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Old 07-24-2013, 08:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Rollster View Post
We just eyeball it, but this sounds fun! I'm trying this technique next time!!
With a user name of Rollster, I am not surprised that the rolling can approach appeals to you.

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Old 07-24-2013, 09:11 PM   #16
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Psshht. I put a can Of baked beans on the floor. If it rolls fast, we got a problem. If it rolls slow, then hey, we didn't do so bad. If it doesn't move then its beer time!

I just thought of something...

Skip the beans and use the beer! Saves steps!
Oh, come on! Roll beer??? That is alcohol abuse.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #17
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Disconnect trailer from TV or dial off your brakes...

We have the cellphone app. Engage, put on trailer floor or inside fridge access on outside (check that the fridge inside matches outside first), add boards under low side tires (drive forward and back to get AS tires on the boards). You can use "leveling blocks" but sometimes they are "too much" of a change. So, 2x6 boards about 12 inches long for each low side tire. You can use longer boards and they are handy on "squishy" parking sites. They can be long enough to go under all tires on each side if you like. That spreads the load nicely on the ground. This handy for long multiple night stays in same spot...it is amazing how a few thousand pounds can move the ground.

If on concrete, it is usually less of a concern.

You can then add a few pieces of 1/2, 3/4, 3/8 ply or plank for more accurate level setting using the forward/back method... This is where a longer board works well so new pieces don't skid as bad when trying to climb them.

Finally, carry 2 bottle jacks and use them to "fine tune" your level by jacking at the labeled spots on you trailer. But make sure the "front to rear level" is correct with tongue jack first! Also, place the jack on a board about three times the jack base size to carry the load.. ( watch about halfway into the movie "The Long, Long Trailer!" For WRONG way to use a bottle jack... Remember, tho, the actor portrays an engineer...

Now, deploy your "stabilizers"...and try to put on wood because it will hold better than the ground or a "leveling" block.

We bought some cheaper leveling blocks.. They crush easily on rocks and deform so they no longer stack in the sack they came in. Unfortunately they make lousy frisbees.

A trick for keeping stacked boards from sliding when climbing is to have round head screws on top of lower board to help "bite" the board above. Or, toss a handful of sand...(a coffee can of play sand works. ) or some fine gravel around the site such as found in a fire pit.
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Old 07-24-2013, 10:58 PM   #18
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I keep an RV target level in the freezer as it's most important to have the frig level. Once leveled side to side using RV legos, chock the wheels, unhitch and level front to back. Fine tune using the bathroom door test as dkrug describes. Most of all, it has to feel right! When I cook breakfast and my egg slides to one side of the pan, I know I did it wrong!
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Old 07-25-2013, 05:44 AM   #19
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Using bottle jacks can twist the frame. Use blocks under the tires and the front jack to level. Then stabilize with the stabilizers. No bottle jacks on frame. Jim
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Old 07-25-2013, 06:37 AM   #20
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Small bubble levels on the front and side of our Airstream work well enough for us after using the tongue jack with blocks under the tire combo. We've been doing this almost since day one and have yet to fall out of bed
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:01 AM   #21
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I try to get a comparison between a carpenters level on the floor (both ways) and a smaller carpenters level on the freezer plate. The freezer plate reading is important but not if it is way different from the floor reading. There was a slight difference on our 2013 FC so I split the difference and installed the outside levels. Your head should always be at the top of the hill when sleeping and you don't want the bathroom or closet doors to constantly slam shut or full open the minute you let go of them. Finding a happy medium takes a little work sometimes but it is doable and well worth it. After pulling into your site you level side to side first with ramps or whatever you use for blocking, chock your wheels, unhitch then use the tongue jack for front to back leveling then lower the stabilizers.
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Old 07-25-2013, 07:19 AM   #22
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I keep a carpenters level near the entry door. I use that to set the level on the trailer.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:03 AM   #23
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legos under the wheels for side to side and tongue jack for forward and aft. I use a carpenters level when I remember to put one on board. My interior is not done yet so I'm always removing my camping gear to work on it and forget to put the level back in. A easy replacement is to fill a glass of water almost to the top, put the glass on the floor and look at your new bubble level. If you fill the glass with your favorite beverage it my take several glasses to make sure your trailer is truly level. After several attempts it just doesn't matter anymore.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #24
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I have a level mounted by a lower corner of the front window. Its one of those large levels made with a curved plastic tube and has a large metal ball inside. See the link: Camco 25563 RV AccuLevel : Amazon.com : Automotive

Once I have the trailer positioned on a campsite, I can see from the driver's seat how far off of level the trailer is, side to side.

Sometimes backing in or pulling forward a little will do the trick, but if not, I can tell from experience by the position of the ball in that level what I will need under the trailer wheels, be that some 1x or 2x planks. I have a nice collection of leveling planks that I always travel with.

Lay those planks beside the trailer wheels on the low side, pull forward enough to get the planks into position and then back up onto them.

The level on the trailer also has a small bubble level that indicates front to back pitch. Once the trailer is disconnected from the truck you just use the power jack to get that level.

I make a final check with a small bubble level in the fridge.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:52 AM   #25
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I bought two sets of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AA4RWM

When I set up my dual cam hitch I leveled the trailer precisely with a 4' carpenters level.

Then I stuck the Hopkins levels on for future quick set up

Brad
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:50 AM   #26
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Two purposes to leveling.

1, Fridge level to function.
2, Not roll out of bed.

So I found a counter top that was the same as the freezer bottom and use that to check level.

First do side to side and then tune front to back with the jack.

You don't have to be exact on the precise button.
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Old 07-25-2013, 09:54 AM   #27
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be careful pulling the tab after letting that beer roll around; you will waste alot of good beer."this BUD's on/for you"
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Old 07-25-2013, 11:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I was told to level the steel plate inside the freezer. The only thing important to be anywhere level in the trailer is the refrigerator. Once you have the refrigerator level - apply bubble levels outside.
Exactly
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