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Old 07-25-2013, 11:36 AM   #29

2003 25' Classic
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Originally Posted by Airtandem View Post
be careful pulling the tab after letting that beer roll around; you will waste alot of good beer."this BUD's on/for you"


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Old 07-28-2013, 04:57 PM   #30
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Thanks everyone! After a week in Colorado and two different camp sites I got it figured out. Here's what I learned. With the right side low the water from the A/C drips out up high next to the awning. Instead of down the drain and out by the drivers wheel well. So Over all it was an easy fix to get things close enough. Since the outside is metal and all. I have mounted one level in the wood under the forward bed that can be seen only when the outside storage door is open. As for left and right I mounted the second level with the tape method across the rear of the black/gray water sheet metal cover. I don't really like it that low to the ground, but it works for now. For what we spent you would think levels would be a standard feature. As for the floor being different than the tongue and it being different than the counter top yea how nice.

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Old 07-28-2013, 06:04 PM   #31
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Colfax , North Carolina
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I get it close, then loosen the mounting screws of the level, and adjust the level so the bubble is in the middle...
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:14 PM   #32
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1975 31' Sovereign
Pelzer , South Carolina
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I try to find a level spot side to side, if not, got the plastic level blocks and
a large level on the face of the trailer. Next, I installed a small bubble level
near the jack, that is set up to show that the fridge is level. My 38 year old Dometic
is pampered. I have really not found any correlation between that fridge and
any surface in the trailer as far as level goes.
Jim in Pima Az, enjoying our 1975 31 ft Airstream Sovereign
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:33 PM   #33
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I put the trailer in the driveway, then called up the bubble app on my iPhone and put the phone on the stove top. I then leveled the trailer to that using the tongue jack and a floor jack, then installed the stick on levels. If the stove top is level, everything else is close enough and when frying eggs they don't slide to one side of the pan.
I hate it when things slide to the edge of the pan when I am cooking.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #34
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I have come up with a new plan. I leave a small level on the floor in the curbside storage compartment- the one with the jack foot and wheel chicks. Up or down on the tongue jack until,it is level. This is what I did with out previous trailer as well.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:22 PM   #35
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1974 31' Sovereign
St Cloud , Florida
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Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
I think I'll use this what brand of baked beans do I need to buy? Lol
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:04 AM   #36
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I use a small level across the trailer tongue and the door entry. The test is whether cooking in a pan causes anything to move too far to one side. I don't worry over the fridge.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:51 AM   #37
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I agree with leveling the cooktop as the reference, everything else will be fine.

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Old 08-02-2013, 08:02 AM   #38
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We use a small carpenter's level on the rear bumper for side-to-side, and then place leggos under tires if necessary. For front-to-back , I put the level on the battery box, then I go inside the trailer and open the bathroom door. If it sits half open without moving, we're good.

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Old 08-02-2013, 08:46 AM   #39
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1999 34' Excella
NE Central , Kansas
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I see that most use the bathroom door (or shower door, in my case) as indication the Airstream is level enough. Once leveling is done, however, I was prone to over torqueing the stabilizing jacks, because they squeak if not 'tight'. I've given up trying to get rid of the squeaks, and just tighten to the bare minimum. The only thing I need now is a lock on the Tongue Jack switch so innocent neighbors can't mess with my careful level job.
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:56 AM   #40
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I use a 12 volt DeWalt driver/drill to lower and raise Lucy's stabilizers. This gives me a consistent torque value. I don't believe that I have ever had anyone mess with my electric tongue jack.

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Old 08-03-2013, 06:35 AM   #41
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Just remove the inline fuse to the jack after leveling and casual mischief can be thwarted.

I leave the fuse out when in storage for the same reason and as just another inconvenience for someone interested in "borrowing" the unit.
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Old 08-03-2013, 08:23 AM   #42
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Cat City , California
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I've never side-to-side leveled the trailer. Looks like way too much stuff to carry and way too much diddling for me. We level the fore-and-aft by using the jack and we're good to go. If the ground is uneven, I maneuver the trailer with the TV until it looks "good".

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