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Old 02-20-2010, 02:18 PM   #29
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my wish list

The Sherline 1,000 is on my Amazon wish list -- when you buy it for me just be sure to check off on the wish list so no one else also buys me one.

Hoping, hoping, hoping . . .

Jim
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Old 02-20-2010, 04:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamStreamr View Post
The Sherline 1,000 is on my Amazon wish list -- when you buy it for me just be sure to check off on the wish list so no one else also buys me one.

Hoping, hoping, hoping . . .

Jim
Jim

Be on the safe side and order the 2000lb model. Very glad I did.

Bob
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:41 PM   #31
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1k vs 2k

Yeah, you're right Bob. When hitch weight could reasonably sit at 15% of 6,500 pounds, I'd already be at 97.5% of the scale's range. Let's go for the 2K model. Thanks for the reminder -- good advice.

Revising my Amazon.com wish list so you guys can get me the right one for my birthday this summer,

Jim
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:38 AM   #32
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The bathroom scale works ok with single axle trailers, but presents a problem when attempting to weigh the tounge weight of a tandem axle trailer, along with most any other scale.

A tandem axle trailer, must be perfectly level, in order to obtain the correct tongue weight.

If the front of the trailer is higher than level, the weight reading will be higher than the actual true tongue weight.

Also, if the front of the trailer is lower than level, the weight reading will be lower than the actual true tongue weight.

Andy
Just for giggles; using the 2k Sherline model, my 25' Safari SS sitting winterized, i.e. no water, no food, 2 full LPG tanks, no adult beverages...

Measured at the coupler:
@15.5" (lower than towing) = 680#
@19.25" (normal towing height) - 790#
@ 22" (higher than towing) - 845#
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:41 AM   #33
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Just for giggles; using the 2k Sherline model, my 25' Safari SS sitting winterized, i.e. no water, no food, 2 full LPG tanks, no adult beverages...

Measured at the coupler:
@15.5" (lower than towing) = 680#
@19.25" (normal towing height) - 790#
@ 22" (higher than towing) - 845#
Great post!!

Shows how important towing level is.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:12 AM   #34
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Just for giggles; using the 2k Sherline model, my 25' Safari SS sitting winterized, i.e. no water, no food, 2 full LPG tanks, no adult beverages...

Measured at the coupler:
@15.5" (lower than towing) = 680#
@19.25" (normal towing height) - 790#
@ 22" (higher than towing) - 845#

Now, if you could try those weights again, but do it in 1/2 inch increments, it would, I think, much better paint the picture, for many owners, as to "why" having the trailer level, "IS" important.

Andy
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:56 PM   #35
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Andy,

I'm in the process of loading for a trip this weekend so I'll grab some measurements as you suggest, this time loaded for the road.

Marc
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Old 08-27-2017, 11:54 AM   #36
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I don't have an AirStream but this topic answered a few questions that should have been obvious to me so I figured I'd repay that with a necropost and clear up a couple of things for those that wanted accuracy on their hitch weights.



The bathroom scale trick. It's math, it works 100%, however.
All scales have a fudge factor, truck scales are something in the order of 50kg, 100lbs. The other problem is scales have a set point where that accuracy is set. Generally you set the scale at the intended target. So truck scales it's apx 40,000 lbs. At the extreme ends of the scale range it can be out 10%.
Bathroom scales are in the order of 1/2lb some as bad as 2 lbs. Target is generally 150 lbs. Put 5 packs of 1lb bacon on the scale and you'll be surprised, put something you know weighs 150lbs on it and it'll be much closer if not exact.
Why that matters, we're too light to use a truck scale for accurate hitch weight. When using a bathroom scale set your fulcrum distance so that you're aiming at 150-200 lbs on the scale.
Finished accuracey of the scale. multiply your fudge factor by the fulcrum distance. So if the scale is out 2lbs, and your multiplier is 4, you have +/-8lbs to work with. 1/2lb will be 2lbs. Very livable numbers.


Hitch height. How this will affect your hitch weight on single, double, or even tri axle depends on where the absolute CofG is on your trailer. The lower it is the less affect it has on the hitch.
A big oops that I've seen done many many times is setting the height with a dead level trailer. I've never yet seen one tow dead level, too many variables.
Seen many gentlemen come in and get the hitch set with an empty TV, then complain that the trailer was nose down on their trip.
Load both the tow vehicle and trailer as per trip, including people if you're not using a full size truck. Place trailer on TV with any hitch height (guess close). Measure the amount the TV drops, and whatever adjustment you need to get the trailer level. Use that to take your second measurement. Depending on how far out you were the first time you should only need one correction. Single axles with High C/G might find they need 2.

Even my 3/4 ton drops 2-4 inches when I drop 1k on the hitch. With 1k of 5th wheel and 1k of work tools she squats about 6". It's enough that I raise my hitch one bolt hole traveling to jobsites. Airbags soon. My Jeep will drop the hitch 2" with 2 adults in the back seat.

Angle is better than pipes, but I've never had anything roll... YET.. lol
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Old 08-27-2017, 12:43 PM   #37
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Hi

The same "expected range" thing comes in when you do the scale zero process outlined in the original post. The scale designer expected some drift over the life of the scale. He didn't expect ten pounds of pipe and wood. How much this impacts accuracy - who knows.....

If you are within 10% of one or another limit when you weigh the tongue, that's to close. Do something about the loading. None of this is NASA grade measurement (and they missed Mars ...). As mentioned in the thread, there are a bunch of variables between what you measure and what you may actually "see" on your receiver or hitch ball.

Bob
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