Can anybody point to a thread that discusses hitch locks? I know I’ve seen a thread or two on this before, but can’t seem to find them now. I’ve had a couple of problems with the search feature today (it’s me, not the site). I have kind of an emergency need to get one, but I’m interested a little more knowledge before I plunk down the money. I seem to recall that at least one of these locks could be easily defeated in some way.
Search is working okay for me now. I know the forums went off the air for a while yesterday mid-evening. Might have taken a while to get everything up and running....
I credit John Irwin with what I use. Do a search on Blaylock. I like it. It would catch the unprepared ji-hacker unawares, but all any of these would do is slow down the determined thief. The Blaylock is only aluminum, so with my eu2000i and Makita grinder I could have it off in a couple of noisy minutes.
the master lock brand is very heavy duty and in no way I can see that it
could easily be broken into .It fits completely over the coupler ,then it has a
solid hardened pin that you thread up into the bottom side of the coupler
by way of a small opening in the bottom of the lock .you use an allen key
or wrench to screw that large pin into the coupler (the allen key comes with
the lock)then you rotate the main lock cylinder with a round key that covers
the allen wrench access hole .very beefy lock.There are similar types that
look the same as the master lock brand .I used one for years on SOB trailer
and it did the job.now the main thing is to get the one that fits your coupler.
they have many sizes and such.Our 60 trdwnd could not utilize this type do
to the extra welded area on the very front edge of the atwood coupler and
( it is the original one ,most airstreams used the marvel couplers),so i used one that fit thru the eyeloop of the coupler latch and ratchets up into the bottom of the coupler solidly .I believe it could be smashed off if needed ,
or torched or?? if someone really wanted to do that.the trdwnd sits right out front of the house and garage so it is not hidden from view .any way I cannot see that happening with the locks that cover the whole coupler ,they would be there forever smashing away ,with no luck I hope .Get the best lock they
make ,I recommend the master lock if you can get the correct one.
I am interested in what you use Scott. Can you post a picture? My lack of technical knowledge gets in the way.... but a pic could show me the way!
Thanks.
Jim,
I use a standard master Combination Lock. The Brass ones with a steel shackle. Four numbers. Can be re used if necessary. Picked it up at Lowes.
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ill get a photo tomorrow friday and post it here. Once you see the master lock i have mentioned (its gold tone in color) you will see that it is made
not to be removed without the key.Quite different than the master lock
listed at the link provided,that one could also work though on my early
coupler also .The padlock can be removed in seconds with bolt cutters
I would give the thief more of a struggle with the best lock I can get,
so hopefully he can't get my airstream .
Hi, I decided from research on this forum that I need/want to purchase two items for my trailer. First I want a Guardian G-37 coupler lock. And second, I want one or two BAL #28005 wheel chocks. Where can I find the best prices on these? Camping World Has the Guardian coupler locks on sale for about $33.00, but have to special order the G-37 model for $42.00. Also they have the BAL #28005 wheel chocks for $54.00 each. From your experience do know where I can get a better price that won't get washed away by shipping charges?
We haven't used it in a while since the Airstream is on our property and when we have been camping we have just used the long padlock that goes through the hole of the lift mechanism for the ball lock that we also use while we are hitched up.
I have wondered if those wheel chocks work if you let some of the the air out of the tires???
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