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Road Ruler · 07-27-2007, 06:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moosetags

Point is that the GM OEM receiver is not up to the job. If GM replaces it under warranty, you'll get the same junk.

Correct! The problem when using the receiver with a WDH is the flex. The flexing diminishes the ride, handling, and safety of the combination overall.

Most users have no idea all this is going on. The flexing eventually fatigue the metal and welds resulting in cracks, bending, etc. The point is the flexing is what users need to be concerned about and most are blind to the problem.

**moosetags** · 07-27-2007, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobkelly

The mileage of concern is that under tow and should be independent of truck total mileage. My weld cracking has occurred after several thousand miles of 5,000# GVW towing on two vehicles. The third vehicle tows a 7-8,000# GVW race car trailer and this hitch cracked to the point of having to be replaced before additional use. The main culprit here is the weight distribution feature that most of us use. The WD bar loads are converted to a corresponding moment at the hitch box. The attachment of the hitch box to the transverse tube is fine if the loading is strictly pushing or pulling. The load path at this juncture is poor for WD bar induced moments in the vertical direction or moments in the horizontal direction caused by sharp turns.

When selecting a replacement hitch, look for improved load path for these two cranking moments. If GM replaces your hitch under warranty, look for a revised design at the hitch box to transverse tube interface. If it appears to be the same hitch and part number, let them install it, but I'd consider later replacement with a beefier one before you trailer very much with this warranty replacement item.

Very well put.

Silvertwinkie · 07-27-2007, 11:55 AM

I thought (and I did see one) that the design change that was done where the metal plate was installed was put in there to reduce the flex. I was under the impression (as Bob pointed out in post #20) that if they swapped it out, I would get the modified hitch that the 2006s received. Are you all saying that the redesigned version also is lacking? If that's the case, then I'm Reese bound before next season. This is such a primary system, if the redesign is also junk, then I won't even waste my time on it when at the dealer.

bobkelly · 07-27-2007, 02:33 PM

Silvertwinkie----I don't have any experience with 2006 and newer GM hitches. I haven't looked at one either to see if it is redesigned. Hopefully, someone who has both models years in their driveway will chime in.

In my case, I went directly to another brand of hitch, so I don't know what a GM replacement hitch looks like.

Ken J · 07-27-2007, 06:14 PM

Well isnt' this interesting - when I first purchased my 2002 Avalanche I asked around (including this board) about the hitch because a round hitch didn't make sense to me, now several years this comes up - I don't think mine has any cracks, but i'm going to replace anyway....

Ken J.

Silvertwinkie · 08-07-2007, 12:48 PM

FWIW, the dealer replaced the hitch with a new one under warranty. I haven't got the truck back yet, but when I do, I'll let you all know if it's the revised version or the first gen stuff (which I had).

Ken J · 08-07-2007, 01:01 PM

Was yours a 2002 - mine is out of warranty.....

Silvertwinkie · 08-07-2007, 01:21 PM

My warranty ended this past Sunday. I have a 2004, but since I brought it in on Friday, the claim was made before the cutoff, so they replaced that, all 4 rims (corroded like my Airstream rims), fixed the leaf spring "clunk" and got me a new Chevy Bow Tie for the front as it was delaminating.

Personally, I agree, the GM hitch is not a great one, but since it was warranty, I wasn't gonna let GM off the hook, if this one starts the same as the old, I'll replace it with a Reese, but as of right this moment, unseen, I'm hoping it's the redesigned unit, if not, I won't pass go, and won't collect 200, I'll simply visit my Reese shop before next season starts. The Reese I saddled my Impala SS with looks as new as the day it was installed. No elongated pin holes, no weld issues, etc.

Ken J · 08-07-2007, 01:27 PM

I did looked at mine after reading this thread - and it still looks great - could not find any cracks/rust etc. I live in NM so wondering if there are more failures in more moist areas.....plus the truck spends most of its time in the garage - I will watch it carefully though

Ken J.

Silvertwinkie · 08-16-2007, 07:07 AM

Sorry this is a bit late, but I did get the truck back last week. The redesigned hitch that I saw was not installed, but oddly it does look a bit different from the original, but not in the area we've discussed. The entry to the hitch looks a bit meater, but the rest of the design is the same.

In addition, off topic, GM replaced all four 3/4 ton rims due to the same corroision I had/have on my Airstream rims. They also fixed the clunk, it was the leaf springs.

BillTex · 08-16-2007, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie

Sorry this is a bit late, but I did get the truck back last week. The redesigned hitch that I saw was not installed, but oddly it does look a bit different from the original, but not in the area we've discussed. The entry to the hitch looks a bit meater, but the rest of the design is the same.

In addition, off topic, GM replaced all four 3/4 ton rims due to the same corroision I had/have on my Airstream rims. They also fixed the clunk, it was the leaf springs.

Wow! That's customer service!

I have to say, the Chevy dealer I am with now is pretty good also. Nothing but
maintenance
to date, but they have been very responsive.

Were those steel rims?

Bill

Silvertwinkie · 08-16-2007, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillTex

Wow! That's customer service!

I have to say, the Chevy dealer I am with now is pretty good also. Nothing but
maintenance
to date, but they have been very responsive.

Were those steel rims?

Bill

That dealer has typically been pretty good. I too must say that outside of what I consider these small issues, this Chevy is the best one I have ever owned and it stops just as good as it takes off, unlike our 1985 Suburban.

The rims are the aluminum 3/4 ton type. I beleive they are polished aluminum and/or some type of alum alloy. They look somewhat shiney chrome, similar to the Airstream rims. You can see sort of what they look like here:

Suburban: SUVs: Chevrolet

I am going to keep an eye on this new hitch and will most likely replace it with a Reese since I doubt this hitch will not deform at the hitch pin like the old one did.

BillTex · 08-16-2007, 10:09 AM

Hmmm…not sure, that link shows a variety of rim styles…
It sounds like I may have the same on my truck though…what kind of corrosion did you see? Do you know what may have caused it?

As far as replacing the OEM hitch with a Reese, I am reasonably sure they are one and the same.
I have had Reese after market, and many GM OEM hitches, and they sure look the same to me. I could not find any marking on the OEM hitch, so I can’t prove it, but I doubt GM manufactures hitches, they just assemble them like all the other components…

Thanx, Bill

ghatfield · 08-16-2007, 10:50 AM

See the attached photo. This hitch is on a 2003 Silverado 2500. It has been used to tow a 25' Classic for perhaps 10,000 miles. Is this deformation of the hole a problem? The welds looks OK to the eye. The truck has been used mainly in the dry climate of New Mexico.

If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George

BillTex · 08-16-2007, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghatfield

See the attached photo. This hitch is on a 2003 Silverado 2500. It has been used to tow a 25' Classic for perhaps 10,000 miles. Is this deformation of the hole a problem? The welds looks OK to the eye. The truck has been used mainly in the dry climate of New Mexico.

If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George

I would expect some deformation of the hole on the receiver; the hitch pin is hardened, the receiver is not. (You would be hard-pressed to find any hole on your truck that is still perfectly round after driving it a few miles: vibration, vertical/horizantal loading). I would assume driving habits play a large role in this deformation, and possibly the reported hitch failures. Fast starts, hard stops, etc will of course, cause your trailer to place extreme loads on the final connection point (hitch pin). It is best, for many reasons, to "drive as if an egg was under your foot". I don't have a heavy foot, and go particularly easy when towing. I have towed tens of thousands of miles with both GM OEM hitches, and after-market hitches, and have never seen any deformation, or weld failures. Maybe I am just "lucky"?
I would keep an eye on the welds, as others have reported issues. I am not sure I would consider 4 reports to the NHTSA a crisis, but it won't hurt to check ALL hitch components, lug nuts, etc before any trip...

Bill

Silvertwinkie · 08-16-2007, 12:00 PM

Bill, I typically agree with you 110%, but when it comes to this issue, my exp has indicated otherwise in terms of the pin hole itself.

I towed both a 19' Bambi and a 25' Safari with my Impala SS that I saddled up with a Reese hitch. I towed around the same amount of miles (approx) with that setup as I have with my current TV, the 2004 3/4 ton Burb. I have zero deformation on the pin hole on my Reese hitch. The factory hitch started to deform at the pin hole after a few trips.

When I showed the elongation/deformation of the pin hole to the dealer, it wasn't even a discussion, with that alone, they replaced the hitch, never even getting into the recall of prior years or possible weld issues. Now was that dealer being customer focused and just making me happy? Maybe, but I still maintain that there was (can't say for certain on this newly installed factory hitch) a problem with this pin hole that I have not seen on other hitch systems I have used. The photo that George posted looks identical to what I had FWIW.

BillTex · 08-16-2007, 12:30 PM

Without seeing the hole before hand, and then after, it is hard to say? I have never examined the hole at the dealer when new, it is possible that it was formed out of round by the manufacturer (all manufacturing processes have variability “Cpk”), and when you checked you became aware of it, or maybe had a hard stop situation somewhere along the way that stressed the system. Don’t know for sure without having a before and after (as well as what happened along the way)!
I don’t doubt this has happened to you, and several others, but I am just not so sure I would be concerned about the hole being deformed. Weld failure would concern me. My other point would be that I believe you are replacing a Reese (supplied to GM) with a Reese (after market). So other than a nice round hole, I am not sure what is to be gained…
Let’s do a test. You have a nice new hitch (“round hole”) can you get a pin gauge and check the go/no go parameters? That would be cool. Then after 10k miles towing with this hitch, check it again and see if the hole has moved…

Again, I don’t doubt this deformation is happening, I just think it is not something to worry about…

Bill

Silvertwinkie · 08-16-2007, 01:03 PM

I think between the welds and the pin hole, clearly the welds are a much bigger deal. I can say that my hitch pin hole was as it is now, perfectly round and not mauled as the photo above pictures, as it use to be before the swap out.

I talked to a buddy of mine that does a lot of metal work and he suspects that it might be possible that the heat tempering that creates the strength may have not been done well or to a spec of that of say Reese that doesn't show these syptoms. Either way, I think that we all agree, regardless of what camp you happen to belong to on the list of issues with these hitches, is that these hitches aren't really all that great.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-16-2007, 10:59 PM

Hi, I don't believe G.M. drilled an oval pin hole; And I don't believe a drilled hole would have flairs on them like one that was beaten or hammered into an oval shape. [as shown in the above picture] As noted before, early G.M. hitches were square and tough. The round tube G.M. hitches have proven to be junk. Has anyone bought a Reese replacement hitch that had a round tube on it like the original G.M. hitch?

ROBERTSUNRUS · 08-16-2007, 11:19 PM

If I do get a new hitch, does anyone have any suggestions as to brand?

George[/quote]

Hi, George. All of my Ford factory hitches have been good. But I have only bought two after market hitches [in my long life] that I can highly recommend. Draw-Tite is very good and is the maker of U-Haul hitches. [same thing with different name on them] Usually you can get a better price from a Draw-tite dealer than from U-Haul. My other hitch was custom made and welded right to the frame of my 1959 Ford Galaxie; It was made by Williams Welding Company in Long Beach, California. This hitch will never break, crack, deform, or fall off. [they have to have the vehicle in their shop as all hitches are custom made on the vehicle]