4 ton rated bridge. Sooner or later the truck is likely to end up in the river. Mechanical components used at over their ratings will flex more than designed and will fatigue and fail. Since there are safety margins built in to such designs, they likely won't immediately, but no manufacturer will stand behind their warranty if you are overloading their product beyond their ratings. The bottom line - proceed at your own risk, because those giving this advice are not going to be there when you have a problem.

Ken
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:56 PM   #24
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"A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer."





I'm no expert but I eat like one.

WADR

Not necessarily.

Again, the scales, trailer, TV and tongue weights are needed.

First how much weight are we trying to move?, the weight rating of the bars has nothing to do with how much the TV weighs.

No ladder or bridge equivalents needed.

The bars are designed to flex and as long as you are not trying to move more weight than they are rated for you won't be overtaxing anything. The only reason for WD is to transfer back the the steering axle a portion of the weight removed when you drop the tongue on the ball, and to do that with as little added stress to the trailer/TV as possible.
Most modern trucks/suv's are more lightly sprung than those of the past, but it is still important to realize that the stiffer you make the suspension the more likely the transfer of un-necessary shock and awe.

I'm done now.....thankfully.

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:50 PM   #25
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Andy, I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra Double-Cab w/5.7L engine and standard suspension.
To me, that's a ton of over kill.

I would still sugest the Reese 600 dual cam.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:58 PM   #26
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A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer. Those people are qualified to provide ratings and specifications for their products. There are at least a couple of such people on these forums. None of those have posted to this thread, nor are they likely to. Outside of those few, you will not receive expert advice on hitches on these forums. If you are confused by what rating bars etc, you need, the place to go is the manufacturer of the hitch. Of course, as pointed out above, first you need to know what total and tongue weight you are dealing with. Hitch ratings are no different or mystical that the ratings of any other mechanical product. If you weighed 300 lbs, would you climb a 150 lb rated ladder, because you wanted it to flex more while you climbed? I hope not. You will receive advice on these forums to use hitch components that are rated at less than your actual weights, because you have a heavy tow vehicle and an Airstream is a fragile trailer. That makes no more sense than driving a 8 ton truck over a 4 ton rated bridge. Sooner or later the truck is likely to end up in the river. Mechanical components used at over their ratings will flex more than designed and will fatigue and fail. Since there are safety margins built in to such designs, they likely won't immediately, but no manufacturer will stand behind their warranty if you are overloading their product beyond their ratings. The bottom line - proceed at your own risk, because those giving this advice are not going to be there when you have a problem.

Ken
Please be advised, that not a single hitch manufacturer has run "any" studies on what rating bars to use with an "AIRSTREAM".

What they all suggest is complete over kill, that slowly destroys the Airstream. Many owners here will so agree.

This then is not an opinion, but hard facts.

It's amazing what hitch manufacturers as well as tow vehicle manufacturers have specified, all because of liability.

Some hitch manufacturers even disregard the type tow vehicle for a given rated hitch.

I wonder what they would spec for a Peterbilt tow vehicle?

Again, the tow vehicle must be considered when selecting a hitch.

That was proven in the very early 70's by Caravanner Insurance company, who only insured many many thousands of Airstream and Argosy trailers.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 03:01 PM   #27
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The only reason for WD is to transfer back the the steering axle a portion of the weight removed when you drop the tongue on the ball, and to do that with as little added stress to the trailer/TV as possible. .

Bob

The only problem with what you are saying is that WD bars are not rated by how much weight they can distribute. They are rated by maximum tongue weight of the trailer. How does one intend to translate that into weight distributing rating. I contend the the only sure way to be safe is to make certain the rating of the bars is equal or greater to your trailers maximum tongue weight. That is what the manufacturer intends to be done. Anything else that is done is re-engineering the system with, in most cases ,no engineering license. Basically, you are just guessing it is going to be OK.

Ken
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:26 PM   #28
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"The only problem with what you are saying is that WD bars are not rated by how much weight they can distribute. They are rated by maximum tongue weight of the trailer."

Ken,

I don't believe thats true after all you are not trying to get to zero...
My own example….

Tongue weight 1125Lbs, of that I need to transfer 660 to the steering axle to get within 100Lbs of the unloaded weight. Why would I need the considerably stiffer 1200Lb bars to accomplish that safely?
It's only 660 Lbs not 1125 that I need to transfer.

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 05:52 PM   #29
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Im with ANDY and BOB. If you have an OLD STYLE Reese Dual Cam with 600 lb bars,I think thats 1" square at the trunion,that should be sufficant. We had an old reese set up with 1000 lb bars that came with the trailer at purchase.THOSE BARS liked to wrecked us gettin the trailer home. THE rebound of those bars was herendious and almost caused me to loose control on some uneven bridges on the interstate.
I was able to recover just because of my 45 yrs of driving skill hauling all kinds of things.
I never used those bars again. We have a monster 1 ton F350/7.3liter Diesel that comes in at 8000lbs full of fuel, and it was not originally intended to pull and AIRSTREAM.But its what we have and I hitch accordingly.
After 3 yrs of just short trips I have NO POPPED RIVITS and things stay put inside the coach and we get an ocean wave ride up front.
SPEND THE TIME and first take the TV to the scales full of fuel and passengers and then the loaded trailer,weighing each axle and then the whole rig. THEN make adjusts based on facts.
GOOD LUCK TO YOU
ROGER
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:33 PM   #30
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Talking Last Post

First of all, my purpose is not to convince anybody of anything.

My sole purpose of the first post was to be sure that the members with the original questions saw that this advice to use bars below their ratings was at least questionable.

I just got through visiting several hitch sites. Of those that addressed the issue, all said that hitch systems were rated for tongue weight and max trailer weight. for instance 1400/14000, 1000/10000, 600/6000, etc. They all said make sure not to exceed either number. Personally I am going to follow those rules and every time I see someone giving out advice saying that it is not necessary to follow those rules, I am going to make it known that this advice is not universally believed in and is contrary to hitch manufacturer's guidelines.

I an not in this discussion to prove or state it won't work. I am only attempting to show that it is not a practice sanctioned by hitch companies. If anyone wishes to operate that way then I want it to be well informed decision.

Unless someone comes up with a statement from a manufacturer that this is a safe and sanctioned practice, I am going to mention this each time I see that advice given out.

Personally I would not do it myself simply because people say it works for them and nothing has happened yet.

This is the last post I am going to make in this thread (I know everyone is saying thank goodness).

Sincerely, if someone can get a hitch company to say this is OK, I would very much like to see it.

Ken
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Old 09-30-2011, 09:13 PM   #31
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Well, first, I do have a mechanical engineering Degree from the University of Buffalo. No I do not design hitches but I do own three Reese hitches that have come with various trailers I have purchased. I have a one ton Dually which has fairly stiff suspension but I make it a little more flexible by under inflating the tires per the tire manufacturers recommendation for the number of pounds the tires are carrying rather than the max weight of the truck and trailer. I also own a Equalizer. The 1000 bars on that are way stiffer than the bars on my 1000 rated Reese. I also have a Reese Round Bar hitch with 1,000 bars. They are about as stiff as the 1,000 Reese trunion bars. From what I have heard there are very few Reese bars that have ever failed when properly installed. I usually run bars that are proportional to the weight I am trying to transfer and therefore are somewhat "under rated" per what the hitch manufacturers are saying. I can only think that they are assuming you are going to transfer a lot more weight (with the implied stress) that what I am trying to transfer. With the heavy duty truck and the 8.1 litter gas engine over the front wheels, I do not need to transfer as much weight to keep the proper amount of weight on the front wheels and therefore I do not need to use as heavy duty bars as would be needed to transfer the maximum amount of weight. I would suggest: Be aware of the weights on all your wheels and pick a set of bars that will be in the weight rating that you are trying to transfer. Calling the manufacturer (not the dealer) might be a good place to start your conversation on just which part numbers you may need. With my little 3,800 pound Overlander I do not run bars at all.
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