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Old 08-07-2007, 02:27 PM   #29
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I did looked at mine after reading this thread - and it still looks great - could not find any cracks/rust etc. I live in NM so wondering if there are more failures in more moist areas.....plus the truck spends most of its time in the garage - I will watch it carefully though

Ken J.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:07 AM   #30
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Sorry this is a bit late, but I did get the truck back last week. The redesigned hitch that I saw was not installed, but oddly it does look a bit different from the original, but not in the area we've discussed. The entry to the hitch looks a bit meater, but the rest of the design is the same.

In addition, off topic, GM replaced all four 3/4 ton rims due to the same corroision I had/have on my Airstream rims. They also fixed the clunk, it was the leaf springs.
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:26 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Sorry this is a bit late, but I did get the truck back last week. The redesigned hitch that I saw was not installed, but oddly it does look a bit different from the original, but not in the area we've discussed. The entry to the hitch looks a bit meater, but the rest of the design is the same.

In addition, off topic, GM replaced all four 3/4 ton rims due to the same corroision I had/have on my Airstream rims. They also fixed the clunk, it was the leaf springs.
Wow! That's customer service!

I have to say, the Chevy dealer I am with now is pretty good also. Nothing but
maintenance
to date, but they have been very responsive.

Were those steel rims?

Bill
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:35 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Wow! That's customer service!

I have to say, the Chevy dealer I am with now is pretty good also. Nothing but
maintenance
to date, but they have been very responsive.

Were those steel rims?

Bill
That dealer has typically been pretty good. I too must say that outside of what I consider these small issues, this Chevy is the best one I have ever owned and it stops just as good as it takes off, unlike our 1985 Suburban.

The rims are the aluminum 3/4 ton type. I beleive they are polished aluminum and/or some type of alum alloy. They look somewhat shiney chrome, similar to the Airstream rims. You can see sort of what they look like here:

Suburban: SUVs: Chevrolet

I am going to keep an eye on this new hitch and will most likely replace it with a Reese since I doubt this hitch will not deform at the hitch pin like the old one did.
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:09 AM   #33
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Hmmm…not sure, that link shows a variety of rim styles…
It sounds like I may have the same on my truck though…what kind of corrosion did you see? Do you know what may have caused it?

As far as replacing the OEM hitch with a Reese, I am reasonably sure they are one and the same.
I have had Reese after market, and many GM OEM hitches, and they sure look the same to me. I could not find any marking on the OEM hitch, so I can’t prove it, but I doubt GM manufactures hitches, they just assemble them like all the other components…

Thanx, Bill
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:50 AM   #34
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Deformation of hitch

See the attached photo. This hitch is on a 2003 Silverado 2500. It has been used to tow a 25' Classic for perhaps 10,000 miles. Is this deformation of the hole a problem? The welds looks OK to the eye. The truck has been used mainly in the dry climate of New Mexico.

If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:38 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghatfield
See the attached photo. This hitch is on a 2003 Silverado 2500. It has been used to tow a 25' Classic for perhaps 10,000 miles. Is this deformation of the hole a problem? The welds looks OK to the eye. The truck has been used mainly in the dry climate of New Mexico.

If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George
I would expect some deformation of the hole on the receiver; the hitch pin is hardened, the receiver is not. (You would be hard-pressed to find any hole on your truck that is still perfectly round after driving it a few miles: vibration, vertical/horizantal loading). I would assume driving habits play a large role in this deformation, and possibly the reported hitch failures. Fast starts, hard stops, etc will of course, cause your trailer to place extreme loads on the final connection point (hitch pin). It is best, for many reasons, to "drive as if an egg was under your foot". I don't have a heavy foot, and go particularly easy when towing. I have towed tens of thousands of miles with both GM OEM hitches, and after-market hitches, and have never seen any deformation, or weld failures. Maybe I am just "lucky"?
I would keep an eye on the welds, as others have reported issues. I am not sure I would consider 4 reports to the NHTSA a crisis, but it won't hurt to check ALL hitch components, lug nuts, etc before any trip...

Bill
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Old 08-16-2007, 01:00 PM   #36
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Bill, I typically agree with you 110%, but when it comes to this issue, my exp has indicated otherwise in terms of the pin hole itself.

I towed both a 19' Bambi and a 25' Safari with my Impala SS that I saddled up with a Reese hitch. I towed around the same amount of miles (approx) with that setup as I have with my current TV, the 2004 3/4 ton Burb. I have zero deformation on the pin hole on my Reese hitch. The factory hitch started to deform at the pin hole after a few trips.

When I showed the elongation/deformation of the pin hole to the dealer, it wasn't even a discussion, with that alone, they replaced the hitch, never even getting into the recall of prior years or possible weld issues. Now was that dealer being customer focused and just making me happy? Maybe, but I still maintain that there was (can't say for certain on this newly installed factory hitch) a problem with this pin hole that I have not seen on other hitch systems I have used. The photo that George posted looks identical to what I had FWIW.
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Old 08-16-2007, 01:30 PM   #37
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Without seeing the hole before hand, and then after, it is hard to say? I have never examined the hole at the dealer when new, it is possible that it was formed out of round by the manufacturer (all manufacturing processes have variability “Cpk”), and when you checked you became aware of it, or maybe had a hard stop situation somewhere along the way that stressed the system. Don’t know for sure without having a before and after (as well as what happened along the way)!
I don’t doubt this has happened to you, and several others, but I am just not so sure I would be concerned about the hole being deformed. Weld failure would concern me. My other point would be that I believe you are replacing a Reese (supplied to GM) with a Reese (after market). So other than a nice round hole, I am not sure what is to be gained…
Let’s do a test. You have a nice new hitch (“round hole”) can you get a pin gauge and check the go/no go parameters? That would be cool. Then after 10k miles towing with this hitch, check it again and see if the hole has moved…

Again, I don’t doubt this deformation is happening, I just think it is not something to worry about…

Bill
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:03 PM   #38
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I think between the welds and the pin hole, clearly the welds are a much bigger deal. I can say that my hitch pin hole was as it is now, perfectly round and not mauled as the photo above pictures, as it use to be before the swap out.

I talked to a buddy of mine that does a lot of metal work and he suspects that it might be possible that the heat tempering that creates the strength may have not been done well or to a spec of that of say Reese that doesn't show these syptoms. Either way, I think that we all agree, regardless of what camp you happen to belong to on the list of issues with these hitches, is that these hitches aren't really all that great.
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:59 PM   #39
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Hi, I don't believe G.M. drilled an oval pin hole; And I don't believe a drilled hole would have flairs on them like one that was beaten or hammered into an oval shape. [as shown in the above picture] As noted before, early G.M. hitches were square and tough. The round tube G.M. hitches have proven to be junk. Has anyone bought a Reese replacement hitch that had a round tube on it like the original G.M. hitch?
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:19 AM   #40
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If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George[/quote]

Hi, George. All of my Ford factory hitches have been good. But I have only bought two after market hitches [in my long life] that I can highly recommend. Draw-Tite is very good and is the maker of U-Haul hitches. [same thing with different name on them] Usually you can get a better price from a Draw-tite dealer than from U-Haul. My other hitch was custom made and welded right to the frame of my 1959 Ford Galaxie; It was made by Williams Welding Company in Long Beach, California. This hitch will never break, crack, deform, or fall off. [they have to have the vehicle in their shop as all hitches are custom made on the vehicle]
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Old 08-17-2007, 07:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS
Has anyone bought a Reese replacement hitch that had a round tube on it like the original G.M. hitch?
Like the Draw-Tite shown here?; Drawtite-hitches.com: Find Your Hitch

Or the Reese and HH shown here?; Reese-Hitches.com: Find Your Hitch

And yes, drills do "walk", punches do "wear" resulting in out of round conditions...happens all the time.

Bill
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Old 08-17-2007, 07:45 AM   #42
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My dad had Reese, I used 2 Reese hitches and have had nothing but very great exp with Reese (non round pipe hitches). Dad used his for 15 years, I used my smaller Reese (class 2) for 7 years, transfered it to a different TV, used it for another 3 years, then sold it to a guy that is still using it. From there, moved to a big enough hitch to tow the Safari and used that for 2 years. Both of them did hold up better than my single GM OEM hitch. We'll see if this replacement OEM one fairs any better, but if not, I can tell you my next stop will be to a Reese installer!

I'm sure there are many other great brands other than Reese, but my exp has only been Reese and this OEM I have had issues with.
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