Thanks...i'm just anxious
I planned on buying the HA next month but I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Will there be a network of authorized dealers that will install your new units?
Thanks...i'm just anxious
I planned on buying the HA next month but I guess I'll have to wait and see.
Will there be a network of authorized dealers that will install your new units?
I haven't contacted any dealers at this point. I'm sure the dealer side of the business will build slowly like it has done with the Arrow.
It is really simple to install for the end user or any RV dealership could do the install.
please...just post the pictures and the moderators can figure it out later!
Attached are the pictures you requested...
Anyone familiar with the haha (you know I can't resist calling it that now 2air') will notice differences.
A few of them are...
No strut bars. There is not a large force on a frame bracket that will allow it to slip.
Adjustable hitch bar to match all TV/TT combinations.
No grease fittings. There is a grease zerk permanently installed in the outside of the spring bar housing. We do not use spring loaded fittings to hold in the spring bars.
The main head is 20 pounds lighter than the haha while the control links are actually thicker (3/4").
2000 pound Atwood jacks that loads directly down on the frame for weight distribution. It does not hang outside the frame like on the haha. With the end of the spring bars being 2+" closer together, toward the tongue of the trailer, we're able to use more of the capacity of the bar for weight distribution.
Sean, are there any clearance problems with your hitch and the spare tire or the metal storage behind the bottle cover on Airstreams?
Dwight
We are using a spacer on this prototype to get below the storage box so there aren't any clearance issues. I'm thinking of shortening the yoke for an Airstream install so the bracket it attaches to will be in front of the storage box.
I have removed the battery doors on my trailer, so the stuts could move further to the rear. I also wouldn't mind having the yoke as far back as it could from a structural view side. Could you offer different versions to fit various trailer tongues? From your photos, if the crossbar fits ahead of the storage box and the struts are closer to the trailer body it would seem to be a good structural setup and still allow the spare tire to drop down.
Does this hitch remove the "Hensley bump"?
Dwight
__________________ History doesn't repeat itself, people do!
I have removed the battery doors on my trailer, so the stuts could move further to the rear. I also wouldn't mind having the yoke as far back as it could from a structural view side. Could you offer different versions to fit various trailer tongues? From your photos, if the crossbar fits ahead of the storage box and the struts are closer to the trailer body it would seem to be a good structural setup and still allow the spare tire to drop down.
Does this hitch remove the "Hensley bump"?
Dwight
Yes, I will have to have different versions for the different configurations. It is all in determining the length of the yoke and placing the frame bracket that it inserts into.
I have been able to produce the bump at speeds that are way too fast for "normal" towing and by unplugging the brakes. I believe it is less likely to occur with the new design because the forces on the yoke are more inline than forces on the struts in the old design.
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