Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-26-2008, 02:58 PM   #15
4 Rivet Member
 
1998 28' Excella
Dolores , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 324
I would think the draw bar would not be the culprit and the 2x2 hitch box would be doing the wallowing out. I have a Ford product and the hitch was put on by an after market dealer. A couple of years ago while in Casa Grande, AZ it sounded like I had shocks going out of my p.u.. We put new shocks on and it was o.k. for a day or so then it started knocking again. When we got back from the Region 11 rally and getting ready to go to International in Salem I had my mechanic look at the hitch and he found that a couple of the bolts loosened and was causing the knocking . Haven't had any probem since. Make sure you check your hitches to make sure they are installed solidly.

__________________
Bob
Four Corners Unit/CAC
WBCCI # 10105
AIR # 28748
__________________

__________________
dogpound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 03:54 PM   #16
3 Rivet Member
 
tintent's Avatar
 
1996 34' Limited
humboldt , Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 126
We pull a 34 foot with a Ford Excursion. Our hitch (stinger) had about 80,000 miles on it and was beginning to get sloppy-- loose. We had it welded (about 6 or 7 beads) and then grinded down to fit. Now, it works fine.
__________________

__________________
tintent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 05:41 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
hshovic's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
Bozeman , Montana
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 222
Images: 20
I have tried a hitch quieter, an item from camping world that locks around the receiver with a set screw, as well as aluminum chocks driven in and locked by a frame. All eventually came loose since there is so much stress in that area. The problem went away after buying a new truck (a GM) which has a tight fit.
__________________
Hank
WBCCI 1489 AIR 20708
2015 Chevy 3/4 ton 4 x 4 gas; 2007 Safari FB SE
"Its better to light just one candle than to curse the darkness,
Unless you're blinded by the light..."
hshovic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2008, 11:10 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
1992 34' Limited
Falls Church , Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 945
Me TOO!!!!

I also had a similar problem, but it started after I took off the OEM Chevy hitch (due to the failure issues - mine had no probs, but didn't want to take a chance with 3 kids and a 34 footer) and got an aftermarket Class V installed.

The aftermarket hitch Box was INDEED TOO BIG. I checked with 3 different receiver lugs and the OEM hitch - I kept it (in case I sell the truck). I then wrote emails to the manufacturer and they sent me a Brand New hitch, and paid to have it re-installed.

The defective Class V had a Reciever Box that was oversized. When I posted here about my problem, I was told to try all the solutions mentioned, but as this was clearly a new receiver issue I decided to go the manufacturer route. This would, of course be MUCH MORE DIFFICULT since you would be dealing with GM, but what have you got to lose?

In my way of thinking, if you approach them from a 'This is a SAFETY ISSUE' angle, you might be able to get them to remount a new hitch for you. Has it done this since new?? If so, then it is certainly a warrenty issue, and they should honor it - heck go out and measure that sucker!

Not sure of the size of your trailer, but as you mention, it is reasonable to think that this reduces the effect of your WD and therefore your margin of safety. Not a good idea.

Get it checked, or changed out ASAP!

My .02 cents

Silvertoy
__________________
SilverToy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2009, 05:18 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
OK, here's an update on this topic. Finally I'm to the point where I want to start doing some things after the back surgery, and had a friend (that owed me) come over and help with the heavy stuff.

Before starting, I measured both the receiver and the hitch shank, and there is way too much clearance....the receiver measured 2.06", and the hitch shank 1.95". .110" clearance and that is the problem. In addition, I had stopped by Northern Tool a while back, and picked up a new receiver and thought I would just change it out, but it measures 2.17" inside....even worse, so it's more than just a GM thing.

Anyway, I drilled holes in the appropriate places, one on the underside close to where the shank goes in, and one on the side where it would contact metal on the Reese hitch shank. I wanted the strain to be away from the set screws where possible. Taped those holes, and welded nuts over the holes, so the set screws (3/8") have the maximum amount of threads, and the hitch locks in place perfectly.

I have not towed the trailer with it yet, but that will come this weekend as we are going to a unit rally. By the way, the steel in the receiver box is very hard, and strong. Very hard to drill and tap, so it should hold up well. I'll report back after the weekend trip on how well it all works.
__________________
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2009, 06:26 PM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
2008 31' Classic
Sweet Valley , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 92
On a Hensley or a Propride, once your jack it in......I don't think anything moves anyway
__________________
TROPHYJIM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2009, 06:34 PM   #21
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Quote:
Originally Posted by TROPHYJIM2 View Post
On a Hensley or a Propride, once your jack it in......I don't think anything moves anyway
It might not move on the Hitch end, but with the clearances I measured, it would move on the receiver end. And, I have a dual cam Reese.
__________________
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 06:27 AM   #22
2 Rivet Member
 
2008 31' Classic
Sweet Valley , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 92
I am not familiar with the Reese, but with the significant weight transfer to my TV with the Propride I get VERY little if any movement in the reciever once jacked up. With the Jacks up and hitch pin out I could (and have by mistake when drifting away to separate from the TV) pull the trailer if I forget to let the Jacks down. That happened once and now I don't forget to always relax the jack system. Essentually the Hitch "welds" itself to the top of the reciever when the jacks are engaged, no side movement either that I can tell.
I also have what appears to be a wider than needed reciever and considered the same issues........but I just don't seem to have any problems with this with the Propride set up.


Jim
__________________
TROPHYJIM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 06:36 AM   #23
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Jim,

I have read on this forum where Hensley users have stated the trailer will "move around" behind the tow vehicle, but not sway. I wonder if this "move around" is not because of side to side movement of the draw bar, or whatever Hensley calls the part that goes into the receiver.

The reason I even started with this idea was I have had Reese hitches in the past with a tight receiver (88 GMC Suburban), and the thing just drove like it was on rails. The hitch I have now, although a later model with the newer generation of cams, just does not have the quality of sway control my older hitch had. Yes there are differences in the two systems, but only in looks and installation method....the theory of operation is the same. However, as I remember, the hitch head fit snugly in the receiver of the old Sub. So........

Additionally, in theory, the Reese will transfer the same amount of weight as the ProPride or Hensley given all else is the same, so the amount of "weld" to the receiver should be the same.
__________________
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 08:19 AM   #24
2 Rivet Member
 
2008 31' Classic
Sweet Valley , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 92
I can only speak from my experience....no movement that I can tell with the Propride when jacked.

Prior to Propride I had an old Reese set up with chains, and had movement with the same reciever, you would actually hear the bump bump when stopping or turning. I did have the very same concerns you had at that point, and actually thought my reciever was the wrong size for the hitch. There is a lot of room there.
__________________
TROPHYJIM2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 09:19 AM   #25
ProPride, Inc.
Commercial Member
 
Sean Woodruff's Avatar
 
Grand Blanc , Michigan
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 618
Send a message via Skype™ to Sean Woodruff
When towing down the road with either the ProPride or the orange the hitch bar will not move in a sloppy receiver due to the force of the weight distribution. However, when navigating through a campground, at slow speeds and on uneven ground between the TV and Airstream, the hitch bar can hit against the side of the receiver and cause a noise.

The load that is applied by the weight distribution stores the energy that is released by changes in elevation between the TV and Airstream. Even a small gap between the hitch bar and receiver will release the hitch bar and "slap" it against the receiver.

The fix for that with the ProPride or the orange is some dry lube in the receiver so that the bar will not suddenly release and cause the noise. If I had this issue with a conventional hitch I would be looking at doing what has been discussed here because it can affect the pivot point location.
__________________
ProPride Hitch
"The Next Generation in Trailer Sway Elimination"
Grand Blanc, MI
Tu ne cede malis
Sean Woodruff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 09:38 AM   #26
Rivet Master
 
SteveH's Avatar
 
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,311
Sean,

I would only ask one question of you....why is the "pressure" on the receiver greater on the ProPride and the "orange" hitch than any other weight distributing hitch?

Not trying to be argumentative, just curious as I have no experience with those hitches.
__________________
SteveH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2009, 10:00 AM   #27
ProPride, Inc.
Commercial Member
 
Sean Woodruff's Avatar
 
Grand Blanc , Michigan
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 618
Send a message via Skype™ to Sean Woodruff
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Sean,

I would only ask one question of you....why is the "pressure" on the receiver greater on the ProPride and the "orange" hitch than any other weight distributing hitch?

Not trying to be argumentative, just curious as I have no experience with those hitches.

I don't think it is. I didn't mean to insinuate that it is.

However, the side to side forces on the hitch ball with a conventional hitch, multiplied by the distance of the hitch ball to the receiver, may be great enough to overcome that weight distribution force and allow the hitch bar to shift in the receiver.
__________________
ProPride Hitch
"The Next Generation in Trailer Sway Elimination"
Grand Blanc, MI
Tu ne cede malis
Sean Woodruff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2009, 05:44 PM   #28
4 Rivet Member
 
Livingston , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
---The objective is not only to have no rattle, but to have NO movement between the hitch parts which should, in my opinion, improve the anti-sway caracteristics of any hitch system.
Steve,

I fully agree. Every sway-control hitch, except for the PullRite, must transmit a yaw-axis torque between TT and TV via the receiver.

If the front end of the drawbar moves 1/8" toward one side and the rear moves 1/8" toward the other side and the distance between the front and rear contact points is 8", you will have a yaw-axis "play" of about +/- 2 degrees.

A yaw-axis "play" of +/- 2 degrees will produce a lateral movement of about +/- 1' at the rear of a 30' trailer. If there is any yaw-axis "play" between the drawbar and the receiver, the effectiveness of the sway control will be diminished.

Ron
__________________

__________________
Ron Gratz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
set screw on power jack mj81excella Jacks, Stabilizers, Lifting and Leveling 8 05-26-2008 09:59 AM
Hey, hitch heads - what do you think of this set-up? MG911 Hitches, Couplers & Balls 17 08-05-2007 08:19 AM
Shank too long for Reese Hitch? Bakes5 Hitches, Couplers & Balls 8 04-19-2007 07:57 PM
Frozen set screw guy99 General Motorhome Topics 2 06-15-2005 09:28 PM
hitch set-up? remark83 Hitches, Couplers & Balls 3 05-16-2003 07:24 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.