I've had it with equalizer!

[Davis]

I have been using a Reese hitch setup for the past 18 years and have had no trouble. I bought my 34ft trailer in 2003 and put on a Dual cam sway control and I don`t have any complaints with my setup with my dually or my wifes Suburban.Prior to the 34ft trailer I had owned 31ft trailers and all I had was a Eazlift friction sway bar with the Reese weight dist trunnion bar set up.All I added was the dual cam system for the 34ft.Davis

[markjoandall]

Get the Hensley.

The newer 30', 31', and 34' airstreams really do well with the hensley hitch. I've had ours since 2001 and absolutely love it. It's so easy to hitch and un-hitch, and it flat out works.

I have over 40,000 miles towing and we have never had an issue with the hitch.

There are more than several hensley users on the forums, so the resource here is very deep.

Good luck

Mark

[SilverCabin]

I am very happy with the towing, maneuvering, and backing performance of my Equal-i-zer. I keep mine lubed per the manufacturer's instructions, which quiets the hitch, and have never experienced any control or sway issues when towing in high winds and being passed by Prevost motor homes, or 18-wheelers.

Before I lubed mine though, it did sound like a train wreck was following us when we maneuvered at slow speeds. The manufacturer recommends lubricating the hitch at two locations: "Lubricate top outside surface of arm socket and bottom surface of hitch head with Equal-i-zer Socket Lube (part # 91-00-4200)." Their Socket Lube is essentially axle grease, although Equal-i-zer provides it in a handy little tube that packs well in the toolbox. Lubrication of the L-brackets is optional. "Lubrication between the L-Bracket and the spring arm is optional. Lubrication of this area will not diminish the sway control capabilities of the hitch, and may quiet the hitch when turning." My experience verifies those last two statements. I also put a dab of lube on the hitch ball. The only downside to lubing is you have to manage the grease mess when hitching, unhitching, and stowing the bars and hitch head.

One caution. Someone here said they were lubing with silicone spray. At the February Florida State Rally, I read here on the forums that they found several hitch balls loose on the hitch heads. The cause seemed to be using lightweight oil on the ball that eventually acted like penetrating oil and caused the ball to loosen over time.

Now that it's installed correctly, I am very happy and no longer worried about the performance of my Equal-i-zer. However, based on the manufacturer’s data, and the reviews here in the forums, if I had something longer than 25' I'd take a serious look at the Hensley. Just my $0.02.

Randy

[Minnie's Mate]

Originally Posted by TomW

Tom,

Please elaborate on the best places to lube an Equal-I-Zer. I don't own one so I don't know.

But hitch lube iz verboten on the cam surfaces of a dual cam, and I had always figured the Equalizer had similar warnings.

Thanks,
Tom

I spray the "L" brackets with silicone spray before I install the spring bars; I then add a little to the retaining arms after I install them. I don't lube the sockets where the spring bars are inserted into the hitch head. The bars are held very tightly in the sockets and really don't move in them so I don't think there is any noise coming from that area. The real noise is coming from the other end of the bars being held to the "L" brackets by the tension on them plus the friction of the bars against the "L" brackets. as they slide against the brackets in tight turns, they have a tendency to rotate the brackets and retainer arms until the brackets can no longer move. As the tendency to rotate continues, energy builds up until the bracket and retainer arm "pops" back to level as the energy is released. By using a lubricant, that energy doesn't build up and isn't released suddenly.

Bear in mind that the Equal-i-zer does NOT use friction to arrest sway. Therefore, lubricant on the "L" brackets does not interfere with the proper functioning of the weight distribution system or the sway control function. It uses the tension that is placed on the spring bars to place the spring bars in a bind at the hitch head. I really can't explain it without pictures. The best place to go is the Equal-i-zer web site for an explanation.

I use silicone spray because it isn't as messy as hitch lube or Vaseline. Either of these two would do a fine job, but I keep silicone spray in the front trunk storage compartment behind the LP tanks (my 30' Bunk is a front bedroom with island queen) so it is handy. I use it to lubricate my steps and BAL jacks since it doesn't collect dirt and grit like grease based lubes do. However, I find it necessary to use the silicone spray every time I tow or it seems to evaporate during the trip.

I'm not trying to say that you didn't install your hitch correctly but merely suggesting that the instructions were an approximation of the correct installation that needs to be fine tuned since you loaded up the trailer. I for one am not good with tools. I am by training an architect and manage construction projects for a living so reading specs and interpreting drawings and technical writing is what I do every day so I can understand the way things work even if it would take me twice as long to do the installation as it would take you. Without seeing how you installed your hitch and comparing the installation to the instructions I trust that you did do it properly. But I kind of liken it to looking at the moon through a telescope. You can set it up perfectly and level the tripod exactly as it should be, and have the moon dead center of the viewer, but if you don't focus the telescope, you aren't going to get the best view and finest details you could get if you completed that final step.

When I was having new safety chains installed on my Airstream at my local utility trailer dealer (don't ever install the chains on the outside of your hitch bars!), the shop foreman said I needed to remove one of the washers from the hitch head because the angle was tilted too much. I was almost offended that he was suggesting that my dealer hadn't installed it correctly, but I told them to remove one anyway. It made a noticeable difference in the handling of the trailer. That combined with proper air pressure in the tow vehicle's tires really made the rig handle even better than it did without the trailer back there!

One final thought. What rating hitch did you get? My trailer loaded should be a maximum of 8,400 LBS with a maximum hitch weight of 850 LBS. A 10,000 LBS system with 1,000 LBS bars would have been sufficient. However, as I mentioned above I carry a golf cart in the bed of my truck about half of the time I tow. I discussed this scenario with my local utility box trailer dealer before I had my Airstream dealer order my Equal-i-zer hitch and he recommended that I go up to the next size rating of 12,000 LBS hitch with 1,200 LBS bars. He said the two hitches and bars were not interchangeable but the extra weight on the rear axles would be similar to extra tongue weight and I would want to transfer more of the trailer's tongue weight to the front axle to compensate. When set up properly, the truck and Airstream set level with the golf cart in the bed and the combination handles smoothly. If I don't remember to raise the brackets one notch when I carry the golf cart, there isn't enough load on the front axles and I feel like the rig wants to wander all over the lane. When properly set up without the golf cart, the trailer/truck combination handles as if the trailer isn't back there when passing/being passed by semis or in heavy winds at interstate speeds. I would think with the tongue weight of a 34', especially if you have a slide, you would need the 12,000 LBS/1,200 LBS hitch.

[BillTex]

No offense intended…but, you own a 34’ Classic and can’t pop for a HA? I am no HA fan, am very pleased with my Eq (I still think yours is not set-up properly), after towing many thousands of miles with an Eq, I just can’t believe an HA is any better than a properly set-up Eq, on a proper TV. I can back up, jackknife turn, and go up down and sideways without unhitching my spring bars. Yes, it groans a bit, they all do (except maybe the HA…that must be why they cost $3K!).
Does an HA provide an advantage on a marginal TV? Maybe, but why not just buy the right truck?
Don’t throw money at the problem. I think you should grab your torque wrench, go outside and review your set-up, and take that $3k and go Streamin’ for a month!
Lube and set-up instructions from Eq attached (I lube mine occasionally, it does quiet things down.)
Something is fishy in Denmark (Richmond); spend some time going over your hitch, once dialed in, the Eq is awesome.


Bill

[Resorts]

I agree that I could lube it up and it probably would quiet down. It might help with the twisting of the control bars as well. If the friction for the anti sway is in the head then the manufacturer should have installed a roller assembly for the spring bars to ride on elimnating greasy bars, twisting of the control assembly on the A frame, and that awful noise. Im going to try the Blue Ox and Give everyone feed back on how it goes. The fact is that the trailer pulls really well even without a WD hitch. I doubt id even use one if I had a one ton dually.

[Minnie's Mate]

It seems you have made up your mind to replace your hitch without trying any of our suggestions. Good luck with the new one. Do tell us how it tows.

[Resorts]

.... I have tried everything that Ive read except for lubing. I dont want to have to handle greasy hitches. Theres got to be a better way other than a $3000 hensly that I cant afford right now since I just spent more $ than I have a right to with the 34.
I will post the results with the Blue OX.

[BillTex]

Originally Posted by Resorts

.... I have tried everything that Ive read except for lubing. I dont want to have to handle greasy hitches. Theres got to be a better way other than a $3000 hensly that I cant afford right now since I just spent more $ than I have a right to with the 34.

You should try a Moho

[Steve & Susan]

You're right, grease can be messy.
I've learned to step carefully around the hitch and I wear work gloves when hitching/unhitching. I also wipe off any excess that I see to minimize laundry accidents!

[Resorts]

Whats a Moho?

[Minnie's Mate]

Moho = motorhome.

[pmclemore]

How much is the Blue Ox?

Pat

[SilverCabin]

I was trying to find it here, and can't, but I remember reading a very unfavorable review of the Blue Ox hitch somewhere.

Randy

[JimGolden]

I've used a Reese Dual Cam and it worked fine. Just a PITA to hitch up.

I just bought a 14,000lb capacity Equal-I-Zer for my 34' Avion. After doing much research on here and looking at the available options, I went with it. I hope it wasn't a mistake. It looks to me like, properly set up, the Eq is a great rig.

Safford RV in Fredericksburg, VA, sells the Blue Ox, the Equal-I-zer, and the Reese products. I talked at length there with one of their older more crusty sales dudes who's been in the biz for 30 years. He told me that the Reese is good stuff, been good stuff for many years, and he'd happily sell me one. But, he said the Eq was better in his opinion; easier to hitch up and works at least as well. But most importantly, he told me the Blue Ox (what I'd originally gone to look at as I didn't know he sold Eq or Reese) was a POS made in China and to avoid it all costs. Said they'd had nothing but trouble with them and actually quit carrying them, although I still saw the display tree on the floor.

I'll be interested to see how the Ox does.

I will agree that, engineering wise, nothing comes close to a Hensley. I'd buy one myself if it weren't so danged expensive. Heck, I might just fabricate my own knockoff of one. But for now, for me, I towed my new rig home 600 miles on just the ball and it did pretty doggone well. I think with a properly set up Eq, it will be stellar.

Best of luck,

[Bob Thompson]

On the issue of lubricating the Equal-I-zer, for the bar ends at the trailer, I use plain 'ol parafin wax from a candle. It doesn't get my hands all messy, but greatly reduces the noise. I rub in on with a candle then use a log lighter to melt it in.
At the head, on all pivots and the ball I use a real stiff marine grease and I clean and replentish it every other trip.

[Minnie's Mate]

I never thought about paraffin wax...hum, it would be less messy and probably less likely to pick up grit.

[mello mike]

Hmmmm, might have to try that.

Originally Posted by Bob Thompson

On the issue of lubricating the Equal-I-zer, for the bar ends at the trailer, I use plain 'ol parafin wax from a candle. It doesn't get my hands all messy, but greatly reduces the noise. I rub in on with a candle then use a log lighter to melt it in.
At the head, on all pivots and the ball I use a real stiff marine grease and I clean and replentish it every other trip.

[crazylev]

I'm in on the wax thing. I've got a whole bunch of old Hannukah candles I can use for the job!

Jonathan

[TinShack]

There are some used Hensleys on Ebay. You may be able to pick one up for about half price, of course I don't think the lifetime warranty is transferrable but you can check with Hensley directly. Also, Hensley sometimes sell refurbished hitches for much less that carry the full warranty. May be worth checking into.

eBay - hensley hitch, Parts Accessories, eBay Motors items on eBay.com=

I LOVE my Hensley. I've used it for about a year now and have gotten really good at hitching it up. It does take some practice.