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Old 03-05-2013, 11:20 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by kry226 View Post
WILCO, sir. Heck, I might even document the occasion. (And hopefully nothing else breaks.)
Excellent!
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:15 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
I'm the suggesting that the exact model number of your hitch searched on the manufacturers website will provide the factual answer. I don't have my hitch model number handy today, but I searched this a while back and IIRC, mine was not servicable at the component/repair kit level. I'm sure we'll figure it out.
Research complete. The part number stamped into my hitch, or A-Frame Coupler, is 88007. The attached repair instructions shows part number 88061 as the repair kit for this coupler. This is the kit I have on-hand. I'll probably do the repair this afternoon, or more likely tomorrow when the nippy wind dies down and we get a few more degrees on the mercury (the new Boondocker might get itself installed too).

More to follow.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Hitch Repair Instructions.pdf (4.02 MB, 93 views)
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:47 AM   #17
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Can you see a model number of your hitch thru the paint? Mine (2007 Classic) is stamped in the metal, don't have the number but I researched mine and it was non-servicable IIRC.
Hmmm, I have an '07 27FB Classic and would assume the 2 5/16" coupler on all recent Airstreams would be the same but it's always a good idea to verify part numbers. I tapped the roll pin out and found it was simple to remove and replace the latch. The reason I took mine out was to clean the old grit laden grease out of the coupler. I bought one to keep on hand as it looks like something that could cause a headache if it became a problem in some out of the way location.

One thing that has worked very well for me during the hitch/unhitch process is to chock the trailer in both directions then loosely chock the TV and leave it in neutral. The coupler will then latch/unlatch with no binding. Then when using the tongue jack to raise the combo to assist in latching the WD bars, the TV is free to move fore/aft relieving the lateral pressure on the jack post assy.
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:34 PM   #18
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Found my answer.

kry226,

OK, glad you found your repair kit very good. Now here's my Rest of the Story:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...d-91132-5.html

Look at post #58, the pdf is for atwood couplers and repair kits, mine is an 81912 THUMB LATCH and on page 2 it lists latch kit as N/A.

So I haven't contacted Atwood, but looks like mine does not have a latch repair kit.

I'm giving some serious thought to NOT USING the tounge jack to set the bars as this puts the latch in the position of lifting the coupling/hitch/truck to set the bars, considering a bottle jack under the hitch head to lift and to not ask the latch to take this lift load. Comments folks?
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Old 03-08-2013, 07:10 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCinSC2 View Post
kry226,

OK, glad you found your repair kit very good. Now here's my Rest of the Story:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...d-91132-5.html

Look at post #58, the pdf is for atwood couplers and repair kits, mine is an 81912 THUMB LATCH and on page 2 it lists latch kit as N/A.

So I haven't contacted Atwood, but looks like mine does not have a latch repair kit.

I'm giving some serious thought to NOT USING the tounge jack to set the bars as this puts the latch in the position of lifting the coupling/hitch/truck to set the bars, considering a bottle jack under the hitch head to lift and to not ask the latch to take this lift load. Comments folks?
Ahh, yours is a slide out and requires a heavier rated hitch. Yours is rated at 13K while mine is at 10K. But that blows my mind that they don't make it serviceable.

As for your idea, I am not sure that the latch, when correctly done (unlike what I did) assumes much load. I'll continue to use the jack, albeit much more carefully.
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:47 AM   #20
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Got to the hitch this morning, and it was worse than I thought. It's a really simple, five minute job. Took some pics to share.

This part is called the shoe lock. I don't think it's supposed to look like that...






Complete. And for the moment, I don't really care that it doesn't match the Airstream gray. Once that moment passes, I'll paint it to reduce rusting. And to note, the edges of the latch handle were very sharp out of the package. I took a small file and smoothed them off.

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Old 03-09-2013, 12:31 PM   #21
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Very good. I might post a picture later of a thumb latch coupler, but it just has a thing on the top of the coupling that when seated on the ball, you just slide it forward and it locks.
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:52 PM   #22
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kry226

I may have missed it but what WD system are you using?
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:56 PM   #23
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Sir,

Reese Dual Cam 800#. Saving for a ProPride though.

Kyle
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:39 PM   #24
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kry226,
I'll be ordering the latch repair kit soon for the day when I run into the same problem. Thanks for the pictures and part numbers. Glad it all worked out for you!
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Old 03-09-2013, 08:47 PM   #25
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kry226,
I'll be ordering the latch repair kit soon for the day when I run into the same problem. Thanks for the pictures and part numbers. Glad it all worked out for you!
Thanks. The kit is so cheap, and the fix so easy, that it really makes sense keeping a spare in stock while on the road.
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