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Old 11-10-2014, 06:07 PM   #1
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Hitches for softer ride?

Apologies for another hitch thread...

I know about Airsafe, but is anyone out there using a different brand of hitch that provides a much softer ride for the AS? I lost my mind and bought a new truck that sits a bit higher, and has a bit harsher ride than my old TV. Currently, I am using an Equalizer (10,000 bars) with no additional damping.

Right now, the Airsafe looks like a good option in concert with the Equalizer. I've also thought about going to a Blue Ox for the WD side.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:45 PM   #2
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Step One

Lose the Equalizer for a hitch with tapered bars


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Old 11-10-2014, 08:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
Step One

Lose the Equalizer for a hitch with tapered bars

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Slow - why would the OP do this? I'd appreciate the education. Thanks!
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:56 PM   #4
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Slow - why would the OP do this? I'd appreciate the education. Thanks!
I would second the recommendation. A round tapered WD bar, will flex more for a given weight rating than a square cross section bar, and thus absorb more of the shock being transferred from the TV to the trailer.

This is based on the Equal-Izer original hitch. I haven't looked into the newer ones.

Ken
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Old 11-10-2014, 09:23 PM   #5
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What is the tow vehicle? I don't think that there is a one answer fits all.
The equal-I-zer that I use with my 25fb is perfect because I have a 1/2 ton. If I got more truck of course I would get lighter bars but I wouldn't want the springy tapered end bars again. Too much bounce.
Really this all depends on what the OP bought. Maybe if it's enough truck you could recommend the Andersen?


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Old 11-11-2014, 07:14 AM   #6
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Hitches for softer ride?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ag&Au View Post
I would second the recommendation. A round tapered WD bar, will flex more for a given weight rating than a square cross section bar, and thus absorb more of the shock being transferred from the TV to the trailer.

This is based on the Equal-Izer original hitch. I haven't looked into the newer ones.

Ken

This

I would also set up the WD according to truck operator manual spec. Some of the new ones may only want 50% of FALR.

Then weigh rig wheel by wheel. Set TV tires to minimum pressure per truck operator manual spec (axle spec is per heaviest tire load) and test for pressure rise afterwards.

KONI FSD shocks if available

.

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Old 11-11-2014, 02:50 PM   #7
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What is the tow vehicle? I don't think that there is a one answer fits all.
The equal-I-zer that I use with my 25fb is perfect because I have a 1/2 ton. If I got more truck of course I would get lighter bars but I wouldn't want the springy tapered end bars again. Too much bounce.
Really this all depends on what the OP bought. Maybe if it's enough truck you could recommend the Andersen?


George
George, the new TV is a 2014 F350, Crew Cab, Long bed.
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Old 11-11-2014, 03:15 PM   #8
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Not the best matched combo in the world but I would add the Airsafe to your Equal-I-Zer based on good reports by others using it. Andersen has no spring bars which also means it has virtually no flexibility.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:22 PM   #9
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I read folks with F-350s like me are getting smoother ride with Bilstein shocks. I'm giving that some serious thought. I also read about the Airsafe hitch, but that option isn't available to me because of my Propride no sway hitch. The Airsafe appears to extend the hitch ball another 10" rearward. It's better to get the pivot point as close to the rear axle as possible.

Our F-350s are rigid trucks so they can haul more weight. You won't get much rear end squat when you drop on your 25 footer, so you may not have to draw up the weight distribution bars very much. But you will want some sway control.

Consider a better shock absorber for your truck. It may dampen some of the bounce out of the vehicle - trailer combination. Note, the Rancho (sp) FX4 off road shock is not the one for me. It is stiffer yet. It's for driving across plowed fields and the like.

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Old 11-12-2014, 12:53 PM   #10
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Wink

There are several inferences that can be drawn from this thread that are above my pay grade, so maybe you pro's can give me some insight.

I have an older, round bar (& chain) WD hitch that I used on my Chevy 1500. It has 1000 lb bars. I've upgraded to a 2500 and re-set the hitch to tow my 27 FB perfectly level and the "squat" of the TV the same front and rear.

1. Do I infer that I should get softer (say 750 #) bars?
2. Am I shaking the Bejeezus out of my AS by sticking with the old bars?

(I can see something like a Hensley or ProPride in my future when I'm rich, but what do I do in the meantime? )
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Old 11-12-2014, 01:36 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by The Ice Man View Post
There are several inferences that can be drawn from this thread that are above my pay grade, so maybe you pro's can give me some insight.

I have an older, round bar (& chain) WD hitch that I used on my Chevy 1500. It has 1000 lb bars. I've upgraded to a 2500 and re-set the hitch to tow my 27 FB perfectly level and the "squat" of the TV the same front and rear.

1. Do I infer that I should get softer (say 750 #) bars?
2. Am I shaking the Bejeezus out of my AS by sticking with the old bars?

(I can see something like a Hensley or ProPride in my future when I'm rich, but what do I do in the meantime? )
You will probably get varying answers. However I say leave it as is. According to the specs on Airstream's site, your tongue weight is more than 750#. Therefore if you went to 750# bars you would be exceeding the design limits of the bars.

Drive at a speed appropriate to the road surface, and you won't beat your trailer up.

Ken
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Old 11-12-2014, 04:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Ice Man View Post
There are several inferences that can be drawn from this thread that are above my pay grade, so maybe you pro's can give me some insight.

I have an older, round bar (& chain) WD hitch that I used on my Chevy 1500. It has 1000 lb bars. I've upgraded to a 2500 and re-set the hitch to tow my 27 FB perfectly level and the "squat" of the TV the same front and rear.

1. Do I infer that I should get softer (say 750 #) bars?
2. Am I shaking the Bejeezus out of my AS by sticking with the old bars?
How much front-end "squat" are you achieving?

Until a couple years ago, Chevrolet specified that the WDH should be adjusted to return the front end to the unhitched height -- not below.
Since about 2012 Chevrolet has specified that the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate only 50% of the front-end rise.
For some configurations, they now specify that a WDH is not needed.

If you want to make the front-end load greater than when unhitched, you probably cannot achieve that with 750# bars.
If you do achieve it with 750# bars, the bars probably will be overloaded.

Ron
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Old 11-12-2014, 09:44 PM   #13
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Because I was encountering so many rough roads I added the Airsafe to my Equalizer and have been very pleased with the combination.
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Old 11-12-2014, 11:45 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drathaar View Post
Apologies for another hitch thread...

I know about Airsafe, but is anyone out there using a different brand of hitch that provides a much softer ride for the AS? I lost my mind and bought a new truck that sits a bit higher, and has a bit harsher ride than my old TV. Currently, I am using an Equalizer (10,000 bars) with no additional damping.

Right now, the Airsafe looks like a good option in concert with the Equalizer. I've also thought about going to a Blue Ox for the WD side.

Thanks in advance.
Machine down your 10k bars for a softer ride ...search my old posts for detailed instructions.
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