Looking for the right hitch

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by Daquenzer

I have a 28' so it's a bit longer. I used a Blue Ox, and would have no sway. It was doable. The problem was not sway but how it handled. In traffic (trucks and vans passing) the bow affect would shift the trailer first, and then the TV. This would make driving very uncomfortable in heavy traffic. So I bought a Propride. Expensive. But I figured if I'm going to own this rig and drive it I might as well enjoy it. I drove 2 hours in traffic through Milwaukee and Chicago this Spring. The handling was great. I still got a push from trucks, but not nearly has bad or as exhausting driving since everything would move together.

I have no idea how a 22' will handle in the same situation. I can only share my experience. Lots of people on this forum drive with different hitches and do just fine. And honestly the Blue Ox was just fine on typical roads. But it didn't handle as well in high traffic situations.

Big decision.

I regularly drive through Chicago, Atlanta and Miami. I also generally travel on Interstates between 72 and 75 when traffic and weather conditions allow. I do that using a Blue Ox. In three years I haven't had any sway issues under any situations and that includes one very hairy crash avoidance.
I paid $ 700.00, it did not come with 23 pages of instructions and installed it in under an hour. It takes minutes to hook up. Considering price performance and ease of use it beats a Hensley and Pro Pride hands down.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

I've read dozens of posts on multiple forums from people who traded SOB hitches for a ProPride or Hensley who state they will never go back due to the improved stability of the trailer.

I've read precisely 1 post of a guy who returned his ProPride.

ProPride method of applying WD is probably the easiest to dial in and get the EXACT tension you want.

I have no idea why FranklyFrank thinks the hitch is complicated. I find it very easy to use. Yes, more to the design - but that doesn't impact use. You need to decide the value

Added benefits, unless you have the correct stinger, you can't hook up to the trailer and haul it away, unless you first remove the hitch. Also, there is a bit more distance between the TV and trailer. On pickups, you will undoubtedly be able to drop your tailgate without banging into the tongue jack.

In my mind, the Hensley design is the third generation of hitch. World has gone from just a ball, then added various sway control devices and finally the Hensley design completely prevents pivoting at the ball unless induced by the TV. Similar to improvements in vehicle steering systems and braking.

In the end, you need to decide the price/value trade-offs you are willing to live up with.

Here is a lab test of the Hensley design with a setup that is intended to induce sway.

Your suggestion that only the Pro Pride or Hensley provide complete sway control is misleading and incorrect. There are a number of other hitches out there that work just as well.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

Your suggestion that only the Pro Pride or Hensley provide complete sway control is misleading and incorrect. There are a number of other hitches out there that work just as well.

There are a number of hitches that provide WD and SC in various ways - many of which are perfectly good at what they do if set up properly and tuned correctly as part of a full system of TV, TT and Hitch.

That the Hensley design does the work differently and actually prevents sway rather than reacts to it is just a fact. Not better or worse than anything that works for you. Just different in design and work.

Bad analogy here - but I remember when all the tobacco execs appeared before Congress saying "I believe nicotine is not addictive." Let's say for sake of argument, they weren't lying through their teeth to protect their trillion dollar interests. Regardless of what they "believe" - the scientific fact is that nicotine is an addictive drug. So it goes with these hitches. It doesn't matter what one believes about them, they all do good work, they all operate on different principles, and the physics behind the Hensley design makes a sway incident all but impossible before it happens, rather than reacting to one after it starts. Not a good thing, not a bad thing - just a different thing. For that perceived benefit, there are downsides like higher initial cost, learning curve for operation, and weight penalty. No perfect answer for every rig. Choose what works best for you. Happy camping!

[sbowman]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I regularly drive through Chicago, Atlanta and Miami. I also generally travel on Interstates between 72 and 75 when traffic and weather conditions allow. I do that using a Blue Ox. In three years I haven't had any sway issues under any situations and that includes one very hairy crash avoidance.
I paid $ 700.00, it did not come with 23 pages of instructions and installed it in under an hour. It takes minutes to hook up. Considering price performance and ease of use it beats a Hensley and Pro Pride hands down.

Well said.

[PKI]

The issue with hitch selection is the same issue that haunts most of the actions folks do. We do something over and over with no bad result. That does not mean it is a safe act. In the case of a hitch, you can travel a lot of miles with no problem. However, all it takes is the right or rather wrong conditions and you get an excursion. The factors - speed, wind, bow-waves, emergency braking, curves, sway reaction ...... you can control much, but not all. Control what you can and be safe for next adventure.

The EQ and kin - used by many - easy to install - a bit tricky to setup as it requires a head adjustment, but it's primary negative is that the spring bars are stiff. The lack of flexibility transfers shock and force to the AS. The AS is designed with a fexible frame. The EQ works better with SOBs that have stiff frames. It is a friction design, but reasonably well done in that there are multiple surfaces that create friction. If you go with this hitch, take transitions with extreme care.

The Reese dualcam - Lots use the design with good result. Not difficult to install. Takes some knowledge to setup correctly. The only issue that I have read is uneven response when not set up correctly or when a part is broken. It is a spring design and amplifies force in a turn. Look at some of the Inland RV threads to get more background.

The Blue Ox Sway Pro is a good general compromise. Reasonable price, easy to install and reasonably effective. The hazard is the significant force stored as a preload in the spring bars. The OEM wrench is poor and best replaced with extended socket breaker bar and six point impact socket. Stay away from the chains when tensioning and releasing. Use tongue jack to relieve spring force before releasing. The one issue is that bar selection makes a big jump from 1K to 1.5K when a mid-point would help in tuning. Sway is controlled with spring force, but is limited unless sufficent weight transfer force is applied.

The PPP design hitches use link geometry to prevent the coach from turning while allowing the TV to turn. It is a unique design that does not use spring force or friction to control sway. It has many issues, but none that are beyond the ability of all but a few to use. The cost is the primary issue. It's about what replacing a coach panel will cost you. The tongue weight may or may not be an issue, but should be understood. Not all TVs have the same receiver capacity and reinforcement can be the solution to resolve.

To say that PPP is best is a parallel to the performance of summer/winter tires to all season tires. Not a perfect one, but similar. For most, the AS work best. They are less expensive and function well. The performance tires do better. Slow down a bit and it makes little difference. In extremes it does make a difference. Understand that all RV decisions are a compromise. A long wheelbase is better than a short one until you can't turn around or get into a tight site. A tall truck is worse than a short one. A light vehicle is not as stable as a heavier one unless the suspension is a compromised design. Big brakes are great until they have to stop a lot of mass because the rig is oversize. Exhaust brake is convenient until it does not apply the trailer brakes in a sway event. Lots of issues with poor weather - black ice - stay parked. So make your compromises with knowledge and consideration.

Do not purchase the Andersen - see defacement of arch thread - but it's a bad solution and others are better. If you need a low cost solution, get the Eaz-Lift with brake pad sway control struts. It's $250, works reasonably and will hold the ball close for minimal overhang. The spring bars are flexible enough for the AS design. This is a friction sway control design and may need adjustment to back up in a sharp turn. Easy to do.

The F2 is an EQ clone. If you use, reinforce the A-frame brackets with extra clamping bolts, lock nuts and ongoing maintenance checks. Take care not to back too tight.

Lots of solutions. Lots of fixes. No hitch will last forever without maintenance. RVing is a participant sport.

Yes, opinionated - you are entitled to yours as well. Do the research and act from knowledge and analysis, not your BIL's or the dealer's opinion.

Travel safe - Pat

[bono]

I have never towed with another hitch, so cannot compare. But given the size of the trailer (33 ft) and how comfortable the towing with my inadequate TV (BMW X5) is, ProPride is great.

PKI provided great summary IMO. A long wheelbase can be better than shorter one. Heavier TV can be better than lighter. Life is full of choices. A truck was not, is not and will not be my choice. I have ProPride instead and it provides the required stability.

[Sam George]

Thanks for all the comments and advice. As a newcomer to pulling an AS, I needed to get insight from those with experience. I had hoped to hear from someone with a similar TV/AS combination, but still helpful to hear from all. Much to ponder and still some research to do before I tow for the first time.

[AirstreamCSH]

We pull a 25FB on an equalizer hitch with a 2018 F250. Some say you don’t need sway control with an F250 and others say it’s fine to pull a 30’ with an Astrovan that CanAm has sprinkled fairy dust on.

We have all been in your shoes. One positive with your situation is the 22 is fairly light and forgiving. More than half the battle with sway is avoiding the circumstances that induce it and knowing the signs should it happen along with the proper action to respond to it. Any of these hitches will do but the Equalizer is probably the simplest and most cost effective.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/how-equalizer-works

[gandttimes]

Totally agree.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I have towed my one and only trailer for over 13 years with the same hitch, and the same tow vehicle for the first 11 years, and another tow vehicle for the past few years. I have towed in weather conditions where most everyone on this forum would have stayed at home. My two longest trips were to (1.) Alaska for 50 days and over 10,000 miles. And (2.) cross country for 3 1/2 months and over 13,000 miles.

"In all of this time, my trailer has only once, swayed violently out of control; It was parked in my driveway during a 5.0 Earthquake."

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Frank, you have an absolute right to express your opinion in a polite manner, as do I.

So kindly do not expect me to “give it a rest” when, as others have pointed out, the Hensley design hitches are really ‘third generation’ improvements over other hitch systems. They are, in my and other’s opinion, no more difficult or complicated than other systems, save a bare ball with no WD or sway reduction.

It isn’t guilt, cost, complexity, or anything other than basic engineering principles that make Hensley designs superior. Physics and mechanics are not going to change this superiority. As others have pointed out, many Airstream trailers come at costs in the range of 5-6 figures. A Hensley design is a small fraction of that cost. I believe that trying to use a lesser hitch system is “penny wise, and pound foolish”.

“That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it ...”

The same old dogwhistle. Your AS cost a lot of money so you have to have the safest And most expensiveyadi yada. Not necessarily the same thing. FYI, if I can afford a 30' Classic I can certainly afford an overpriced hitch. The very first hitch I considered was a Hensley. I viewed the video and thought there has got to be a better way than try to back on to a stinger.
I backed up to a lot of trailers over the years and know better than willfully complicate my life. My AS came with a Propride on it. When I seen that contraption hanging on the front of it I sad take it off, keep it. The same reason I wouldnt run around with the AS recommended bike rack on my trailer, it looks like a clothes drying rack. And that my friend is MY story and I am sticking to it.
Like Obama said, you want to keep your Propride You can keep it. Oh wait I am mixing things up here, never mind.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

The same old dogwhistle. Your AS cost a lot of money so you have to have the safest And most expensiveyadi yada. Not necessarily the same thing. FYI, if I can afford a 30' Classic I can certainly afford an overpriced hitch. The very first hitch I considered was a Hensley. I viewed the video and thought there has got to be a better way than try to back on to a stinger.
I backed up to a lot of trailers over the years and know better than willfully complicate my life. My AS came with a Propride on it. When I seen that contraption hanging on the front of it I sad take it off, keep it. The same reason I wouldnt run around with the AS recommended bike rack on my trailer, it looks like a clothes drying rack. And that my friend is MY story and I am sticking to it.
Like Obama said, you want to keep your Propride You can keep it. Oh wait I am mixing things up here, never mind.

And I suspect that when you bought your last TV, you told the dealer to make a few modifications:

1. remove the disc brakes, they are complicated and add to the cost. Drum brakes work just fine.
2. remove the power steering, it adds to the cost and complexity, a big steering wheel will do the job.
3. remove the power assist from the brakes, it adds complexity and cost.
4. change my tires to bias ply, they are tried and true.
5. pull out the air conditioning, it adds weight, cost, and complexity....

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by franklyfrank

I regularly drive through Chicago, Atlanta and Miami. I also generally travel on Interstates between 72 and 75 when traffic and weather conditions allow. I do that using a Blue Ox. In three years I haven't had any sway issues under any situations and that includes one very hairy crash avoidance.
I paid $ 700.00, it did not come with 23 pages of instructions and installed it in under an hour. It takes minutes to hook up. Considering price performance and ease of use it beats a Hensley and Pro Pride hands down.

Well that’s wonderful! Just not my experience.

[franklyfrank]

Originally Posted by SailorSam205

And I suspect that when you bought your last TV, you told the dealer to make a few modifications:

1. remove the disc brakes, they are complicated and add to the cost. Drum brakes work just fine.
2. remove the power steering, it adds to the cost and complexity, a big steering wheel will do the job.
3. remove the power assist from the brakes, it adds complexity and cost.
4. change my tires to bias ply, they are tried and true.
5. pull out the air conditioning, it adds weight, cost, and complexity....

That's the most idiotic response ever.
You have a serious comprehension issue if that's your interpretation of my post.

[slowmover]

We can film any rig w/o a Hensley-patent hitch and find CONSTANT side-to-side of the TT. Constant misalignment. Same as with no integrated antisway hitch whatsoever, just reduced periodicity.

Of course, using a TV wrongly-spec’d, it also can’t be felt at the steering wheel. This is what the OP should note when claims are made about hitch adequacy. Can’t feel it = it doesn’t happen (or it’s too minor to note).

Except that it DOES matter, such as a snaking narrow lane into and out of Interstate construction, barriers at lanes edge. Add wind or rain. Knowing the TT will track EXACTLY makes the above (and plenty of other scenarios) FAR easier.

I used a Dual Cam more than thirty years. And the Hensley the past dozen.

You can no more shake the trailer loose than you can lose your shadow. Versus the wrong flick of the wrist with a superceded hitch, and now the trailer is in another lane.

The old hitch types dampen the motion of the return, as well as having slowed the original misalignment. The TT may swing past center point before returning to center. A few hundred pounds of force is all that’s available. The old hitches DON’T prevent it. The driver MUST take immediate, remedial action. Literal definition of an emergency.

Versus with the Hensley design where one can be FAR more precise in placing both TV and TT where one wants in a lane. No Kentucky windage needed.

The Hensley design replicates the fifth wheel hitch advantage as to sway, and improves it in regard to keeping the lane. It easier to calculate where the trailer will be thru a curve. Wind and passing traffic won’t change it. One need only worry about the effect on the TV.

I can do maneuvers — all day long — at speeds that will roll over smaller & lighter rigs with obsolete hitches.

The hitch design is JUST as important as that of either the TV or the TT (and that any of them are properly set up. Something else missing with the, “I got my magic one ton pickup” crowd. Wrong tool, but willfull ignorance is par for the RV crowd in general. Wrong setup, as humility is also in short supply).

I always thought the acquisition of new skills was part of the challenge of RV’ng. A half-century plus hasn’t changed that. Things change. Problem-solving.

So, OP, have a look for contempt: we hauled construction trailers (farm trailers, etc) in our business.

So?

1) Was the trailer floor three feet off the ground?

No

2) Was this on thousand mile trips, away from familiar roads, crowds and climate?

No

3) Did the other trailers have a sail area in any way comparable to an AS?

No

4) And, by the way, what’s the primary factor in a loss-of-control accident?

Driver error? (Nope, adverse winds. Driver error is over-correction. Secondary).

But; if the TT is essentially unaffected by crosswind . . . .


.

[Mollysdad]

Note to self:
Don't read any more hitch threads.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by mollysdad

note to self:
Don't read any more hitch threads.

x2

[overlander63]

For the record:
Sam purchased a Blue Ox Sway Pro 750 with the extra-tall drop bar (needed for his receiver mounting location).

[bono]

Sam stopped reading hitch threads in wrong moment.

Originally Posted by overlander63

For the record:
Sam purchased a Blue Ox Sway Pro 750 with the extra-tall drop bar (needed for his receiver mounting location).

[sbowman]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Note to self:
Don't read any more hitch threads.

A breath of fresh air. Thank you.