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Old 01-27-2004, 07:43 PM   #1
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Hitch Jack

Can anyone tell me how to get the cover off the top, so that I can try and replace stripped gears?

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Old 01-27-2004, 08:12 PM   #2
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What brand of tongue jack?

The main thing I know about them is that the gears are "timed", i.e. they are configured to a maximum up and down limit. I think the instructions for this are posted somewhere way back in the archives. My manual is 30 miles north, or I would tell you how.


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Old 01-27-2004, 08:21 PM   #3
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There are normally 2 or 3 hex set screws on the collar where it slides over the jack tube. The whole motor assembly comes off.
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato

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Old 01-27-2004, 08:26 PM   #4
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Tongue Jack

You may have over extended your jack. Raise the tongue up far enough to insert the inter shaft or if it is still in place, relieve all presure and gentlely push the intershaft up while the electric switch is on in the up position. You may have to fiddle with this a little, but it sounds as if this is your problem. Let me know how it works out.
Jim R.
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Old 01-28-2004, 06:20 AM   #5
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Been there

The up and down is controlled by a limit switch. switch has a gear that rides on the drive gear.

You can remove housing without removing whole motor. There are four screws in the bottom of housing. The screws go in from ground- up.

Careful when you remove housing. the gears can easily jump out of housing. The wires are typically tight. and are routed under the gears to the motor itself.

I have found broken solder joints from vibration.

When you get into motor, check wiring to switches,ascertain that your ground is good. If no movement in either direction, you have electrical problem, typically ground. If ground is good, you will be able to go in one direction or the other.

You can always run wire to battery via your wiring harness to tow vehicle.

as long as you dont touch grey wire, which is ground, you can check motor. The switch is a simple three position double throw switch. Cost about twenty dollars at Grainger.

Insure that motor is bad prior to removing motor, it is challenge to get motor back into housing with taught wiring. And if you really get inquisitive, and decide to take motor apart, watch for the brush springs taking off on you when you seperate shaft from field. (experience speaking here).

I have found that rarely a DC motor has gone bad. it is usually in the wiring and more often than not it is a ground problem.

The limit switch is a plastic arm that closes microswitch when extreme rotation is attained in either direction.

let me know if you need help in resetting limit switch.

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