Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-09-2013, 10:57 PM   #29
George
 
2007 25' Classic
Calgary , Alberta
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 44
How about an Airsafe hitch?Receiver Hitch, Hitches | Trailer Hitch, Hitches

You can probably quite easily set up a remote control from your cab with a small compressor to deflate and inflate it. You'd get at least 2 or 3 inches of drop out of it. Maybe combined with a small unobtrusive ramp or some filling in of your dip might do the trick?
__________________

__________________
George
2007 Classic 25'/ 2013 Cayenne GTS/ 2015 GMC 2500HD Denali
gwmc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 05:49 AM   #30
3 Rivet Member
 
2013 20' Flying Cloud
Cream Ridge , New Jersey
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 124
I have seen where some others with this problem just added a heavy duty roller under the frame where it drags on the roadway going in and out of a driveway. If you can't find one at a trailer supply place I'm sure it would be a simple build for any decent welding shop.
__________________

__________________
Joe Palmieri is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 12:30 PM   #31
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by gwmc View Post
How about an Airsafe hitch?Receiver Hitch, Hitches | Trailer Hitch, Hitches

You can probably quite easily set up a remote control from your cab with a small compressor to deflate and inflate it. You'd get at least 2 or 3 inches of drop out of it. Maybe combined with a small unobtrusive ramp or some filling in of your dip might do the trick?
That is a very interesting hitch assembly. I have not seen this type before. I am afraid that just a couple of inches would not be enough in my case though. It looks like the unit has other merits that would be worth giving it consideration though. Have you used one of these?

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 12:32 PM   #32
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Palmieri View Post
I have seen where some others with this problem just added a heavy duty roller under the frame where it drags on the roadway going in and out of a driveway. If you can't find one at a trailer supply place I'm sure it would be a simple build for any decent welding shop.
I should at the very least consider adding rollers underneath to help project the skid bars in the back.

Does anyone reading this have a line on standard product rollers?

Thanks,

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 12:41 PM   #33
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Well I answered my own question. There are standard skid roller products available. Here is a small basic one at Amazon.com:

Amazon.com: Weld On Ultra Mini Roller: Sports & Outdoors

This one is also at Amazon.com and is larger and even has a grease fiting. It is also a lot more expensive than the one above.

http://www.amazon.com/Maxi-Weld-on-S...sim_sbs_auto_6

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 01:57 PM   #34
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
Rollers are a double edge sword. If you have any rear end issues, the frame moving up and down when you bottom out can buckle the skin. Even if the bolts are still good and the plywood is punky the frame can bounce up and buckle the skin. If you have a 73 with the original floor, I would be very surpised if the floor is still good in the back.

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2013, 09:39 PM   #35
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Rollers are a double edge sword. If you have any rear end issues, the frame moving up and down when you bottom out can buckle the skin. Even if the bolts are still good and the plywood is punky the frame can bounce up and buckle the skin. If you have a 73 with the original floor, I would be very surpised if the floor is still good in the back.

Perry
Good news on that front. I did a complete body on subfloor replacement a while back with a non-wood Polyboard subfloor. I also did some frame repair in the back end to replace a badly rusted cross member. I still don't really like the idea of the back end dragging though so I don't want to consider rollers to be the entire solution. If the back end does drag though it seems like it would be better for it to be on rollers rather than on the skid bars back there. It would at least be easier on the asphalt of the road in front of my house.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 04:44 AM   #36
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,824
I know it would be expensive, but why doesn't someone market a hitch like house moving rigs have? The rigs that move house trailers, mobile homes, modular or prefab homes have a hitch ball that moves up and down hydraulically. That could have an application in the RV world.
__________________
m.hony is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2013, 05:38 AM   #37
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar
 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,928
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
I know it would be expensive, but why doesn't someone market a hitch like house moving rigs have? The rigs that move house trailers, mobile homes, modular or prefab homes have a hitch ball that moves up and down hydraulically. That could have an application in the RV world.
I guess 3 reasons... Order sorta accidental...
1- expense
2- liability
3- other forums like this might be a bit critical

?
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 01:45 AM   #38
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Certainly I would not need one with the capacity to tow a manufactured home. I would like to see something scaled down to the right size for our sort of application though - as long as it wasn't way too expensive.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2013, 07:21 AM   #39
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,824
Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
I guess 3 reasons... Order sorta accidental...
1- expense
2- liability
3- other forums like this might be a bit critical

?
or something like a repo rig. The driver moves the hitch up or down from a button in the cab to lower the front of the trailer to allow more ground clearance at the rear of the trailer. This, too, would be expensive.
__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2013, 11:07 PM   #40
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
What I decided to do...

I have not been able to find an adjustable unit that would also work with my weight distribution arrangement. I also do not want to do without the WD unit under normal driving conditions. So finally I decided to follow one of the earlier recommendations in this thread. Namely to have a second hitch ball mount and ball at a lower level that I can swap out for the WD unit for exiting and entering our driveway. I took some measurements of my existing hitch ball assembly and found that I have about a 2" drop right now. So the new unit that I have just ordered from Amazon.com has a total of 8" of drop. Hopefully the extra 6" I will get with that unit will be enough. At least it is a relatively inexpensive experiment compared to some of the hitch assemblies out there. Here is a link to what I ordered.

CURT Manufacturing 45338 Heavy Duty 2" Ball Mount : Amazon.com : Automotive

I also ordered a second ball to mount on this unit so that at least I don't have to swap that too. I suppose it will be easy enough to swap between the two hitch ball mounts. I had hoped to avoid having to move the tow vehicle though. Perhaps if I pull straight forward and back straight up without turning the steering wheel I will be able to get back into alignment fairly quickly when I am changing from one hitch ball mount to the other. I will also have to consider blocking the wheels if there is any slope where I do the swap.

My next trip out will be about 1 month from now. Hopefully this solution will work OK. I will try to remember to update this thread when I find out.

Thanks for all of the suggestions...

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 10:18 PM   #41
1 Rivet Member
 
2013 30' International
Anna Maria , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 7
Have you thought about moving?
__________________
Lucky2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 10:53 PM   #42
Rivet Master
 
m.hony's Avatar
 
2013 30' Classic
Greenwood , Mississippi
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 11,824
Simply removing the weight bars will drop the tongue. You could stop in a parking lot a couple,of blocks from home and take off the weight bars...
__________________

__________________
2013 Classic 30 Limited
2007 Silver Toyota Tundra Crew Max Limited 5.7 iForce
2006 Vivid Black Harley-Davidson Road King Classic
1999 Black Nissan Pathfinder LE
TAC #MS-10
WBCCI #1811, Region 6, Unit 56
Airforums #70955
m.hony is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1995 Classic Excella Tongue Weight mybyebye Hitches, Couplers & Balls 2 01-03-2012 11:48 PM
Tongue weight danlehosky Hitches, Couplers & Balls 7 10-29-2011 05:16 PM
Great Voltage Drop Calculator tr0y Generators & Solar Power 1 08-24-2011 10:00 AM
New Silverado 2.5 receiver with 6 in drop, what to do? MikeAir Hitches, Couplers & Balls 11 05-25-2011 11:42 PM
Need Tongue Jack - Suggestions? kj78133 Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 16 02-23-2011 06:55 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.