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Old 12-05-2011, 07:08 PM   #15
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One thread for the subject will better suffice. And a cheap hitch is no friend to you (as on other thread). Anything not needed can easily be re-sold on CL.
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Old 04-10-2013, 03:22 AM   #16
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I have the Husky Centerline.

I LOVE it. The best hitch I've ever used.

When I first purchased my latest trailer I was going to go with an Equalizer, but the reports of loud pops and noises had me concerned. I hadn't even HEARD of the Husky hitch, and basically stumbled across one at an RV dealership in New Orleans. The first thing that struck me was how the hitch looked; it was meticulously finished, and just LOOKED good. So, it got my interest. I researched what I initially thought was an Equalizer copy when I learned about the compression discs and how they eliminate sway...while also eliminating the noises caused by the friction aspect of the Equalizer. I decided to try the Centerline, with the 600lb bars for my 19ft 75th Prototype.

My local dealer matched the cheapest online price I could find. The hitch has a lifetime warranty. I DID have the widely reported problem with broken compression discs as there was a batch of the hitch heads made with a soft metal problem upon initial release in 2010. However, this issue was taken care of immediately and I received a brand new hitch head which has traveled thousands of miles without a problem.

The absolute lack of sway is amazing with this hitch. I've NEVER felt that familiar sucking motion when trucks pass. Out west in windstorms I've never felt the trailer wander or gyrate whatsoever. My SSR actually rides BETTER when towing the Airstream with the properly meticulously set-up Centerline (which took quite a while to get it exactly right). There are no harsh bumps, no hitch binding clanks, no squeaks, no rattles, no creaks, no moans. The hitch is nearly completely noise-free.

The only negative thing I've found about the hitch is the weight of the hitch head. It is huge. And, it weighs a ton. I have a long Eaz-Lift 18" drawbar (that fits deep underneath my SSR) and the combined weight of that and the huge Centerline head is astonishing. It's difficult to get it up under the truck to mount it. However, it IS super solidly built...you could pull a train with it. But, with all that heft on the head is some great engineering. Tilting the head could not be easier...there are no ridiculous washers and spacers to install. The Centerline uses a notched square washer system that is simple and a design completely along the lines of "why didn't everyone else think of that" in that you simply move the washer in or out one tooth at a time to angle the hitch head. No need to completely disassemble the head to change the angle. It was actually FUN setting up this hitch...except for lifting the thing. I reiterate...the head is HUGE and feels it. I've never lifted a hitch head/drawbar so heavy.

I can't recommend this hitch enough. For anyone who wants an Equalizer type hitch but without the noise and more primitive design, the Husky Centerline seems to be the natural technological evolution. The compression cylinders are genious...and did I mention that there's no noise???



Hope this helps someone,
Jeff
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:08 AM   #17
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Jeff,

Interesting and certainly a twist with the bellville spring centering system. It's still on my interest list. Wonder if anyone has an owners report with a heavier trailer?

Gary
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:04 PM   #18
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I have been pulling trailers for 30 plus years with simple chain hung equalizers with nothing for sway control. I do have a long bed crew cab 2500 which helps.

I just bought a 2010 27FB Classic which came with a Husky Centerline hitch.

I only have a couple hundred mile on it now, but I can't feel any advantage over the simpler "primitive" setups.

Here is what I don't like.

It is way too heavy and I am sure there is more that one ruptured disk out there from trying to mount it.

I feel like I am risking my life (at least my fingers) trying to lever those bars in place.

There are too many pieces, that end up dropped in the sand or otherwise lost.

The lever bar used to mount the thing has to be so long to give you enough leverage that it won't fit under the hitch if the ground is not level.

If you lose that special bar, you ain't gonna find it at Walmart and until you do find it, you will be dragging around a trailer. A tire tool won't do it.

I pulled a 29 footer 16,000 miles in the last year with no sway problems. I think I am going back to my old "primitive" set up.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:55 AM   #19
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Have you used a segmented weight scale to set it up? Do this most basic of tasks before throwing it out. And get your individual wheel position weights while you're at it (both the RMA and BRIDGESTONE have online .pdfs to this end). Get the TV tire pressures to optimum, not just the vehicle loadings.

An Airstream is certainly "forgving" compared to the usual leaf-sprung buggy out there . . but it doesn't mean that performance should be left on the table after walking away.

.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
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Hensley Arrow. 10-cpm solo, 18-cpm towing
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Old 08-24-2013, 09:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Have you used a segmented weight scale to set it up? Do this most basic of tasks before throwing it out. And get your individual wheel position weights while you're at it (both the RMA and BRIDGESTONE have online .pdfs to this end). Get the TV tire pressures to optimum, not just the vehicle loadings.

An Airstream is certainly "forgving" compared to the usual leaf-sprung buggy out there . . but it doesn't mean that performance should be left on the table after walking away.

.
You lost me. What is a segmented weight scale and what are individual wheel position weights?
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Old 08-24-2013, 10:09 AM   #21
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slowmover has taken this to a science and loses most of us. But he's got good advice.

doug
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Old 08-24-2013, 11:51 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbelk View Post
I have been pulling trailers for 30 plus years with simple chain hung equalizers with nothing for sway control. I do have a long bed crew cab 2500 which helps.

I just bought a 2010 27FB Classic which came with a Husky Centerline hitch.

I only have a couple hundred mile on it now, but I can't feel any advantage over the simpler "primitive" setups.

Here is what I don't like.

It is way too heavy and I am sure there is more that one ruptured disk out there from trying to mount it.

I feel like I am risking my life (at least my fingers) trying to lever those bars in place.

There are too many pieces, that end up dropped in the sand or otherwise lost.

The lever bar used to mount the thing has to be so long to give you enough leverage that it won't fit under the hitch if the ground is not level.

If you lose that special bar, you ain't gonna find it at Walmart and until you do find it, you will be dragging around a trailer. A tire tool won't do it.

I pulled a 29 footer 16,000 miles in the last year with no sway problems. I think I am going back to my old "primitive" set up.
Bbelk I am right there with you.You will feel like you are lost on here if you read all the hitch posts on here. If you don't have a propride or a hensley YOU ARE GOING TO DESTROY YOUR AIRSTREAM. At least that is what all the "self engineers on here want you to think.Pulled thousands of miles with the old primitive hitches and probably as many without any WD hitch .If your Tow vehicle is not undersized ( there is a lot of that on these forums and they try to justify it with fancy hitches) and trailer is loaded right with no mechanical issues you shouldn't have any problems. If the Husky works for you go for it.For myself I will also stick with my old primitive hitch that only cost about $300.00
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Old 08-25-2013, 11:50 AM   #23
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Yeah, panheadale, that's one accurate and succinct summation of what waits for the patient reader on WDH threads. (Not.)

Trailer lash up is just applied physics. Leverage, done correctly. A formula no more complicated than getting the solo/loaded-for-camping front axle weight value back to that number once the TT is hitched up and weight-distribution applied. Some hitch adjustments may need to be made past a rough-in at home, and then some more once at a public, certified weight scale (three-pad for the different axles).

We do all these measurements while stopped. Static values. Once moving those forces on the axles -- TV & TT -- can be far higher and lower when going down the road. Exerting tremendous forces in some instances: not a few hundred pounds as we measure, but thousands.

As loss-of-control accidents are primarily driver error (usually over-correction) keeping the TV steering "feel" as close as stock as possible is proven to work well.

Along with steering, braking force is increased by transferring some of that TW back onto the TT axles. Also to the good.

Along with the above some hitches have integrated anti-sway control, and proper weight distribution allows them to work to maximum. Most folks tend to mistake this for the greater benefit of proper WD in accident avoidance . . WD is mandatory, anti-sway is optional. (But nearly all value it).

Second is proper tire pressure according to load. By weighing each individual wheel position we can account for side/side and as well as FF/RR variances that need correction . . or, more importantly to set TV tire pressure according to the higher load seen at one axle end, not to the average. (The TT tires are always to maximum sidewall pressure).

Having your rig perform optimally is not hard, and painstaking on pretty much only one occasion. The occasional re-weigh to adjust things makes any future changes within a very narrow range.

Accident avoidance is not about skill (a foolish claim), but about risk minimization which maximizes the performance of your combined vehicle.

Get the numbers, work the adjustments and learn how the rig feels under all conditions encountered.

It is far easier to find problems which may be any of four or more causes: tires, hitch, TV or TT and then further down the related decision trees in diagnosis for each one. This is almost always overlooked by RV'ers, yet being able to isolate and correct problems is far easier with a base of numbers acquired to work from.

That many of us may also have pulled trailers of every description for thousands of incident-free miles is beside the point. SAE and others have demonstrated this approach pretty well. Or, that there are those of us who've been pulling this TT type for 40-years or more, with a variety of vehicles and in almost every condition imaginable.

Know what is best. And why . . if there is something to prove, then prove it to ones self first. Having a mechanical baseline to work from makes any/all towing issues much more clear.

.
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1990 35' Silver Streak Sterling; 9k GVWR.
2004 DODGE Cummins 305/555; 6-manual; 9k GVWR.
Hensley Arrow. 10-cpm solo, 18-cpm towing
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:12 PM   #24
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Where does one find scales capable of measuring individual tire weights. Failing that, how does one measure individual axle weight? TW I got. The same picture is in my 2010 owners manual as was in my 1977 owners manual.
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Old 09-17-2015, 12:30 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ggoat!!! View Post
I have the Husky Centerline.

I LOVE it. The best hitch I've ever used.

When I first purchased my latest trailer I was going to go with an Equalizer, but the reports of loud pops and noises had me concerned. I hadn't even HEARD of the Husky hitch, and basically stumbled across one at an RV dealership in New Orleans. The first thing that struck me was how the hitch looked; it was meticulously finished, and just LOOKED good. So, it got my interest. I researched what I initially thought was an Equalizer copy when I learned about the compression discs and how they eliminate sway...while also eliminating the noises caused by the friction aspect of the Equalizer. I decided to try the Centerline, with the 600lb bars for my 19ft 75th Prototype.

My local dealer matched the cheapest online price I could find. The hitch has a lifetime warranty. I DID have the widely reported problem with broken compression discs as there was a batch of the hitch heads made with a soft metal problem upon initial release in 2010. However, this issue was taken care of immediately and I received a brand new hitch head which has traveled thousands of miles without a problem.

The absolute lack of sway is amazing with this hitch. I've NEVER felt that familiar sucking motion when trucks pass. Out west in windstorms I've never felt the trailer wander or gyrate whatsoever. My SSR actually rides BETTER when towing the Airstream with the properly meticulously set-up Centerline (which took quite a while to get it exactly right). There are no harsh bumps, no hitch binding clanks, no squeaks, no rattles, no creaks, no moans. The hitch is nearly completely noise-free.

The only negative thing I've found about the hitch is the weight of the hitch head. It is huge. And, it weighs a ton. I have a long Eaz-Lift 18" drawbar (that fits deep underneath my SSR) and the combined weight of that and the huge Centerline head is astonishing. It's difficult to get it up under the truck to mount it. However, it IS super solidly built...you could pull a train with it. But, with all that heft on the head is some great engineering. Tilting the head could not be easier...there are no ridiculous washers and spacers to install. The Centerline uses a notched square washer system that is simple and a design completely along the lines of "why didn't everyone else think of that" in that you simply move the washer in or out one tooth at a time to angle the hitch head. No need to completely disassemble the head to change the angle. It was actually FUN setting up this hitch...except for lifting the thing. I reiterate...the head is HUGE and feels it. I've never lifted a hitch head/drawbar so heavy.

I can't recommend this hitch enough. For anyone who wants an Equalizer type hitch but without the noise and more primitive design, the Husky Centerline seems to be the natural technological evolution. The compression cylinders are genious...and did I mention that there's no noise???



Hope this helps someone,
Jeff
Thanks for posting your experience with the Husky hitch, Jeff. There doesn't seem to be a lot of first-hand experience posted online about the Huskies, so this is great. To clarify, you have the HD (31390) not the TS (3221_). Both are referred to by Husky as the "Center Line" system (which makes things EXTREMELY confusing), but the HD is active with compression cynlinders in the head (which is why it's so heavy), and the TS is friction based like the Equalizer hitch (and not anywhere as good, in my opinion).
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