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Old 07-16-2007, 10:16 AM   #1
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Thumbs down I've had it with equalizer!

Ive read all the threads and have had all the probems that everyone else is talking about. I have my system set up exacly like the manufacturer says and it works fine for going strait down the highway but for manuvering in gas stations or at sites it stinks. Ive tried all the fixes Ive heard on here and read the responses from the manufacturer. With my 34 I have to put a fair amount of pressure on the bars and brackets for them to have good affect. The bolts get loose, the brackets get pulled all over the place and it sounds like its ripping everything appart when turning. I have sat on the back of the truck and watched the bars hang up on the control brackets after seting them up in different ways hoping I could find a set up that works. I think the system my be fine for smaller units but with my 34 I think the friction system doesnt cut it. If its so great why is everyone talking about the problems. Im looking at the Hensley but darn thats expensive. Has anyone had expirience with it.
Jason
P.S. My equalizer is for sale if anyone wants to chance it.
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:26 AM   #2
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sell the equalizer and get a Reese Dual Cam Straightline Hitch......just my 2 cents worth.
Way less expensive than a Hensley. The Dual Cam setup works all the time to keep you straight and no sway, but has no friction bars to loosen or tighten when you have to manuver or backup.
Personally, I think the only reason people end up with the equalizer and a friction anti-sway bar is they can be set up in 30 minutes by the dealer, whereas the Dual Cam probably takes 90 minutes to set up properly because it is slightly more complex for not much more money....and the dealer is just wanting to maximize his profits, and results in your inconvenience, by taking advantage of the usual consumer's ignorance on hitches.
Plenty of info on this forum by searching for "dual cam" or "Reese Dual Cam".
Just don't go overboard on the spring bars and overhitch the trailer.
Do a little research and you'll know what I am talking about.
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:46 AM   #3
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I second the dual cam opinion. It does make little noise when you get in really tight spots, but otherwise a it's great. No more trouble to hook-up than friction devices, too.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:05 AM   #4
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I've used my Equal-i-zer for a little over a year and towed with it a little over 9,000 miles. I've had to tweak it a little in that time because the dealer set it up per the instructions and, to me, that was just an approximation. Once the trailer was loaded, it needed tweaking to get it set up for the loaded trailer. I also discovered my initial issues were a result of the tow vehicle's tires were grossly under inflated. Once they were properly inflated, I had no more problems and have enjoyed two finger steering at interstate speeds since. Semis and cross winds don't seem to affect my rig. Granted, my trailer probably weighs 3,000 LBS less than yours. Mine is also over sized because there are times when I carry a 1,000 LBS golf cart in the bed of my truck while I tow the Airstream. I adjust the square headed bolt placement in the "L" bracket to compensate for the extra weight on the rear axle when I carry the golf cart.

I would check the bracket installation if you are having a problem with the bolts loosening. If the bottom bracket bolts are in the bottom hole and not the hole closest to the frame, they can bow the bracket plates when they are tightened and cause the "L" bracket retention bolt (square headed bolt) to loosen over time. On the curb side, the gas line should be gently pulled down below the bracket bolt and separated by pipe insulation. You might consider taking your trailer and tow vehicle to an authorized Equal-i-zer dealer other than the Airstream dealer that sold it to you and have them adjust it for you...this is what I did.

As for the popping noise, it is just noise. If it bothers you, you can lubricated it when you hitch up each time. I use silicone spray for convenience and because it is less messy. You can also use hitch lube. For backing into camp sites you can remove the spring bars and back into the site quieter if you prefer.

If you polled this forum, and many have done so in the past, you will probably get as many satisfied owners of the Reese Dual Cam as Equal-i-zer brands. When I was deciding which brand to buy, I had pretty much decided the Dual Cam made more logic, but the more I researched it here, the more I was convinced the Equal-i-zer was the one I wanted. It was recommended by nearly every Airstream dealer I spoke with and by one of the Airstream factory reps who said they used to recommend the Dual Cam, but had changed their recommendation over the past few years. One of the local utility trailer dealers in my area is an Equal-i-zer dealer and he highly recommended this brand. He said they were more expensive, but worth it and he knew I would be buying though my Airstream dealer so he had no financial interest in his recommendation.

Again, I would recommend getting an Equal-i-zer dealer to take a look at it and tweak it for you before investing in a new hitch, especially $3K for a Hensley. The Hensley is probably the best, but it sure is a lot of money.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:26 AM   #5
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Love that Reese Dual-Cam Sway Control...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdalrymple
I second the dual cam opinion. It does make little noise when you get in really tight spots, but otherwise a it's great. No more trouble to hook-up than friction devices, too.
I've enjoyed the benefits of Reese Dual-Cam Sway Control on three Airstreams.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:30 AM   #6
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Jason,

It sounds a lot like the system isn't set up right. The length of the trailer has no bearing on the hitch setup since my A frame specs on my 30' are the same as on a 34'. I'm carrying 1,250+ hitch weight which is probably more hitch weight than your 34' has due to my slide out. Yeah it makes noise when you turn but that's normal. My Reese Dual-Cam also made noise when I turn. That's the nature of metal on metal. If things are getting loose, then something has gone astray. Maybe you can have someone familar with the hitch check it out for you. This is a good hitch and I wouldn't pitch it out the door yet.

Regards,

Jack
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:31 AM   #7
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We love the Equalizer. When it was noisy, I noticed that the L brackets just had to be adjusted so that the weighted bars were at a right angle to the brackets, not 'scrapping' on the front edge of the brackets.

Also just a little grease is all that is needed to get rid of any noise. I'd imagine that if the brackets aren't adjusted for a 90 angle between bracket and weighted bar, and if not lubricated, then it would be more likely that the bar would bind on the brackets and 'pull' or 'push' the brackets and loosen them when turning, especially if it sounds like the thing is ripping things apart.
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:51 PM   #8
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Im pretty good at mechanical stuff. I know I have the system set up properly. Its still for sale. I think if a system is properly designed it shouldnt make so much noise as well.
Has anyone used the Blue Ox system? I really dont think I can go for a Hensley even though I think they are probably the best.
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Old 07-16-2007, 04:52 PM   #9
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AT 34' I'd suggest the Hensley. I say this as a happy Dual Cam HP customer, but at 34' just seems like a no brainer to me.
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Old 07-16-2007, 05:04 PM   #10
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I have the Reese Dual Cam

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
... As for the popping noise, it is just noise. If it bothers you, you can lubricated it when you hitch up each time. I use silicone spray for convenience and because it is less messy. You can also use hitch lube...
Tom,

Please elaborate on the best places to lube an Equal-I-Zer. I don't own one so I don't know.

But hitch lube iz verboten on the cam surfaces of a dual cam, and I had always figured the Equalizer had similar warnings.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 07-16-2007, 05:27 PM   #11
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As instructed by the installer, I lube the ends of the bars going into the hitch. Main points however are on top of the L brackets where the bars slide across and under the L pins so the bars don't bind and grind.

No problem is handling/removing the bars can get a bit messy.
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Old 07-16-2007, 05:32 PM   #12
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The manufacturer says not to lubricate for the control bars because it is a friction based system or so Ive heard. You would lose the anti sway component unless they intend for the anti sway funtion to be dependant on trailer roll (leaning right to left)
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Old 07-16-2007, 05:44 PM   #13
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What kind of lube?

Quote:
Originally Posted by campadk
... I lube the ...
Understood.

What kind of lube do you use? Reese tells me that I can use Vaseline (which has terrible shear properties) to minimize groaning & popping but at the same time retaining the friction necessary to allow the system to work correctly.

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Old 07-16-2007, 05:49 PM   #14
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I havent used any other than at the hitch head (10w 30). Im still hoping that someone has had some experience with the Blue Ox and will give some feedback. Since I can afford a Hensly Im hoping that might be the next best choice
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