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Old 05-20-2012, 06:18 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by thecatsandi View Post
The latch is also easily replaceable.
Michelle,

Sorry for your situation but many thanks for sharing and getting folks to take a second look.

I'm going to look at mine, but I'll also be searching for a latch replacement instruction thread.

Happy Trails are ahead.

Gary
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:48 AM   #58
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I just found the model number on my 30' it is 81912. Did a little searching and found this http://www.rvtechlibrary.com/chassis/atwood_jacks.pdf and on page 2 references the 88007 that Michele mentioned which is a FLIP LATCH and does have a repair kit but mine is a THUMB LATCH and does not have a repair kit.

Time to get the flashlight, I liked someones idea of using a loose trailer ball as an inspection aid.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:13 AM   #59
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The document below does not mention a coupler adjustment nut/bolt.

Atwood Yoke Style & Flip Latch Couplers — Installation/Operation/Maintenance:

http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%201.22.08.pdf


Text extracts from above:

WARNING - PERSONAL INJURY: For proper tow vehicle and trailer hookup, towing performance and to prevent damage to hitch and trailer coupling, the tow vehicle and trailer are to be level with respect to flat ground after hitching up. If your trailer is not level, equipment is available to raise or lower the hitch ball.


CAUTION - PRODUCT DAMAGE:

• Use caution when backing or towing vehicle for hook-up, damage to coupler may result.

• Avoid sharp turns when towing or backing. Jack-knifing could bend coupler or create extreme stress or fracture.


FLIP LATCH COUPLERS

PART # 88555, 88600 8,000 lb. Capacity
PART # 88007, 88010 10,000 lb. Capacity

1. To open, slide forward and pull up open latch before inserting ball (FIG 10-A.)

2. Place coupler on ball of same diameter as coupler ball socket size and of same or greater capacity than trailer GVW.

88555/88600 ............2˝
88007/88010 ............2-5/16˝

3. When ball is completely nested in socket, push top of latch handle rearward until handle snaps into closed position.(FIG 10-B.)

4. Extend jack to ground and lift car/trailer combination 2˝-4˝ to insure coupler is securely attached to tow ball. Retract jack completely before towing.

5. Insert padlock through hole in handle (FIG 7-C).

Note: These couplers are not adjustable for ball size.


MAINTENANCE

1. Lubricate ball socket and ball clamp with wheel bearing grease. Clean and lubricate monthly.

2. Check towing hitch, ball and coupler for signs of wear before each trip. Replace coupler if damaged or worn.

3. Lubricate moving or sliding parts monthly with S.A.E. 30 weight oil.
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Old 05-20-2012, 07:59 AM   #60
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Cats - sorry about your accident but, you always seem to bounce right back. After your previous thread about coupler wear I had mine looked at - it' s the original 71 with new guts that I put in two years ago. They didn't find any problems with the coupler but still recomended replacing it simply due to the age. Checking it they put a loose ball in it and looked for play - looked at the lip for cracks and felt the forward inside face for any rough spots or grooves. I think the prior owner used wheel bearing grease on it. We changed out to Teflon ball grease as that's what we've used on all our campers and never had any issues.

After your latest adventure the coupler is going to get replaced. I liked the Attwood Yoke style because of the positive locking feature. In the end I decided to go ahead and get the Quickbite and placed the order yesterday.

Regarding adjustable couplers. I've seen those but only on heavy duty trailers and farm equipment - never had one on any camper we've ever owned.

If nothing else Cats - while I'm sure you rather they didn't - your adventures make the rest of us stop and think. I know your selling the unit so I presume you went with standard replacement coupler?
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:20 AM   #61
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The dent in the rock guard is related to the accident. i kicked it. I was that pissed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
The first time I kicked something because I was angry, my foot hurt so much I now control that desire. I hope your foot is ok.
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My foot hurts. especially since I forgot that my right ankle has arthritis.
Way off-topic, sort of, but that's what killed Jack Daniels. Yes, THAT Jack Daniels. He had a large safe in his office, and one day the latch stuck, and he couldn't get the safe open. He got pissed, and kicked the crap out of the safe. It did zip to the safe, but he broke his toe. The toe got infected, and he died from the infection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ggoat!!! View Post
Coupler latches are adjustable; there is a big nut on the bottom that should ALWAYS be checked. You can adjust how tight the coupler grabs the ball. If you never check this, and tow for 80,000 miles, it's bound to develop play (due to never tightening the nut or checking it) which of course could cause the trailer to come off the ball.
I've repaired and replaced a lot of coupler latches, and I've never seen one of these on a modern Airstream. The coupler replacement kit consists of a spring, hand latch, and coupler latch. Replacement coupler assemblies (the ones you weld the whole thing on) have no adjusting nuts, either.

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Originally Posted by danlehosky View Post
I've got a question. We use a Hensley Hitch where the pivot point is not the ball. To take off this hitch after every use to grease the ball would be unreasonable. How do you guys with Hensleys handle this. I have seen folks drill and tap 1/4" holes into the top of receivers and add grease zerks. Anyone tried that? The people at Hensley told me this was something I would not have to worry about.
Dan
I've added zerks to a few Hensley setups, and it really does no good. The grease goes everywhere but where it is needed. The best thing is to simply lower the big orange part and glob some grease on the ball, then put it back up and latch it.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:05 AM   #62
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I've got a question. We use a Hensley Hitch where the pivot point is not the ball. To take off this hitch after every use to grease the ball would be unreasonable. How do you guys with Hensleys handle this. I have seen folks drill and tap 1/4" holes into the top of receivers and add grease zerks. Anyone tried that? The people at Hensley told me this was something I would not have to worry about.
Dan
I let the tongue jack do all the work.

Leave the stinger (in your TV) latched into the lower receiver box, disconnect the struts, and un-pin the torsion bars. Then simply raise the jack until the coupler is free and clear.

Makes maintenance a snap.
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Old 05-20-2012, 12:00 PM   #63
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Thanks Bob and Finalcutjoe . Good advice. I think I am going to take the head assembly off every winter and put it in the shop. I think next winter I may paint everything as the black and some of the orange paint is failing already. Maybe I could have the whole thing chromed. Now that would be nice.
Dan
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:51 PM   #64
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Quote:
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I know your selling the unit so I presume you went with standard replacement coupler?
I replaced the worn out coupler with the same model.
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