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Old 08-18-2015, 04:00 PM   #85
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The main reason I liked the PP design over the older Hensley design is that the PP does NOT require drilling holes in my A-frame for struts. The PP linkage in the head is also a lot bigger and looks sturdier to me.

Towing, compared to a non sway control WD hitch is so much better. The AS simply tracks and follows without any 'push' when a big rig passes, and wind wander noon get occurs. I did get a discount direct from ProPride because I'm former military. You have to ask Sean directly.

I liked the easy install, have no issues hooking up or backing at really extreme angles, and my tailgate can go all the way down when hooked up. I'm happy with it, to put it mildly.


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Old 08-18-2015, 04:33 PM   #86
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I don't even know what the GVW of either of my two tow vehicles are...

And I don't much care, they do a good job with my trailer...
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:41 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danattherock View Post
As for the purpose of that post, a very specific question. Which is, how much weight would a properly set up WD hitch distribute to front tow vehicle axle, to trailer axles, and how much TW would remain on rear tow vehicle axle.
Dan, I attempted to provide an answer to the first two parts of your question in Post #57:
For your hypothetical combinaton, a properly set up HA/PP WD hitch would distribute a load equal to about 58% of tongue weight to the front axle -- restoring 100% of the load which was removed.
A corresponding load equal to about 23% of tongue weight would be transferred to the TT's axles.

Your previous post didn't ask how much would remain on the rear axle.
I stated that, with your combination of Escalade ESV, HA/PP, 30' AS, a load equal to about 158% of tongue weight would be added to the TV's rear axles with no WD applied.
With a load equal to 58% of TW being transferred to the front axle and a load equal to 23% of TW being transferred to the TT's axles, a load of 158%-58%-23% = 77% of TW remains on the TV's rear axle.

For a 1000# TW, an initial load of about 580# is removed from the front axle and a load of about 1580# is added to the rear.
Proper adjustment of the WDH would cause about 580# to be added back onto the front axle, leaving zero net load change on the front.
A load of about 230# is transferred to the TT's axles.
A load of about 580+230 = 810# is removed from the TV's rear axle, leaving a net load increase of about 1580-810 = 770# on the rear.

Another way of looking at it for your hypothetical combination and a properly set up WD (100% front axle load restoration per the Escalade Owners Manual):
zero TW is carried on the TV's front axle, 77% of TW is carried on the TV's rear axle, and 23% of TW is carried on the TT's axles.

Ron
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:46 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
I don't even know what the GVW of either of my two tow vehicles are...

And I don't much care, they do a good job with my trailer...

I believe you care from a different perspective.

You might try playing with difference between 100% FALR and TV equal fender squat. And then TV tire pressures. I believe you'd like knowing the range of things, (one old driving hand to another).

Looking for cross axle weight imbalance on the TT (sometimes correctable) is worth it.

Shouldn't be any on your truck, but hitch receiver weakness will be apparent, solo vs hitched in cross axle load checks.

Then you're down to slop in truck steering.
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Old 08-18-2015, 04:59 PM   #89
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Funny how these threads all end up with duplicate post from other threads.
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:04 PM   #90
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I know my tire ratings, I always buy good tires. Tires are our link to the roadway. And I made sure that my hitches are more than adequate, I even had to buy one for my Silverado as my bare bones 1/2 ton didn't come with one.

But, as far as GVW goes, a short drive will demonstrate the road worthiness of a combination in short order, when a person knows what a good towing vehicle feels like anyway.

These bumper mount trailers don't really put much load on a tow vehicle anyway, so long as a person loads with some intelligence.
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Old 08-18-2015, 05:45 PM   #91
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If you are buying an $80,000 trailer- the best- and a $70,000 tow vehicle- the best-
Why not buy the best hitch, too- $2,300?


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Old 08-18-2015, 06:12 PM   #92
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:31 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m.hony View Post
If you are buying an $80,000 trailer- the best- and a $70,000 tow vehicle- the best-
Why not buy the best hitch, too- $2,300?


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Well, there are a few reasons why one might not by a PPP/Hensley besides cost. I have read the "Official Propride" thread from top to bottom, now at 1200+ posts and this is what I have gleaned:

1. Extra ~100 lbs of tongue weight
2. Dealers, for the most part, cannot install the hitch properly, so one should be mechanically inclined
3. Many PPP purchases have trouble getting the setup correct - see #2
4. If the setup is not correct, you will have troubles - yoke out of alignment, weight jacks cranked too much or too little, not enough washers, too many washers, you get the point
5. Dealers don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
6. Storage yards don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
7. More skill require to hitch and unhitch - some get it right away and some never get it
8. There is only one source, the vendor - hope they keep selling so they stay in business

I have not doubt the PPP is one of the best hitches out there.

But, if you are not mechanically inclined with the proper tools or
if you have a storage yard where they need to move your trailer or
if you have a dealer and they need to move the trailer or
if you really don't want another ~100 lbs
the PPP may not be for you.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:38 PM   #94
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It also adds a foot to the overall length. Extra lever length, when distributing weight, puts more stress on the receiver.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:45 PM   #95
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I may never know-
But if money was no object I think I'd be inclined to find out-
Not that there's anything wrong with my Equal-i-zer or my previous EazLift.
Reese Dual Cam or Straight Line users really love their hitches, too, so I can only conclude that they do a good job. I can see how it would be a joy to tow with.


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Old 08-18-2015, 07:41 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacPDX View Post
Well, there are a few reasons why one might not by a PPP/Hensley besides cost. I have read the "Official Propride" thread from top to bottom, now at 1200+ posts and this is what I have gleaned:



1. Extra ~100 lbs of tongue weight

2. Dealers, for the most part, cannot install the hitch properly, so one should be mechanically inclined

3. Many PPP purchases have trouble getting the setup correct - see #2

4. If the setup is not correct, you will have troubles - yoke out of alignment, weight jacks cranked too much or too little, not enough washers, too many washers, you get the point

5. Dealers don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP

6. Storage yards don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP

7. More skill require to hitch and unhitch - some get it right away and some never get it

8. There is only one source, the vendor - hope they keep selling so they stay in business



I have not doubt the PPP is one of the best hitches out there.



But, if you are not mechanically inclined with the proper tools or

if you have a storage yard where they need to move your trailer or

if you have a dealer and they need to move the trailer or

if you really don't want another ~100 lbs

the PPP may not be for you.

Those are actually very good points (and I'm a PP user).

You've illustrated something I think most folks know but we seem to not talk about it much - there is no single "right" answer. EVERY solution has pros and cons. I think it's critical to know WHY one wants to do what one wants to do so when all pros and cons are weighed, s/he can make the optimal decision (which they can only apply to themselves) and be happy with it.

And everyone's calculus will be different. Even if 2 people had the same criteria (e.g., cost of ownership, safety, weight, convenience, etc.) odds are good their WEIGHTING of those criteria won't be the same.

Know why you want what you want, get it and be happy.
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:59 PM   #97
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TV And Trailer Pitch Up And Down

We have a short 2006 Sprinter TV and a 2008 17 foot Safari Sport AS. Our WD hitch is an Equal-i-zer with sliding bars, not chains. We get too much up and down motion when crossing undulating pavement. My previous trailer, 19 ft long, had Reese chain type WD hitch and I never noticed any excessive bounce. Also, it had tandum axels. This trailer is a single. I suspect that the chain type hitches would be better with bounce. The fact that this is a short trailer might be part of the problem.
Would it be better to get a hitch with heavier bars? My tougue weight is about 350 lbs. AS GVW is 3500 lbs and the van weighs about 5500 loaded. I would appreciate any helpul suggestions.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:45 PM   #98
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Post 73. I said he MAY have been equally impressed.. Read more carefully, please.
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