Hitch Interference

Camp-Dog · 12-07-2004, 09:01 AM

I'm trying to figure out which WD hitch setup will best work on an '04 25 International. I've narrowed it down to Equalizer and Reese Straight-Line
WD/Sway control hitch setups. Based on the postings on the forum they
both seem to be an adequate solution. The question really comes down to which will fit best on the trailer. I've heard the propane tank cover can get in the way of some WD/sway setups. Does anyone know of any interference issues with either of these two solutions on an '04 25ft CCD ?

(not trying to start a "which is best debate"; just trying to find the best fit with little or no modifications to the battery box/tank covers)

bake315 · 12-07-2004, 10:09 AM

I have the Equalizer hitch, and it required a small amount of cutting of the propane tank cover - though I expect it (the cover) is a good bit different from yours.

**jcanavera** · 12-07-2004, 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coriolis1

I have the Equalizer hitch, and it required a small amount of cutting of the propane tank cover - though I expect it (the cover) is a good bit different from yours.

I have a 2004 Classic and the propane tank cover was well in front of the Equal-i-zer brackets. No interference at all. You will have to drill holes into the frame for the new Reese unit. Silvertwinkie put one on this 25' '04 Safari.

Jack

silverback · 12-07-2004, 10:04 PM

We transferred our Reese dual cam from our 03 22' CCD to our 04 25' CCD. Our dealer's technician did it (with me watching) and I don't recall that any drilling was involved. He did completely remove the propane tank bracket and cover and remount it to work with the hitch. No problems with either after several lengthy trips. I'll try to get some pictures (and verify that it wasn't drilled) by this weekend.
Ken

Soarhead · 12-08-2004, 05:16 AM

slightly off topic...

Jack,
Which model equal-i-zer do you have?
Thanks.

jimmickle · 12-08-2004, 05:26 AM

The new Reese dual cam should fit without any interference. It does requiring drilling holes in the frame to attach the dual cam brackets. Not a major problem. The older dual cam U bolts will require that you space the gas tank bracket up about 1/2 inch. A few washers between the bracket and frame does the job nicely. Should be no interference with the gas tank cover if you do this.

baldeagle · 12-08-2004, 06:02 AM

Last January we purchased a used 2002 31W. We are using the 1722B Equal-I-Zer.

I had to move the "L shaped" brackets slightly forward to permit opening of the battery boxes. (but still within the recommended distances 27 to 32 inches)

We tow around 12,000 miles a year and the Equal-I-Zer has worked just fine.

I previously use the Reese cam style but they made somewhat more noise than I cared for.

While I get an occasional "thud" from the Equal-I-Zer, for my taste, it is nothing like the creaking of the Reese.

Dave

Camp-Dog · 12-08-2004, 07:52 AM

Thanks for everybody's input about this topic. It sounds like either will work just fine. If I understand Jim correctly if I go with the DC setup I would want the newer design that doesn't utilize the U-brackets. Still getting the details worked out on the new rig but just want to be prepared since I'd much rather mail order the WD/sway kit ahead of time rather than purchase through the dealer.

Now I just need to decide which one to go with. I like the proven design of the Reese products, but the Eq seems good too. The only gripe I've been able to find about either one is the Reese is a bit more complicated (no big deal, but easy is always good) and the Eq tends to be a bit noisy. Then again the Reese can be too depending on who you ask...decisions, decisions.

I should be picking up the new 25 by the end of the month; this being the case there isn't much time for decisions about the hitch setup.

Thanks again for info!

**jcanavera** · 12-08-2004, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by silverback

We transferred our Reese dual cam from our 03 22' CCD to our 04 25' CCD. Our dealer's technician did it (with me watching) and I don't recall that any drilling was involved. He did completely remove the propane tank bracket and cover and remount it to work with the hitch. No problems with either after several lengthy trips. I'll try to get some pictures (and verify that it wasn't drilled) by this weekend.
Ken

The older dual-cam Reese hitches did not require any drilling. However the U-bolts did interfere with the gas bottle tray on some trailers. My Safari was one. Reese now provides a new model dual-cam that does require a hole to be drilled on each side of the A-Frame. This eliminates the need for the U-bolts which was the major problem. So if we are talking about the new model dual-cam Reese units, there are holes to drill.

Hope this keeps things straight.

Regards,

Jack

**jcanavera** · 12-08-2004, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Soarhead

slightly off topic...

Jack,
Which model equal-i-zer do you have?
Thanks.

I have a 2332B model which is rated to handle 1,400 lbs of hitch weight. My Classic comes in at about 1,175 lbs. Too much for my old Reese dual-cam.

Here is the web page for them.

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/home.html

Regards,

Jack

Silvertwinkie · 12-08-2004, 08:54 AM

I installed the Reese dual cam HP which is the bracketless version. True there was some drilling involved, but I took my time and didn't have to bend, re-route the LP gas line or remove the tanks. The cobalt drill bits made it simple and are worth their weight in gold.

I have no exp with anything other than Reese. To date, it's always met or exceeded my expectations. Coming from the friction sway, the dual cam is a REALLY good system.

Camp-Dog · 12-13-2004, 12:54 PM

OK, I'm about a week away from picking up the new AS. Now I need to get the shank which means I need to get one with the right amount of 'drop'. The problem is I seem to be getting conflicting info. From the ground to the top of the hitch receiver on the TV is 20 inches in my case. The 'hitch ball height' according the AS is 17.75".

Now for the mixed info, some say the 17.75 is measured from the ground to the bottom of the coupler and others say it is from the ground to the top of the coupler (where the top of the ball head would sit). As most know, a typical trailer ball is 3 inches tall. So do I go with a 2.25" drop, or a 5.25" drop on the shank?

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I can't seem to get a straight answer. When AS says 17.75" hich height, do they mean top of ball or bottom edge of coupler? Makes a difference on which shank size I get.

Thanks again for your insite !

thenewkid64 · 12-13-2004, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camp-Dog

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I can't seem to get a straight answer. When AS says 17.75" hitch height, do they mean top of ball or bottom edge of coupler?

Top of the ball. But the measurement is also sometimes a bit fuzzy. I have heard that it is the top of the ball "with" the TV loaded for a trip, others say just top of the ball, others say top of the ball with trailer attached.

If you start at the recommended height (+-) a half inch, you should be OK. Remember all of the heights are as new. If your trailer is older and has some axle sag, but not enough to make it necessary to replace then the ball should be lower to compensate.

The goal is to be hooked up to the TV with the trailer level front to rear and TV level front to rear. Where the hitch head has to sit in relation to the ground is based on many factors, so I say start as close to factory with the top of the ball as you can, and go form there. If you can get an adjustable drop bar, then you can move the head if need be based on the TV and trailer.

Camp-Dog · 12-13-2004, 01:22 PM

Wow, that was fast. Thanks newkid!

I ran into a similar situation a few years ago, it took a 4" drop bar to yield a 1" drop, seems the AS is no different.

Thanks again for the quick reply.