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Old 08-11-2015, 08:31 PM   #15
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I had this happen only once and It really worried me since it didn't happen until after nearly 2000 Miles of trip. My Stinger has jack screws in nuts welded on the bar to tighten the shank in the truck receiver. I tighten them and it cleared up. I was not experienced enough at the time to consider the cam locks, and when we got home I found I needed to adjust the cams to pull in a bit tighter. Never had noise since.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:57 PM   #16
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If I was getting an unexpected noise from something as important as the hitch I'd probably take it to the dealer and have them check it out. Most likely it is as people here have mentioned, but what if it is something that isn't as tight as it ought to be that is a little more out of sight?

That said, you can do a lot of checking yourself at home. Before hooking up the trailer check that the hitch assembly on the TV is absolutely tight. There should be NO movement at all. Then check the non-moving parts on the coach for any movement. I'm talking about the hitch components that should not be moving. Finally hook up the coach and TV and try to find any movement where it shouldn't be. After the coach is on the ball and latched, can you raise the rear of the TV by raising the tongue, or does the coach come unhooked?

As a final do-it-yourself check, take the RV and coach to a deserted parking lot. Have a spotter or two along, and try to duplicate the noise there. Of course you will have to keep your speed down to walking speed so your spotters can keep up.

Oh yes, you DO have the correct size hitch ball, don't you?

Most likely this is nothing, but you wouldn't be the first person to find a problem that was waiting to happen.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:20 PM   #17
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A related post from a similar thread on Open Roads Forum can be found here.

Mr. Hensley discussed this problem in one of his patents.

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Old 08-11-2015, 09:33 PM   #18
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I don't know how different the Cub is from the Arrow or ProPride but I was under the impression those last 2 are subject to the (in)famous "Hensley Bump" which is attributed to the trailer brakes engaging with or even after the TV brakes. The solution is to ensure your brake controller engages before your TV brakes. I consider myself fortunate to not have yet experienced it with my PP in our 3rd year with it. It was a concern for me but with the proper brake controller setup it can be avoided.

If the Cub is actually a different mechanism, this might not apply.

And for the record, if Ron G (who posted earlier) disagrees with this assessment, I would totally yield to his opinion - he's studied this FAR more deeply than I have.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:47 AM   #19
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Loud "Thunk" - 4Runner and Hensley Cub

But he's also never used one. Or a TT with this level of aerodynamic design and suspension sophistication.

It's a non-issue in the main once one has properly set hitch linkage and where the brake controller leads the TV in application pressure.

All trailers present a problem when they want to pass the tow vehicle. 5ers included. A VPP hitch has its moments of weakness at the same times in the same situations (primarily on descents). So what? It's part of the learning curve in towing to adjust for this.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:03 AM   #20
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This is not the Hensley Bump. Totally different situation.

In regard to the person talking about doing an in-depth inspection, while a good idea in theory, much of the advise given is not really accurate or realistic.

Plus, I would not personally trust a "dealer" to give me a lot of safety advise. My experience, most dealership personnel have little more experience than installing a hitch, and moving it to a parking space when they are done.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philipsinewe View Post
This is not the Hensley Bump. Totally different situation.

Can you say more? What do you think it is? Thanks.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:28 AM   #22
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The bump is from the trailer moving forward as you are breaking, in a turn. In that situation, the trailer hitch has "play" and if your trailer brakes are not set properly, the trailer thumps forward. It, in part happens on all trailers, in that the trailer is pushing forward. Thus trailer brakes are important to be set aggressive on all trailers. With the Hensley you also get that thump. You clearly need to be aware of it.

What this original thread is referring to is the hitch bar "popping" in the receiver box at low speed. No big deal at all. I find all the "fixes" kind of silly, for me, it reminds me that I have a very nice hitch, and that I have 10,000 pounds that's wants to sit in the passenger seat with me. But to each his own.
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Old 08-12-2015, 03:56 PM   #23
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That explains why I set my Prodigy II controller to boost 1 or boost 2 depending upon terrain. That pretty much eliminates bumps from weak trailer braking. Much more aggressive braking curve this way.


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Old 08-13-2015, 07:30 AM   #24
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So I emailed Hensley about the use of rattle reducers, and here is their response:

Byron,

We don't have a specific recommendation on using such a tightener. Usually
any noise created in the receiver can be mitigated by spraying silicone
spray inside the receiver so it will move a little easier without creating
noise.

Any sound created in the vehicle receiver will not alter the function or
performance of the Hensley Hitch so its up to you if you decide to tighten
it up.

Having ruled out everything else, and seeing how common the 'rattle' is, I am comfortable that this is what I, as a newbie to towing, am experiencing. I like the lubricant idea is general, so will start with that and then perhaps add a specific device.

Thanks to all - I learned something.
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Old 08-13-2015, 01:53 PM   #25
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The $22.95 anti-rattle device certainly cannot hurt anything.
Without it, the shank will wiggle around and start to distort/elongate the pin hole.
With it, no worries.
Seems like you would still get the "Hensley bump" braking, backing, or staring from a standing stop due to the design of the hitch.


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Old 08-13-2015, 02:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
The $22.95 anti-rattle device certainly cannot hurt anything.
Without it, the shank will wiggle around and start to distort/elongate the pin hole.
With it, no worries.
Seems like you would still get the "Hensley bump" braking, backing, or staring from a standing stop due to the design of the hitch.


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If you're talking about the stinger moving around and clunking in the receiver due to not much WD "binding" it in place, I agree......but that's not the "bump".

It takes a pretty hard braking event, in a (minimum) slight turn to get the bump. It is caused by "over-rotation" by the swing arms, for lack of a better term. Tight bearings (all 8 of them) will help minimize it dramatically. I've only experienced it 3 times, all during hard braking and some steering input to head for an escape route, if needed. Struts need to be adjusted for centering of the head and box and need to be pretty firmly under compression.
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:08 AM   #27
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Try a Hitch-Vise. http://hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm
I have one that I use on my bike carrier and it really stops all movement of the shank in the receiver.
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