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Old 07-24-2013, 03:49 PM   #1
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How do you level your trailer?

We just bought a 2013 22' and are still working through all the little tweaks to make it home. In doing so, we bought a couple bubble levels to install on the trailer, but cannot seem to actually get the trailer level. We are using another level to appropriately place the levels we bought (if that makes sense), but no matter where we put the level, something just isn't right. So far, we've tried using the interior floor, countertop, and dinette table as "level" guides, but when one of them is level, the other areas aren't level. It's very frustrating. So, for now, we're still eyeballing it. So... How do you level your trailer?
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Old 07-24-2013, 03:55 PM   #2
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The floor is your best bet. By the time you get to the countertop there are more variables in play. Basically you need to pick a point and stick with it, and since you're standing/walking on the floor, that's where you'd notice it the most. With a modern fridge, "close" is good enough, so just start from the floor where you can measure both ways with a carpenter's level, and get is as close as you can left-to-right with blocks (with the tongue jack you should be able to get the fore-and-aft level nearly perfect.)

Then install the outside levels accordingly, declare "good enough!" and have an adult beverage of your choice.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:05 PM   #3
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I mostly eyeball then decide which way my head will be on the bed and if I will fall out of bed or roll to the window. So far pretty accurate measure, although I carry a capenders level.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:35 PM   #4
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How do you level your trailer?

Hi, I guess this could be answered two different ways.

How do I level my trailer?

(1.) I use plastic leveling blocks under my tires to level my trailer from side to side.

(2.) I use my tongue jack to level my trailer from front to rear.

How do I level my trailer?

(1.) I used a carpenter's level, resting on top of my belt line molding, in the middle of one side of my trailer. [note: not all Airstreams come with a belt line molding] This allows you to level your trailer front to rear.

(2.) I used my carpenter's level on my battery box and on my rear bumper, they both agreed.

(3.) Now with my trailer sitting level in both directions, I mounted a large RV level in the front of my trailer, which can be seen from my tow vehicle's mirror and two small RV levels, one on each side near the front, to be checked when using my tongue jack.
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Old 07-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #5
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Someone else noticed that too? If you get it level on the a frame, it isn't level anywhere else. If you get it level at the rub rail, it isn't level anywhere else. If you get it level by the window sill, it isn't level anywhere else. I usually eyeball it and compare it with other RVs nearby. Most every site we pick is level side to side so all we are doing is leveling front to back with the tongue jack.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:00 PM   #6
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:11 PM   #7
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If you have an iPhone. Download the free version of RVCompanion. It has a leveler in the more tab.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:56 PM   #8
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My Airstream seems to lack parallel or exactly perpendicular walls and the floor is not parallel with the counter tops. The only item I have read about that really wants to see level is the refrigerator with fluid cooling of some sort.

Thus, I thought getting a level in the refrigerator and when it is right on, attach external bubble levels on the front and side of the trailer to reflect the happy level status of the refrigerator.

I doubt I would fall out of bed over the few degrees variation in level between various surfaces in the trailer.
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Old 07-24-2013, 05:59 PM   #9
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I was told to level the steel plate inside the freezer. The only thing important to be anywhere level in the trailer is the refrigerator. Once you have the refrigerator level - apply bubble levels outside.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:07 PM   #10
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After I back into a site, I put a small bubble leveler on my A-frame right behind the hitch. I use that to set right & left leveling and whether I need blocks under which wheel. I don't like sink splash flowing toward the wall. My kitchen & bathroom are curbside, so usually set that side a little high. And the same bubble leveler is used to set my fore-and-aft orientation. I know I could get more exact but it's easy and hard to beat.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:26 PM   #11
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Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:32 PM   #12
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We eyeball it, then go in and open the bathroom door. If it doesn't swing. it is level.
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:39 PM   #13
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If your trailer feels level to you and you are comfortable in it, then it is level. If you're not happy with that simple approach, pick a horizontal surface and use any inexpensive level. Always measure the same place exactly. If you use different horizontal surfaces, then you will eventually go insane, because they will not be the same. If you are really hung up on this in you trailer, go try leveling your house. You will find differences in different parts of your house. I guarantee it. So if you can live with it in your house, all it takes is the right attitude to live with it in your trailer.

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Old 07-24-2013, 07:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
We just eyeball it, but this sounds fun! I'm trying this technique next time!!
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Old 07-24-2013, 07:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollster View Post
We just eyeball it, but this sounds fun! I'm trying this technique next time!!
With a user name of Rollster, I am not surprised that the rolling can approach appeals to you.

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Old 07-24-2013, 08:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
Oh, come on! Roll beer??? That is alcohol abuse.
Debbie
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:15 PM   #17
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Disconnect trailer from TV or dial off your brakes...

We have the cellphone app. Engage, put on trailer floor or inside fridge access on outside (check that the fridge inside matches outside first), add boards under low side tires (drive forward and back to get AS tires on the boards). You can use "leveling blocks" but sometimes they are "too much" of a change. So, 2x6 boards about 12 inches long for each low side tire. You can use longer boards and they are handy on "squishy" parking sites. They can be long enough to go under all tires on each side if you like. That spreads the load nicely on the ground. This handy for long multiple night stays in same spot...it is amazing how a few thousand pounds can move the ground.

If on concrete, it is usually less of a concern.

You can then add a few pieces of 1/2, 3/4, 3/8 ply or plank for more accurate level setting using the forward/back method... This is where a longer board works well so new pieces don't skid as bad when trying to climb them.

Finally, carry 2 bottle jacks and use them to "fine tune" your level by jacking at the labeled spots on you trailer. But make sure the "front to rear level" is correct with tongue jack first! Also, place the jack on a board about three times the jack base size to carry the load.. ( watch about halfway into the movie "The Long, Long Trailer!" For WRONG way to use a bottle jack... Remember, tho, the actor portrays an engineer...

Now, deploy your "stabilizers"...and try to put on wood because it will hold better than the ground or a "leveling" block.

We bought some cheaper leveling blocks.. They crush easily on rocks and deform so they no longer stack in the sack they came in. Unfortunately they make lousy frisbees.

A trick for keeping stacked boards from sliding when climbing is to have round head screws on top of lower board to help "bite" the board above. Or, toss a handful of sand...(a coffee can of play sand works. ) or some fine gravel around the site such as found in a fire pit.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:58 PM   #18
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I keep an RV target level in the freezer as it's most important to have the frig level. Once leveled side to side using RV legos, chock the wheels, unhitch and level front to back. Fine tune using the bathroom door test as dkrug describes. Most of all, it has to feel right! When I cook breakfast and my egg slides to one side of the pan, I know I did it wrong!
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Old 07-25-2013, 04:44 AM   #19
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Using bottle jacks can twist the frame. Use blocks under the tires and the front jack to level. Then stabilize with the stabilizers. No bottle jacks on frame. Jim
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:37 AM   #20
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Small bubble levels on the front and side of our Airstream work well enough for us after using the tongue jack with blocks under the tire combo. We've been doing this almost since day one and have yet to fall out of bed
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