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Old 08-24-2014, 08:44 AM   #57
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I towed the 25FB with a Hensley hitch with both a Mercedes and the Dodge.

The Classic arrived at the dealership and I decided to take it to the storage unit to install the PP when it arrived from Sean. Thus I towed it home just on the ball at much less that the posted 65 mph on the freeway. Since the truck has a level ride air bag suspension, the truck was level with no WD system. The trailer did wag some when the semi trucks blew past. The Cummins diesel loaded the front axle pretty well so the steering was not negatively impacted.

After the PPP was installed, the driving experience was just like with the Mercedes towing the 25FB with the Hensley. Steady in the winds and truck passing is a desirable feature for me.

At best, there is about a 300 pound transfer to the front axle with the PP. The difference between 4,500 and 4,800 pounds on the front axle is negligible.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:49 AM   #58
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Okay so I'm a little lost....

I went this AM and jumped on a Transport Canada weight Scale.

First a little background
My truck is a 2013 F150 with a 5.0 engine and 3.55 rear-end
GCWR: 13,500 lbs
GVWR: 7350 lbs
Max Payload: 1242 lbs

First Trip:
Went with the truck alone (full fuel) and here are my weights:
Truck Front Axle: 1590kg > 3505 lbs
Truck Back Axle: 1290 Kg > 2844 lbs
-------------------------------------------
Second Trip:
Hooked up the trailer (2013, 28' flying cloud) and here are the results:
Truck Front axle: 1530kg > 3373 lbs
Truck Rear Axle: 1770 kg > 3902 lbs

Trailer Axles: 2680kg > 5908 lbs
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Now I can get my head around the truck axle numbers changing with the trailer hooked on as my ProPride hitch is doing its job and distributing some of the trailer weights to the truck axles. I'm just not sure if it's doing it correctly, as my front axle got lighter (-132 lbs) and the back axle got heavier (+1058)?
Do these weigh differentials sound about right?
So does this tell me I have a hitch weight of 926 lbs? (1058-132)

For context, the stated weights of my trailer are as follows:
Stated base weight: 5979 lbs
Stated GVWR: 7600 lbs
Stated hitch weight: 976 lbs

Yet the trailer is weighing in 71 lbs under the stated base weight. This should not be possible, as the trailer was full of water and had our normal things that we leave in it all the time. (dishes, pots, bedding etc.) So it should have weighed more than the "base weight" not less?

In the end, Im trying to figure out if my truck is safe to pull this trailer? Or should I be looking at changing it out for something heavier. Changing TV is not my first option as this truck is only a year old and Ill take a beating as it only has 62,000 km on it.

Any input of comments into the above would be GREAT!

Thanks

Doug
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:25 AM   #59
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The total weight of your trailer is:

(5908+3373+3902)-(3505+2844) = 6834

The total hitch weight (depending on someones definition) is technically the total of what your truck is seeing but some is being distributed forward.

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that more should be moved forward. Lighter front drive wheels doesn't sound right to me.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:37 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cory_can View Post
The total weight of your trailer is:

(5908+3373+3902)-(3505+2844) = 6834

The total hitch weight (depending on someones definition) is technically the total of what your truck is seeing but some is being distributed forward.

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that more should be moved forward. Lighter front drive wheels doesn't sound right to me.
Thanks very much for this Cory! I was wondering the same, as front axle has gotten lighter and i'm not sure if that is good or not.
Thanks again

Doug
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:50 AM   #61
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So if I'm figuring this out right - here is how the numbers are working out on my rig:

Truck Base weight (fueled): 6371
Add 825 lbs for (passenger, generator, truck shell, tools, hitch stinger, golf clubs, misc)

TOTAL truck travel weight: 7170
------------------------------
Trailer weight with water: 6834lbs
------------------------------

Truck GCWR: 13,500 - 7170 (actual truck weight) = 6330 weight remaining.

So with actual trailer weight being 6834 that looks like I'm 500 lbs overweight before I add food and cloths into the trailer.
Is this correct?

Thanks
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:23 AM   #62
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Hi Doug

A couple of things. First there is plenty of overbuild in an F150 so you could likely drive it 25000 miles as it is and never have a problem. You are within your axle ratings and well within tire capacity. Still it would be nice to move more weight forward. You can do that by adding more downward angle to the PP shank.

We sometimes make changes to reduce hitch weight on some Airstreams but I don't think it is necessary on yours.

Andrew T

Have we welded the extra piece of steel on your shank?
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:33 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
Hi Doug

A couple of things. First there is plenty of overbuild in an F150 so you could likely drive it 25000 miles as it is and never have a problem. You are within your axle ratings and well within tire capacity. Still it would be nice to move more weight forward. You can do that by adding more downward angle to the PP shank.

We sometimes make changes to reduce hitch weight on some Airstreams but I don't think it is necessary on yours.

Andrew T

Have we welded the extra piece of steel on your shank?
Thanks VERY MUCH for this Andrew!
Your input it invaluable!

Just so I understand - to add a little more weight to my front axles I would raise the back end of the truck up by raising the distribution bars on the hitch?

Do you have a guess how much I should move it?

sorry Extra piece on shank - don't know anything about this. Can you articulate what piece your asking about?

Thanks

Doug
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:52 AM   #64
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We have seen a couple of broken shanks on pp's. The weld on the bottom of the"L" portion that goes into the trailer has massive pressure trying to pull it apart. We add a 4" piece of 2x3/8" steel over it to reinforce the joint.

The good news is it will only break at low speed in a deep dip.

Andrew T
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:05 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
We have seen a couple of broken shanks on pp's. The weld on the bottom of the"L" portion that goes into the trailer has massive pressure trying to pull it apart. We add a 4" piece of 2x3/8" steel over it to reinforce the joint.

The good news is it will only break at low speed in a deep dip.

Andrew T
Instead of putting a patch over the problem you can just grind out the brittle MIG weld and weld it properly with 7018.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:07 PM   #66
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You could but that is considerably more work and you don't spread the load along the steel.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:04 PM   #67
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Doug, I think what Andy is suggesting is adding a couple more washers in the shank to get more downward tilt to the stinger that slides into the hitch head. That tilts the back of the w.d. bars down and allows more lift, or weight transfer.
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:40 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcticfox View Post
truck gcwr: 13,500 - 7170 (actual truck weight) = 6330 weight remaining.

So with actual trailer weight being 6834 that looks like i'm 500 lbs overweight before i add food and cloths into the trailer.
Is this correct?
Yes, you are overloaded by at least 500 lbs.
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:47 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew T View Post
We have seen a couple of broken shanks on pp's. The weld on the bottom of the"L" portion that goes into the trailer has massive pressure trying to pull it apart. We add a 4" piece of 2x3/8" steel over it to reinforce the joint.
WHAT! Did I read that correctly? Several $2,500 hitches have broken! They require reinforcement to work safely at low speed! Thank you for saving me $2,500.

How many of you H/PP hitch owner's have made this upgrade? If you haven't, why not? Will you at least be carrying a spare shank with you?
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Old 08-24-2014, 02:50 PM   #70
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But it drives SO SWEET that I would pay full price if I had to....
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