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Old 07-26-2007, 06:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Fyrzowt
Those of you who have had problems with your hitch - At what mileage did you notice it, and if you can, give me some idea how much towing your vehicle has done.
Mine has had minimal towing, I inspected it today, the welds look like new still. The truck has 72K miles. I guess I'll be doing a periodic inspection.
Dave
I noticed the cracked welds in my OEM receiver at about 40,000 miles on my 2005 Suburban 2500. This TV had towed my 2005 25' Safari about 15,000 miles at that point. I use a Hensley hitch system with weight distribution bars. I tighten the bars sufficiently to level the tow vehicle which puts a lot of pressure on the receiver. The OEM receiver should be up to this, though. My TV also had Quadrasteer (4 wheel steering) which may put additional strains on the receiver. I guess GM thinks that nobody is really going to tow anything of substance for any distance. A Class III receiver just doesn't seem sufficient for any 3/4 ton truck.
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Old 07-26-2007, 06:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverCabin
I found this on the Good Sam website. It didn't look like it has been posted here before:
I believe it was posted here over a year ago. I was thinking June '06 right after the Midwest rally -- here it is: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...tch-23424.html

Another thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ems-31857.html
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Old 07-26-2007, 07:09 PM   #17
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I just took another look at mine just now and got a fairly good look at it.

So far, I can see a few bad welds, but nothing near what has been described here. That isn't to say it won't happen or that the hitch is not prone to these things. I did notice however that the hole where the pin goes through is deforming and it's deforming pretty darn good. I took a look at my Impala that has Reese hitch. That hitch towed the Safari about 2000 miles and then towed a Bambi an few thosand more. This is about the same amount of towing my 3/4 Burb has done, all with the 25' foot Safari. My point is that the Reese pin hole has NOT deformed in any way.

My standard warranty is running out in a few weeks. I think I may make a warranty visit for this, the delaminating front grill, alum wheel corrosion and a fairly loud clunking noise when I go over good bumps (sounds like some metal parts clunking together).

Also, what have you all done if you use a Reese draw bar in the GM supplied hitch. Mine has an awful lot of play in it and it was suggested to me that there is a part or a sleeve I can buy to limit the play due to the GM hitch being larger than the Reese draw bar.
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:10 PM   #18
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Point is that the GM OEM receiver is not up to the job. If GM replaces it under warranty, you'll get the same junk.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
Point is that the GM OEM receiver is not up to the job. If GM replaces it under warranty, you'll get the same junk.
Hi, that's exactly right. A friend and co-worker changed his because the 2" square hole was enlargeing and the pin hole was really hogged out. Chevrolet dealer would only replace it with the same thing. I don't know the years and models, but if the cross tube is round, Get rid of it!!!!!
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:54 PM   #20
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The mileage of concern is that under tow and should be independent of truck total mileage. My weld cracking has occurred after several thousand miles of 5,000# GVW towing on two vehicles. The third vehicle tows a 7-8,000# GVW race car trailer and this hitch cracked to the point of having to be replaced before additional use. The main culprit here is the weight distribution feature that most of us use. The WD bar loads are converted to a corresponding moment at the hitch box. The attachment of the hitch box to the transverse tube is fine if the loading is strictly pushing or pulling. The load path at this juncture is poor for WD bar induced moments in the vertical direction or moments in the horizontal direction caused by sharp turns.

When selecting a replacement hitch, look for improved load path for these two cranking moments. If GM replaces your hitch under warranty, look for a revised design at the hitch box to transverse tube interface. If it appears to be the same hitch and part number, let them install it, but I'd consider later replacement with a beefier one before you trailer very much with this warranty replacement item.
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:19 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
Point is that the GM OEM receiver is not up to the job. If GM replaces it under warranty, you'll get the same junk.
Correct! The problem when using the receiver with a WDH is the flex. The flexing diminishes the ride, handling, and safety of the combination overall.

Most users have no idea all this is going on. The flexing eventually fatigue the metal and welds resulting in cracks, bending, etc. The point is the flexing is what users need to be concerned about and most are blind to the problem.
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Old 07-27-2007, 12:51 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkelly
The mileage of concern is that under tow and should be independent of truck total mileage. My weld cracking has occurred after several thousand miles of 5,000# GVW towing on two vehicles. The third vehicle tows a 7-8,000# GVW race car trailer and this hitch cracked to the point of having to be replaced before additional use. The main culprit here is the weight distribution feature that most of us use. The WD bar loads are converted to a corresponding moment at the hitch box. The attachment of the hitch box to the transverse tube is fine if the loading is strictly pushing or pulling. The load path at this juncture is poor for WD bar induced moments in the vertical direction or moments in the horizontal direction caused by sharp turns.

When selecting a replacement hitch, look for improved load path for these two cranking moments. If GM replaces your hitch under warranty, look for a revised design at the hitch box to transverse tube interface. If it appears to be the same hitch and part number, let them install it, but I'd consider later replacement with a beefier one before you trailer very much with this warranty replacement item.
Very well put.
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Old 07-27-2007, 12:55 PM   #23
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I thought (and I did see one) that the design change that was done where the metal plate was installed was put in there to reduce the flex. I was under the impression (as Bob pointed out in post #20) that if they swapped it out, I would get the modified hitch that the 2006s received. Are you all saying that the redesigned version also is lacking? If that's the case, then I'm Reese bound before next season. This is such a primary system, if the redesign is also junk, then I won't even waste my time on it when at the dealer.
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Old 07-27-2007, 03:33 PM   #24
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Silvertwinkie----I don't have any experience with 2006 and newer GM hitches. I haven't looked at one either to see if it is redesigned. Hopefully, someone who has both models years in their driveway will chime in.

In my case, I went directly to another brand of hitch, so I don't know what a GM replacement hitch looks like.
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Old 07-27-2007, 07:14 PM   #25
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Well isnt' this interesting - when I first purchased my 2002 Avalanche I asked around (including this board) about the hitch because a round hitch didn't make sense to me, now several years this comes up - I don't think mine has any cracks, but i'm going to replace anyway....

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Old 08-07-2007, 01:48 PM   #26
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FWIW, the dealer replaced the hitch with a new one under warranty. I haven't got the truck back yet, but when I do, I'll let you all know if it's the revised version or the first gen stuff (which I had).
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:01 PM   #27
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Was yours a 2002 - mine is out of warranty.....
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Old 08-07-2007, 02:21 PM   #28
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My warranty ended this past Sunday. I have a 2004, but since I brought it in on Friday, the claim was made before the cutoff, so they replaced that, all 4 rims (corroded like my Airstream rims), fixed the leaf spring "clunk" and got me a new Chevy Bow Tie for the front as it was delaminating.

Personally, I agree, the GM hitch is not a great one, but since it was warranty, I wasn't gonna let GM off the hook, if this one starts the same as the old, I'll replace it with a Reese, but as of right this moment, unseen, I'm hoping it's the redesigned unit, if not, I won't pass go, and won't collect 200, I'll simply visit my Reese shop before next season starts. The Reese I saddled my Impala SS with looks as new as the day it was installed. No elongated pin holes, no weld issues, etc.
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