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Old 03-12-2013, 03:47 PM   #29
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Can you change the angle of the stinger and see how that effects the height?
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:37 PM   #30
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Steve,

When I changed to 16" tires, the tongue went down slightly, but not much. I was going to adjust the hitch, but three things changed my mind—I could detect no difference in towing and the front and rear trailer tires wore the same. I figured if the tires wore the same, the front and rear axles were happy. The 3rd thing was that it is a pain to adjust the hitch and I'd rather avoid it.

Andy's suggestion that air pressure under the trailer lifts the front slightly makes sense and maybe my trailer is perfectly level when I'm driving. I'll ask Barb to check it with a level next time we are going 60 mph.

Gene
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:03 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
Can you change the angle of the stinger and see how that effects the height?
Yes, I can change the angle of the stinger, but not something desirable to do with the ProPride as it will cause difficulties in some hitch/unhitch situations.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:18 PM   #32
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Steve,

When I changed to 16" tires, the tongue went down slightly, but not much. I was going to adjust the hitch, but three things changed my mind—I could detect no difference in towing and the front and rear trailer tires wore the same. I figured if the tires wore the same, the front and rear axles were happy. The 3rd thing was that it is a pain to adjust the hitch and I'd rather avoid it.

Andy's suggestion that air pressure under the trailer lifts the front slightly makes sense and maybe my trailer is perfectly level when I'm driving. I'll ask Barb to check it with a level next time we are going 60 mph.

Gene
Gene, Don't think the 16" tires/wheels have much to do with it because they were on the trailer with the GMC.

The adjustment on the ProPride is simply bar tention after the tow bar height and angle is set, so it's a simple matter to change, and try. It's the fact that one height is slightly too high, and the next one lower is slightly too low.

Sorry, I'm not buying the air under the trailer story because the air that goes under there is too turbulated after exiting from under the truck to make a significant difference. However, I will be anxiously awaiting Barb's report on the trailer's level at 60 MPH.
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:50 PM   #33
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Sorry, I'm not buying the air under the trailer story because the air that goes under there is too turbulated after exiting from under the truck to make a significant difference. However, I will be anxiously awaiting Barb's report on the trailer's level at 60 MPH.
As I think about it, if the front of the trailer rises, the back of the truck has to also. However, does the front of the truck rise when you drive? Does this mean that if you go fast enough, the whole thing will leave the ground? If you see a traffic jam up ahead, how fast do you have to drive to go over the traffic jam?

I haven't told Barb yet about the experiment. Sometimes she's really stubborn about my ideas.

Anyway, the slight dip in the tongue when I changed tires and wheels didn't appear to make a significant difference.

Gene
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:51 PM   #34
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i seem to remember 2air mentioning that the angle of the PP stinger can provide some 'in-between' height adjustment. you might want to send Sean an email and ask him.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:01 PM   #35
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With our new Dodge Ram truck and ProPride hitch, after proper weight distrubution adjustment, we end up with the trailer 1/2" low in the front, or if I raise the drawbar to the next level, the trailer is 3/4" high in the front.

Of the two, which would you choose and why?

Thanks in advance for your input.


What's the distribution onto the TT? With WDH applied, at the TT wheels, each-by-each, from scale values?

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Old 03-18-2013, 02:08 PM   #36
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What's the distribution onto the TT? With WDH applied, at the TT wheels, each-by-each, from scale values?

.
Bingo...

Scale tickets...is the only way to accurately validate WD set-up. Level with proper WD is the goal.

1/2" low with proper WD wouldn't bother me at all.

Bob
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:48 AM   #37
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Level Airstream after 16" wheel upgrade

When I recently went from 15" to 16" wheels I measured the airstream before and after the change. I started with the trailer level when hitched, and after the change the rear is now 1" higher than the front. So is that considered as 1/2" lower, since you would need to raise the front 1/2" to get the trailer back to level. I am confused trying to figure out if I should try to adjust the hitch, or if this is equal to the 1/2" lower people in this thread are saying is acceptable?

By the way, the front of the trailer didn't change height from this switch, just the rear, I guess because the axles are nearer the rear?

Looking forward to no more blowouts with these new michelins.

Thanks, Sandy
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:57 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Hiho Silver View Post
When I recently went from 15" to 16" wheels I measured the airstream before and after the change. I started with the trailer level when hitched, and after the change the rear is now 1" higher than the front. So is that considered as 1/2" lower, since you would need to raise the front 1/2" to get the trailer back to level. I am confused trying to figure out if I should try to adjust the hitch, or if this is equal to the 1/2" lower people in this thread are saying is acceptable?

By the way, the front of the trailer didn't change height from this switch, just the rear, I guess because the axles are nearer the rear?

Looking forward to no more blowouts with these new michelins.

Thanks, Sandy

Sandy,

See post #36, it all depends on CAT weights.

Bob
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:23 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hiho Silver View Post
When I recently went from 15" to 16" wheels I measured the airstream before and after the change. I started with the trailer level when hitched, and after the change the rear is now 1" higher than the front. So is that considered as 1/2" lower, since you would need to raise the front 1/2" to get the trailer back to level. I am confused trying to figure out if I should try to adjust the hitch, or if this is equal to the 1/2" lower people in this thread are saying is acceptable?

By the way, the front of the trailer didn't change height from this switch, just the rear, I guess because the axles are nearer the rear?

Looking forward to no more blowouts with these new michelins.

Thanks, Sandy
You are in the same dilemma as I. One position is too low in the front, and the next is too high.

Yes, weights are very important, especially retuning the unhitched weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle, but it is also important because of the type of suspension they use, to level the Airstream. If the trailer is significantly low in the front, the front axle is carrying more weight than the rear, and vice versa. I know it's not practical, but it would be nice to have a more fine height adjustment on the hitch.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #40
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Use the RMA TIRE SERVICE manual, Chapter Four on how to properly weigh an RV.

FALR (Front Axle Load Restoration) is the ballpark number for WD hitch adjustment. But individual tire/wheel loads tell a more complete story . . one must be able to separate the wheels on a tandem (or tridem) axle trailer to best determine what hitch adjustment gives the closest to "equal" loadings.

With the FA closest to the "laden; unitched" value due to WD adjustment, THEN use the wheel weight values to do any fine tuning.

It also allows one to best dial in TV tire pressures, as that vehicle is dependent on Load per wheel (and the heaviest wheel on any axle) to optimize tire pressures for that axle (and within vehicle manufacturer guidelines; the doorpost sticker).

"Nose up", or "nose down", is not acceptable for a torsion arm suspended trailer. And it is a poor crutch for any other type where a little more investigation and adjustment is called for.

I know it's not practical, but it would be nice to have a more fine height adjustment on the hitch

Is the problem we all run into.

Thus a stack of scale tickets reflecting various loadings over time. There will be a range -- upper and lower limits -- to a dedicated rig with the same owners. Changing the load in either vehicle can change this somewhat.

One can also cut & re-weld the stinger on this hitch type to optimize WD once all other avenues have been explored.

As my yardstick I want best possible braking performance. This is "the test" as I see it. I want neither trailer axle to "load up" as equal performance from all brakes is desirable.

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Old 04-11-2013, 11:03 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
You are in the same dilemma as I. One position is too low in the front, and the next is too high.

Yes, weights are very important, especially retuning the unhitched weight to the front axle of the tow vehicle, but it is also important because of the type of suspension they use, to level the Airstream. If the trailer is significantly low in the front, the front axle is carrying more weight than the rear, and vice versa. I know it's not practical, but it would be nice to have a more fine height adjustment on the hitch.
Steve, my trailer frame is now 16 1/2 inches from ground in front and 17 1/2 inches from ground in rear. Is that what you would call 1/2" lower in front?

Thanks, sandy
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:24 AM   #42
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Steve, my trailer frame is now 16 1/2 inches from ground in front and 17 1/2 inches from ground in rear. Is that what you would call 1/2" lower in front?

Thanks, sandy
Yes, to get the trailer perfectly level, you would have to raise the hitch 1/2" assuming you already have proper weight distribution. The problem is, most all hitch elevation adjustments go in about 1 1/2" increments.

I would double check that you have proper weight distribution with your setup as it currently is, and then if you do, you will probably just have to live with the thing as is. If your weight distribution is not right, then get that right, and re-measure your trailer for level.
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