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Old 09-30-2011, 12:14 AM   #15
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I am a relatively new owner with 4 300-400 mile trips under my belt. My 1976 Caravanner has a older sway control system being towed with a 2010 GMC Yukon Hybrid. I calculate I'm towing about 5000 lbs.

What I've noticed is that with the worsening road conditions on interstate highways in Southern California, the trailer bounces all over the place. Even at 50-60 mph, under extreme conditions the trailer could conceivably loose control due to excessive sway. Especially when the road get rough, the trailer can start swaying very easily. I've found I can control this by varying my speed when I notice the trailer starting to sway.

This being the case, you might consider getting all the trailer/vehicle motion control aids you can reasonably afford. From what I'm observing those road conditions are not improving.

Just my thoughts.

WBa1
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlanford View Post
Andy:

I currently have an Equalizer hitch (with 1,000 lb. bars) installed by the dealer where we recently bought our 2012 Airstream 25FB. I had no handling problems, but we popped two interior rivets on our first 3,000 mile trip. Would I also be better off with the Reese hitch with 600 lb. bars even though our tongue weight is over 1,000 lbs? And is the Reese hitch as easy to hitch/un-hitch as the Equalizer?
Andy, I have a similiar situation except I have not popped any rivets. I have a new to me 2002 Safari 25. The rig came with a Reese hitch that I am not familiar with that has 1200# bars. It is probably the original hitch that came with the trailer. It has arms that swing down from the trailer frame plus spring arms with chain attachments.

I also own a Equalizer hitch with 1000# bars.

I am pulling the AS with a Chevy 2500. I pulled the trailer home ~300 miles when I bought it with the Reese hitch head and no other hitch attachments. It sat level and pulled great. I understand I need sway control but I am not sure I need weight distribution. I want to do what is best for the AS and peoples' safety. I am looking for hitch setup recommendations for my case.

Any help is welcome.
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wba1 View Post
I am a relatively new owner with 4 300-400 mile trips under my belt. My 1976 Caravanner has a older sway control system being towed with a 2010 GMC Yukon Hybrid. I calculate I'm towing about 5000 lbs.

What I've noticed is that with the worsening road conditions on interstate highways in Southern California, the trailer bounces all over the place. Even at 50-60 mph, under extreme conditions the trailer could conceivably loose control due to excessive sway. Especially when the road get rough, the trailer can start swaying very easily. I've found I can control this by varying my speed when I notice the trailer starting to sway.

This being the case, you might consider getting all the trailer/vehicle motion control aids you can reasonably afford. From what I'm observing those road conditions are not improving.

Just my thoughts.

WBa1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3 View Post
Andy, I have a similiar situation except I have not popped any rivets. I have a new to me 2002 Safari 25. The rig came with a Reese hitch that I am not familiar with that has 1200# bars. It is probably the original hitch that came with the trailer. It has arms that swing down from the trailer frame plus spring arms with chain attachments.

I also own a Equalizer hitch with 1000# bars.

I am pulling the AS with a Chevy 2500. I pulled the trailer home ~300 miles when I bought it with the Reese hitch head and no other hitch attachments. It sat level and pulled great. I understand I need sway control but I am not sure I need weight distribution. I want to do what is best for the AS and peoples' safety. I am looking for hitch setup recommendations for my case.

Any help is welcome.
I'm not Andy.....

IMHO.. the first order of business would be a trip to the scales to get some accurate numbers. It's very important to get a baseline to work from.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I'm not Andy.....

IMHO.. the first order of business would be a trip to the scales to get some accurate numbers. It's very important to get a baseline to work from.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...-in-17984.html

Bob
I agree, I do need to go to the scales. Thank you.

In doing research on this forum, I believe the hitch that came with the AS is an older model Reese dual cam wd hitch. It also appears that the expert recommendations, for a 3/4 ton truck and a 25' AS, have been to go with a trunnion bar that is in the 550 - 600# range vs. the 1200# bars that came with my AS.

Is anyone familiar with a link or a thread on a how to "for dummies" install and setup one of these older Resse dual cam wd hitches? My only hitch experience has been with an Equalizer hitch.

Thank you for any help.
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Old 09-30-2011, 07:26 AM   #19
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Thumbs up

Hope these links help.

Bob


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...hes-72197.html


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...est-76068.html


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...-up-73688.html


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...tch-70802.html
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3 View Post
Andy, I have a similiar situation except I have not popped any rivets. I have a new to me 2002 Safari 25. The rig came with a Reese hitch that I am not familiar with that has 1200# bars. It is probably the original hitch that came with the trailer. It has arms that swing down from the trailer frame plus spring arms with chain attachments.

I also own a Equalizer hitch with 1000# bars.

I am pulling the AS with a Chevy 2500. I pulled the trailer home ~300 miles when I bought it with the Reese hitch head and no other hitch attachments. It sat level and pulled great. I understand I need sway control but I am not sure I need weight distribution. I want to do what is best for the AS and peoples' safety. I am looking for hitch setup recommendations for my case.

Any help is welcome.
Since you have a super heavy duty tow vehicle, you should use lighter bars, so that you don't punish the trailer.

I think a Reese dual cam 600 pound load equalizing hitch would work just fine for you.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 08:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wlanford View Post
Andy:

I currently have an Equalizer hitch (with 1,000 lb. bars) installed by the dealer where we recently bought our 2012 Airstream 25FB. I had no handling problems, but we popped two interior rivets on our first 3,000 mile trip. Would I also be better off with the Reese hitch with 600 lb. bars even though our tongue weight is over 1,000 lbs? And is the Reese hitch as easy to hitch/un-hitch as the Equalizer?
What type/kind of tow vehicle do you have?

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:11 AM   #22
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Andy, I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra Double-Cab w/5.7L engine and standard suspension.
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Old 09-30-2011, 11:33 AM   #23
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Hitch ratings and where to get advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3 View Post
....................................

In doing research on this forum, I believe the hitch that came with the AS is an older model Reese dual cam wd hitch. It also appears that the expert recommendations, for a 3/4 ton truck and a 25' AS, have been to go with a trunnion bar that is in the 550 - 600# range vs. the 1200# bars that came with my AS.

.................................................. .....

Thank you for any help.
A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer. Those people are qualified to provide ratings and specifications for their products. There are at least a couple of such people on these forums. None of those have posted to this thread, nor are they likely to. Outside of those few, you will not receive expert advice on hitches on these forums. If you are confused by what rating bars etc, you need, the place to go is the manufacturer of the hitch. Of course, as pointed out above, first you need to know what total and tongue weight you are dealing with. Hitch ratings are no different or mystical that the ratings of any other mechanical product. If you weighed 300 lbs, would you climb a 150 lb rated ladder, because you wanted it to flex more while you climbed? I hope not. You will receive advice on these forums to use hitch components that are rated at less than your actual weights, because you have a heavy tow vehicle and an Airstream is a fragile trailer. That makes no more sense than driving a 8 ton truck over a 4 ton rated bridge. Sooner or later the truck is likely to end up in the river. Mechanical components used at over their ratings will flex more than designed and will fatigue and fail. Since there are safety margins built in to such designs, they likely won't immediately, but no manufacturer will stand behind their warranty if you are overloading their product beyond their ratings. The bottom line - proceed at your own risk, because those giving this advice are not going to be there when you have a problem.

Ken
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Old 09-30-2011, 01:56 PM   #24
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"A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer."





I'm no expert but I eat like one.

WADR

Not necessarily.

Again, the scales, trailer, TV and tongue weights are needed.

First how much weight are we trying to move?, the weight rating of the bars has nothing to do with how much the TV weighs.

No ladder or bridge equivalents needed.

The bars are designed to flex and as long as you are not trying to move more weight than they are rated for you won't be overtaxing anything. The only reason for WD is to transfer back the the steering axle a portion of the weight removed when you drop the tongue on the ball, and to do that with as little added stress to the trailer/TV as possible.
Most modern trucks/suv's are more lightly sprung than those of the past, but it is still important to realize that the stiffer you make the suspension the more likely the transfer of un-necessary shock and awe.

I'm done now.....thankfully.

Bob
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:50 PM   #25
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Andy, I have a 2011 Toyota Tundra Double-Cab w/5.7L engine and standard suspension.
To me, that's a ton of over kill.

I would still sugest the Reese 600 dual cam.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 02:58 PM   #26
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A hitch expert is someone who is or has been involved in the manufacture and design of hitches. Hopefully they would be a mechanical engineer. Those people are qualified to provide ratings and specifications for their products. There are at least a couple of such people on these forums. None of those have posted to this thread, nor are they likely to. Outside of those few, you will not receive expert advice on hitches on these forums. If you are confused by what rating bars etc, you need, the place to go is the manufacturer of the hitch. Of course, as pointed out above, first you need to know what total and tongue weight you are dealing with. Hitch ratings are no different or mystical that the ratings of any other mechanical product. If you weighed 300 lbs, would you climb a 150 lb rated ladder, because you wanted it to flex more while you climbed? I hope not. You will receive advice on these forums to use hitch components that are rated at less than your actual weights, because you have a heavy tow vehicle and an Airstream is a fragile trailer. That makes no more sense than driving a 8 ton truck over a 4 ton rated bridge. Sooner or later the truck is likely to end up in the river. Mechanical components used at over their ratings will flex more than designed and will fatigue and fail. Since there are safety margins built in to such designs, they likely won't immediately, but no manufacturer will stand behind their warranty if you are overloading their product beyond their ratings. The bottom line - proceed at your own risk, because those giving this advice are not going to be there when you have a problem.

Ken
Please be advised, that not a single hitch manufacturer has run "any" studies on what rating bars to use with an "AIRSTREAM".

What they all suggest is complete over kill, that slowly destroys the Airstream. Many owners here will so agree.

This then is not an opinion, but hard facts.

It's amazing what hitch manufacturers as well as tow vehicle manufacturers have specified, all because of liability.

Some hitch manufacturers even disregard the type tow vehicle for a given rated hitch.

I wonder what they would spec for a Peterbilt tow vehicle?

Again, the tow vehicle must be considered when selecting a hitch.

That was proven in the very early 70's by Caravanner Insurance company, who only insured many many thousands of Airstream and Argosy trailers.

Andy
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Old 09-30-2011, 04:01 PM   #27
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The only reason for WD is to transfer back the the steering axle a portion of the weight removed when you drop the tongue on the ball, and to do that with as little added stress to the trailer/TV as possible. .

Bob

The only problem with what you are saying is that WD bars are not rated by how much weight they can distribute. They are rated by maximum tongue weight of the trailer. How does one intend to translate that into weight distributing rating. I contend the the only sure way to be safe is to make certain the rating of the bars is equal or greater to your trailers maximum tongue weight. That is what the manufacturer intends to be done. Anything else that is done is re-engineering the system with, in most cases ,no engineering license. Basically, you are just guessing it is going to be OK.

Ken
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Old 09-30-2011, 06:26 PM   #28
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"The only problem with what you are saying is that WD bars are not rated by how much weight they can distribute. They are rated by maximum tongue weight of the trailer."

Ken,

I don't believe thats true after all you are not trying to get to zero...
My own example….

Tongue weight 1125Lbs, of that I need to transfer 660 to the steering axle to get within 100Lbs of the unloaded weight. Why would I need the considerably stiffer 1200Lb bars to accomplish that safely?
It's only 660 Lbs not 1125 that I need to transfer.

Bob
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