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Old 07-16-2007, 04:53 PM   #15
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2005 34' Classic
Richmond , Virginia
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opps..... I meant I cant afford a Hensly

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Old 07-16-2007, 06:29 PM   #16
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2003 33' Land Yacht 33
Fort Myers , Florida
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Get the Hensley

I've used an Equalizer and a Reese HP Dual Cam on (2) 28' Airstreams. I hated the Equalizer for the moving brackets; the HP Dual Cam worked fine.

But on our new 34 we opted for the Hensley. Yes, it is big bucks by itself but for what you have invested in a 34 Classic, the cost is far smaller.

It flat out works; no need to detail it here as there are many threads on this and other forums like

You are pulling a long, long, heavy trailer; put the Hensley between your truck and trailer; you won't be disappointed.

Jan and Al
Sophia and Emilee, the Pugs
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:45 PM   #17
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1984 31' Excella
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Weight Distribution Hitch

Sorry to hear of the problems you are having.
There are several 34 FT units in the Tidewater WBCCI.
None have the Hensley.
They all have the Reese Dual Cam Straight line, I do also(31 FT Excella).
In my honest opinon (IMHO) the Hensley performs as advertised.
However, I have no problems with my Dual Cam and once I took it to a CAT scale and set it up properly the whole rig handeled even better.
The Dual Cam was on the trailer when I bought it.
The vendor gave me the adapter ends as my trunion bars (spring bars).
I had the adjustable drawbar and ball mount from previous trailers.
My point is if you find one used in good shape and with the weight sticker still on it don't be afraid of it.
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Old 07-16-2007, 08:11 PM   #18
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2007 19' Bambi
Ottawa , Ontario
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I use some grease I have for our boat. Maybe on the super long units, you have to be more particular... I don't know. But on a 19ft Bambi sway is not an issue with a lubed Equalizer.
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:54 PM   #19
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I have a Reese Dual cam for my 31 Classic. She still makes noise turning but a little grease on the trunion pins takes care of most of that.
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Old 07-17-2007, 04:18 AM   #20
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Willoughby , Ohio
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We've had the Equalizer for two years now - 7,500 miles on the AS with no problems at all. When it starts groaning, I grease it a little (manufacturer recommends this) with axle grease or a shot or two of aerosol white lithium that I keep in the TV. (I wish they made some of that stuff for MY creaks, squeaks and groans) The ball gets a shot of grease from time to time as do the sockets for the spring bars of the Equalizer. We looked at a Hensley and couldn't afford it at the time - this is working well so I think we'll stay with it.
Steve & Susan
WBCCI# 03876
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2005 28' CCD, 2011 Sierra 5.3L, Equal-I-Zer
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Old 07-17-2007, 05:54 AM   #21
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1996 34' Excella
Americus , Georgia
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I have been using a Reese hitch setup for the past 18 years and have had no trouble. I bought my 34ft trailer in 2003 and put on a Dual cam sway control and I don`t have any complaints with my setup with my dually or my wifes Suburban.Prior to the 34ft trailer I had owned 31ft trailers and all I had was a Eazlift friction sway bar with the Reese weight dist trunnion bar set up.All I added was the dual cam system for the 34ft.Davis
1991 Airstream Excella 1000 34ft (SOLD)
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2005 Chevrolet Suburban LT 1500 2WD 5.3
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Old 07-17-2007, 06:25 AM   #22
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2001 30' Excella
Bedford , New Hampshire
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Get the Hensley.

The newer 30', 31', and 34' airstreams really do well with the hensley hitch. I've had ours since 2001 and absolutely love it. It's so easy to hitch and un-hitch, and it flat out works.

I have over 40,000 miles towing and we have never had an issue with the hitch.

There are more than several hensley users on the forums, so the resource here is very deep.

Good luck

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Old 07-17-2007, 07:17 AM   #23
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2014 27' Flying Cloud
Viera , Florida
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Thumbs up Equal-i-zer Working Well for Me

I am very happy with the towing, maneuvering, and backing performance of my Equal-i-zer. I keep mine lubed per the manufacturer's instructions, which quiets the hitch, and have never experienced any control or sway issues when towing in high winds and being passed by Prevost motor homes, or 18-wheelers.

Before I lubed mine though, it did sound like a train wreck was following us when we maneuvered at slow speeds. The manufacturer recommends lubricating the hitch at two locations: "Lubricate top outside surface of arm socket and bottom surface of hitch head with Equal-i-zer Socket Lube (part # 91-00-4200)." Their Socket Lube is essentially axle grease, although Equal-i-zer provides it in a handy little tube that packs well in the toolbox. Lubrication of the L-brackets is optional. "Lubrication between the L-Bracket and the spring arm is optional. Lubrication of this area will not diminish the sway control capabilities of the hitch, and may quiet the hitch when turning." My experience verifies those last two statements. I also put a dab of lube on the hitch ball. The only downside to lubing is you have to manage the grease mess when hitching, unhitching, and stowing the bars and hitch head.

One caution. Someone here said they were lubing with silicone spray. At the February Florida State Rally, I read here on the forums that they found several hitch balls loose on the hitch heads. The cause seemed to be using lightweight oil on the ball that eventually acted like penetrating oil and caused the ball to loosen over time.

Now that it's installed correctly, I am very happy and no longer worried about the performance of my Equal-i-zer. However, based on the manufacturer’s data, and the reviews here in the forums, if I had something longer than 25' I'd take a serious look at the Hensley. Just my $0.02.

Randy and Pat Godfrey
Region 3 2nd VP, Newsletter Editor, Florida Unit
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Old 07-17-2007, 07:37 AM   #24
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
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Originally Posted by TomW

Please elaborate on the best places to lube an Equal-I-Zer. I don't own one so I don't know.

But hitch lube iz verboten on the cam surfaces of a dual cam, and I had always figured the Equalizer had similar warnings.

I spray the "L" brackets with silicone spray before I install the spring bars; I then add a little to the retaining arms after I install them. I don't lube the sockets where the spring bars are inserted into the hitch head. The bars are held very tightly in the sockets and really don't move in them so I don't think there is any noise coming from that area. The real noise is coming from the other end of the bars being held to the "L" brackets by the tension on them plus the friction of the bars against the "L" brackets. as they slide against the brackets in tight turns, they have a tendency to rotate the brackets and retainer arms until the brackets can no longer move. As the tendency to rotate continues, energy builds up until the bracket and retainer arm "pops" back to level as the energy is released. By using a lubricant, that energy doesn't build up and isn't released suddenly.

Bear in mind that the Equal-i-zer does NOT use friction to arrest sway. Therefore, lubricant on the "L" brackets does not interfere with the proper functioning of the weight distribution system or the sway control function. It uses the tension that is placed on the spring bars to place the spring bars in a bind at the hitch head. I really can't explain it without pictures. The best place to go is the Equal-i-zer web site for an explanation.

I use silicone spray because it isn't as messy as hitch lube or Vaseline. Either of these two would do a fine job, but I keep silicone spray in the front trunk storage compartment behind the LP tanks (my 30' Bunk is a front bedroom with island queen) so it is handy. I use it to lubricate my steps and BAL jacks since it doesn't collect dirt and grit like grease based lubes do. However, I find it necessary to use the silicone spray every time I tow or it seems to evaporate during the trip.

I'm not trying to say that you didn't install your hitch correctly but merely suggesting that the instructions were an approximation of the correct installation that needs to be fine tuned since you loaded up the trailer. I for one am not good with tools. I am by training an architect and manage construction projects for a living so reading specs and interpreting drawings and technical writing is what I do every day so I can understand the way things work even if it would take me twice as long to do the installation as it would take you. Without seeing how you installed your hitch and comparing the installation to the instructions I trust that you did do it properly. But I kind of liken it to looking at the moon through a telescope. You can set it up perfectly and level the tripod exactly as it should be, and have the moon dead center of the viewer, but if you don't focus the telescope, you aren't going to get the best view and finest details you could get if you completed that final step.

When I was having new safety chains installed on my Airstream at my local utility trailer dealer (don't ever install the chains on the outside of your hitch bars!), the shop foreman said I needed to remove one of the washers from the hitch head because the angle was tilted too much. I was almost offended that he was suggesting that my dealer hadn't installed it correctly, but I told them to remove one anyway. It made a noticeable difference in the handling of the trailer. That combined with proper air pressure in the tow vehicle's tires really made the rig handle even better than it did without the trailer back there!

One final thought. What rating hitch did you get? My trailer loaded should be a maximum of 8,400 LBS with a maximum hitch weight of 850 LBS. A 10,000 LBS system with 1,000 LBS bars would have been sufficient. However, as I mentioned above I carry a golf cart in the bed of my truck about half of the time I tow. I discussed this scenario with my local utility box trailer dealer before I had my Airstream dealer order my Equal-i-zer hitch and he recommended that I go up to the next size rating of 12,000 LBS hitch with 1,200 LBS bars. He said the two hitches and bars were not interchangeable but the extra weight on the rear axles would be similar to extra tongue weight and I would want to transfer more of the trailer's tongue weight to the front axle to compensate. When set up properly, the truck and Airstream set level with the golf cart in the bed and the combination handles smoothly. If I don't remember to raise the brackets one notch when I carry the golf cart, there isn't enough load on the front axles and I feel like the rig wants to wander all over the lane. When properly set up without the golf cart, the trailer/truck combination handles as if the trailer isn't back there when passing/being passed by semis or in heavy winds at interstate speeds. I would think with the tongue weight of a 34', especially if you have a slide, you would need the 12,000 LBS/1,200 LBS hitch.
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Old 07-17-2007, 08:37 AM   #25
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1989 25' Excella
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No offense intendedÖbut, you own a 34í Classic and canít pop for a HA? I am no HA fan, am very pleased with my Eq (I still think yours is not set-up properly), after towing many thousands of miles with an Eq, I just canít believe an HA is any better than a properly set-up Eq, on a proper TV. I can back up, jackknife turn, and go up down and sideways without unhitching my spring bars. Yes, it groans a bit, they all do (except maybe the HAÖthat must be why they cost $3K!).
Does an HA provide an advantage on a marginal TV? Maybe, but why not just buy the right truck?
Donít throw money at the problem. I think you should grab your torque wrench, go outside and review your set-up, and take that $3k and go Streaminí for a month!
Lube and set-up instructions from Eq attached (I lube mine occasionally, it does quiet things down.)
Something is fishy in Denmark (Richmond); spend some time going over your hitch, once dialed in, the Eq is awesome.

Attached Files
File Type: pdf equalizer_instructions[1].pdf (1.02 MB, 40 views)
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:50 AM   #26
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2005 34' Classic
Richmond , Virginia
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I agree that I could lube it up and it probably would quiet down. It might help with the twisting of the control bars as well. If the friction for the anti sway is in the head then the manufacturer should have installed a roller assembly for the spring bars to ride on elimnating greasy bars, twisting of the control assembly on the A frame, and that awful noise. Im going to try the Blue Ox and Give everyone feed back on how it goes. The fact is that the trailer pulls really well even without a WD hitch. I doubt id even use one if I had a one ton dually.
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:16 AM   #27
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan
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It seems you have made up your mind to replace your hitch without trying any of our suggestions. Good luck with the new one. Do tell us how it tows.
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2008 F-250 Lariat Power Stroke Diesel Crew Cab SWB
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Old 07-17-2007, 10:31 AM   #28
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2005 34' Classic
Richmond , Virginia
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.... I have tried everything that Ive read except for lubing. I dont want to have to handle greasy hitches. Theres got to be a better way other than a $3000 hensly that I cant afford right now since I just spent more $ than I have a right to with the 34.
I will post the results with the Blue OX.

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