How does Reese WD w/sway control compare to Hensely/PP/Equalizer?

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Danattherock

I appreciate the criticism. I'm carrying an infant and toddler, and will just happen to be also towing a camper. Safety is my only priority. In the remainder of my post you didn't quote I was very specifically asking what realistic percentage of weight would be applied to front axles and trailer axles.



Layman's math suggest a transfer of 100 lbs now, 250-300 lbs later as kids grow, would have me within safety specs from manufacturers. Your quote only carries forward the background data, and does not include my actual question.



As for the purpose of that post, a very specific question. Which is, how much weight would a properly set up WD hitch distribute to front tow vehicle axle, to trailer axles, and how much TW would remain on rear tow vehicle axle.





Dan

About 65-75% of TW will remain on TV after WD is set. One might be over "rating" but that's a marketing thing. The real limit is axle/tire/wheel. Somewhere in between isn't a concern, overall.

If you want to mess with it, figure 80%. But nothing much changes with these guesstimates. A few hundred pounds is not a delineator of concern.

[philipsinewe]

As far as I know, there are not that many changes to the PP over the Hensley. PP likes to say it is the "New Design" which I suppose is technically true, but the changes are minor, again as far as I know. I admittedly can not say for certain.

I believe that from a function point of view, the no-sway design has not changed so it would not warrant a change for me.

I also offered to buy one from PP, but they did not budge on price at retail, which is certainly their choice. Ending up trading the HH hitch that was on my trailer (it was rode hard by the previous owner) and buying a reconditioned hitch. Considerably less cost than buying a PP hitch.

Having said that, PP owner do like the design and I have no doubt it works well, the design to eliminate sway is very solid in either.

[philipsinewe]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I've only towed with an Equalizer so I can't compare. But being new to towing the Equalizer has done its job and towing has been uneventful. No sway in strong crosswinds or passing trucks. The only complaint is keeping it greased to prevent grinding and other noises.

The question I have regarding Hensley and Propride owners who have switched from a friction WDH, do you find the tow vehicle and trailer combination corners better? I've seen CanAm's slalom videos but I don't think they were using a Hensely or ProPride system in those videos.

Kelvin

Yes it does corner better. I am not technically capable or interested in arguing why (though I believe I understand why), but yes it will out corner any normal hitch. I assume the PP will also, the mechanics are the same.

[Larry C]

If the Escalade is rated to pull 8200# you might look for either a lighter Airstream, or a heavier tow vehicle. That 30' Airstream, by the time you are loaded for a trip is going to weigh close to or possibly a bit more than 9,000 pounds.
Now I'm sure there will be conflicting ideas on that, but check it out. Any of the hitches that have been discussed here will do the job well, as long as it is properly setup to begin with.....I do lean towards the Reese Dual Cam, (Strait Line), as I've towed somewhere north of 200,000 miles with them.

For whatever it's worth.

Larry

Originally Posted by Danattherock

^^^^ Thanks Bill and Howie!!



This is my last hail marry before reluctantly accepting that I must buy a truck.


Ok guys. Saw the video of sedan yanking Airstream all over the road and slamming on brakes. Nobody died. If buying a HA or PP, would towing a 30' twin be safely doable with a new extended Escalade with 6.2L? I'm curious what such a hitch would add to that tow vehicle and camper combo.

I don't care about gas mileage. I don't care if I go uphill or downhill at slower speeds than others. My ONLY concern, that I hope you will evaluate, is safety. Staying upright and out of ditches. Slow is fine. 8-10 mpg towing is fine. Main use is weekend trips to Smoky Mountains 4-5 hours away.

Nothing scientific. Don't need a complete thread derail, as others will enjoy your insightful WD hitch info here in the future. Would like PMs if anyone willing to give me their honest opinion. That's often easier without being second guessed. Again, I'm off track from the thread. But I've clearly got the ear of many folks in the know. I've had to read some of these posts 2-3x to better understand them.

Extended Escalade rated to tow 8100 lbs as I recall. 8 speed transmission with tow/haul manual gear selecting, transmission cooler, oil cooler, true 4WD, not AWD, etc. The 6.2 L makes 420 HP and 460 ft/lbs as I recall. The Escalade has magnetic ride control, if that matters. Sounds nice, but I lack details on it. Auto leveling rear air is option, if not standard. Wired for trailer brake.

Payload of around 1500 lbs per door jamb sticker is the issue that previously concerned me, but if nothing in Escalade but human and dog weight, 650 lbs now, but 800 lbs in few years, with TW of 30' twin estimated at 1000 lbs, got nothing more to go on. Can you more seasoned guys give a quick yeah/neah with this amount of info?

What's the realistic amount of weight a HA/PP might transfer to front TV axle, and back to TT axles? These numbers seem to have the ability to make an iffy tow vehicle, within spec, or that's my thought. Is this a possible combo or am I once again barking up wrong tree.


PMs or replies here greatly appreciated.




Dan

[rmkrum]

The main reason I liked the PP design over the older Hensley design is that the PP does NOT require drilling holes in my A-frame for struts. The PP linkage in the head is also a lot bigger and looks sturdier to me.

Towing, compared to a non sway control WD hitch is so much better. The AS simply tracks and follows without any 'push' when a big rig passes, and wind wander noon get occurs. I did get a discount direct from ProPride because I'm former military. You have to ask Sean directly.

I liked the easy install, have no issues hooking up or backing at really extreme angles, and my tailgate can go all the way down when hooked up. I'm happy with it, to put it mildly.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

[J. Morgan]

I don't even know what the GVW of either of my two tow vehicles are...

And I don't much care, they do a good job with my trailer...

[Ron Gratz]

Originally Posted by Danattherock

As for the purpose of that post, a very specific question. Which is, how much weight would a properly set up WD hitch distribute to front tow vehicle axle, to trailer axles, and how much TW would remain on rear tow vehicle axle.

Dan, I attempted to provide an answer to the first two parts of your question in Post #57:
For your hypothetical combinaton, a properly set up HA/PP WD hitch would distribute a load equal to about 58% of tongue weight to the front axle -- restoring 100% of the load which was removed.
A corresponding load equal to about 23% of tongue weight would be transferred to the TT's axles.

Your previous post didn't ask how much would remain on the rear axle.
I stated that, with your combination of Escalade ESV, HA/PP, 30' AS, a load equal to about 158% of tongue weight would be added to the TV's rear axles with no WD applied.
With a load equal to 58% of TW being transferred to the front axle and a load equal to 23% of TW being transferred to the TT's axles, a load of 158%-58%-23% = 77% of TW remains on the TV's rear axle.

For a 1000# TW, an initial load of about 580# is removed from the front axle and a load of about 1580# is added to the rear.
Proper adjustment of the WDH would cause about 580# to be added back onto the front axle, leaving zero net load change on the front.
A load of about 230# is transferred to the TT's axles.
A load of about 580+230 = 810# is removed from the TV's rear axle, leaving a net load increase of about 1580-810 = 770# on the rear.

Another way of looking at it for your hypothetical combination and a properly set up WD (100% front axle load restoration per the Escalade Owners Manual):
zero TW is carried on the TV's front axle, 77% of TW is carried on the TV's rear axle, and 23% of TW is carried on the TT's axles.

Ron

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

I don't even know what the GVW of either of my two tow vehicles are...

And I don't much care, they do a good job with my trailer...

I believe you care from a different perspective.

You might try playing with difference between 100% FALR and TV equal fender squat. And then TV tire pressures. I believe you'd like knowing the range of things, (one old driving hand to another).

Looking for cross axle weight imbalance on the TT (sometimes correctable) is worth it.

Shouldn't be any on your truck, but hitch receiver weakness will be apparent, solo vs hitched in cross axle load checks.

Then you're down to slop in truck steering.

[AWCHIEF]

Funny how these threads all end up with duplicate post from other threads.

[J. Morgan]

I know my tire ratings, I always buy good tires. Tires are our link to the roadway. And I made sure that my hitches are more than adequate, I even had to buy one for my Silverado as my bare bones 1/2 ton didn't come with one.

But, as far as GVW goes, a short drive will demonstrate the road worthiness of a combination in short order, when a person knows what a good towing vehicle feels like anyway.

These bumper mount trailers don't really put much load on a tow vehicle anyway, so long as a person loads with some intelligence.

[m.hony]

If you are buying an $80,000 trailer- the best- and a $70,000 tow vehicle- the best-
Why not buy the best hitch, too- $2,300?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[J. Morgan]

. !

[MacPDX]

Originally Posted by m.hony

If you are buying an $80,000 trailer- the best- and a $70,000 tow vehicle- the best-
Why not buy the best hitch, too- $2,300?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

Well, there are a few reasons why one might not by a PPP/Hensley besides cost. I have read the "Official Propride" thread from top to bottom, now at 1200+ posts and this is what I have gleaned:

1. Extra ~100 lbs of tongue weight
2. Dealers, for the most part, cannot install the hitch properly, so one should be mechanically inclined
3. Many PPP purchases have trouble getting the setup correct - see #2
4. If the setup is not correct, you will have troubles - yoke out of alignment, weight jacks cranked too much or too little, not enough washers, too many washers, you get the point
5. Dealers don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
6. Storage yards don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
7. More skill require to hitch and unhitch - some get it right away and some never get it
8. There is only one source, the vendor - hope they keep selling so they stay in business

I have not doubt the PPP is one of the best hitches out there.

But, if you are not mechanically inclined with the proper tools or
if you have a storage yard where they need to move your trailer or
if you have a dealer and they need to move the trailer or
if you really don't want another ~100 lbs
the PPP may not be for you.

[rostam]

It also adds a foot to the overall length. Extra lever length, when distributing weight, puts more stress on the receiver.

[m.hony]

I may never know-
But if money was no object I think I'd be inclined to find out-
Not that there's anything wrong with my Equal-i-zer or my previous EazLift.
Reese Dual Cam or Straight Line users really love their hitches, too, so I can only conclude that they do a good job. I can see how it would be a joy to tow with.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by MacPDX

Well, there are a few reasons why one might not by a PPP/Hensley besides cost. I have read the "Official Propride" thread from top to bottom, now at 1200+ posts and this is what I have gleaned:



1. Extra ~100 lbs of tongue weight

2. Dealers, for the most part, cannot install the hitch properly, so one should be mechanically inclined

3. Many PPP purchases have trouble getting the setup correct - see #2

4. If the setup is not correct, you will have troubles - yoke out of alignment, weight jacks cranked too much or too little, not enough washers, too many washers, you get the point

5. Dealers don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP

6. Storage yards don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP

7. More skill require to hitch and unhitch - some get it right away and some never get it

8. There is only one source, the vendor - hope they keep selling so they stay in business



I have not doubt the PPP is one of the best hitches out there.



But, if you are not mechanically inclined with the proper tools or

if you have a storage yard where they need to move your trailer or

if you have a dealer and they need to move the trailer or

if you really don't want another ~100 lbs

the PPP may not be for you.

Those are actually very good points (and I'm a PP user).

You've illustrated something I think most folks know but we seem to not talk about it much - there is no single "right" answer. EVERY solution has pros and cons. I think it's critical to know WHY one wants to do what one wants to do so when all pros and cons are weighed, s/he can make the optimal decision (which they can only apply to themselves) and be happy with it.

And everyone's calculus will be different. Even if 2 people had the same criteria (e.g., cost of ownership, safety, weight, convenience, etc.) odds are good their WEIGHTING of those criteria won't be the same.

Know why you want what you want, get it and be happy.

[dalemonroe]

We have a short 2006 Sprinter TV and a 2008 17 foot Safari Sport AS. Our WD hitch is an Equal-i-zer with sliding bars, not chains. We get too much up and down motion when crossing undulating pavement. My previous trailer, 19 ft long, had Reese chain type WD hitch and I never noticed any excessive bounce. Also, it had tandum axels. This trailer is a single. I suspect that the chain type hitches would be better with bounce. The fact that this is a short trailer might be part of the problem.
Would it be better to get a hitch with heavier bars? My tougue weight is about 350 lbs. AS GVW is 3500 lbs and the van weighs about 5500 loaded. I would appreciate any helpul suggestions.

[xrvr]

Post 73. I said he MAY have been equally impressed.. Read more carefully, please.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by dalemonroe

We have a short 2006 Sprinter TV and a 2008 17 foot Safari Sport AS. Our WD hitch is an Equal-i-zer with sliding bars, not chains. We get too much up and down motion when crossing undulating pavement. My previous trailer, 19 ft long, had Reese chain type WD hitch and I never noticed any excessive bounce. Also, it had tandum axels. This trailer is a single. I suspect that the chain type hitches would be better with bounce. The fact that this is a short trailer might be part of the problem.
Would it be better to get a hitch with heavier bars? My tougue weight is about 350 lbs. AS GVW is 3500 lbs and the van weighs about 5500 loaded. I would appreciate any helpul suggestions.

You may have some setup options with your current Equal-I-zer hitch that could help that porpoising effect you describe.

You might also want to investigate the Andersen whose users say it handles porpoising better than any other hitch. It doesn't distribute a lot of weight but you apparently don't need to move much.

There are many threads here on both of those hitches that could be of some help. Good luck!

[Danattherock]

Originally Posted by MacPDX

Well, there are a few reasons why one might not by a PPP/Hensley besides cost. I have read the "Official Propride" thread from top to bottom, now at 1200+ posts and this is what I have gleaned:

1. Extra ~100 lbs of tongue weight
2. Dealers, for the most part, cannot install the hitch properly, so one should be mechanically inclined
3. Many PPP purchases have trouble getting the setup correct - see #2
4. If the setup is not correct, you will have troubles - yoke out of alignment, weight jacks cranked too much or too little, not enough washers, too many washers, you get the point
5. Dealers don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
6. Storage yards don't know how to move a trailer with a PPP
7. More skill require to hitch and unhitch - some get it right away and some never get it
8. There is only one source, the vendor - hope they keep selling so they stay in business

I have not doubt the PPP is one of the best hitches out there.

But, if you are not mechanically inclined with the proper tools or
if you have a storage yard where they need to move your trailer or
if you have a dealer and they need to move the trailer or
if you really don't want another ~100 lbs
the PPP may not be for you.

Thank you!!


Dan