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Old 08-10-2009, 05:40 PM   #1
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Hitch Extension????

Hi Everyone,

I have a '98 Safari (25) that I pull behind my f250 diesel. On my first outing (the trailer was purchased this year), I discovered that I can not fully open the tailgate due to it's hitting the electric jack.

Is anyone aware of a hitch extension that can safely push the hitch back a foot or so. My receiver is a Super Hitch, and is build with two ports, an upper and lower. I have a 3 foot extension that I use when the camper is on and pulling the boat, but this will only handle about 400 pounds of tongue weight.

I am extremely hesitant to do anything with the AS unless I know it is safe!!!

Thanks in advance for the wealth of knowledge that I suspect will be forthcoming!

Steve
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #2
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Moment Arm.....

Adding an extension will create a moment arm that shifts the tongue weight back upsetting the the TV handling. Even if you could find one capable of meeting the weight capacity (which I don't think you could) the un-desireable effects of the extension would make your tow combination un-managable. The goal is to keep the hitch point close to the rear of the TV as possible.

If it's any consolation...My tailgates won't open either when we hitch up.

Regards,

Kevin
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #3
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Not sure if it would be long enough but most brand hitches make solid hitch bars up to 16" , which would be better than an extention . I have a 12" and on my chevy the tailgate opens all the way. Good luck
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:48 PM   #4
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Get a Hensley Hitch, that should do it.
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:25 PM   #5
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Ford F250 custom cutaway tailgate

Consider this?
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:34 PM   #6
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tailgate

Hi Bob,

Unfortunately, that defeats the use and "security" of my pickup canopy.

Thanks for the thought!

Steve
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Old 08-10-2009, 07:55 PM   #7
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Steve
I have the same problem. I can't open my tailgate when hooked up either and I have a manual jack. I was able to open it when I used a 4" drop when I had bad trailer axles and needed the drop to make the trailer level. Now with the new axles and gaining that 4" in rear height I didn't need the drop anymore. It gained me enought length to open the tailgate.
OH WELL I just suck it up and open after dropping the trailer.
Roger
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Old 08-10-2009, 08:59 PM   #8
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Reese Titan Class 5

I used the 2 1/2 inch receiver (reese titan) with the stinger bar to tow my jeep trailer when the camper was on the truck. That combo weighed in about 4k with the minimum tongue weight necessary. There was no noticeable sway but would never consider it with the airstream.
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:17 PM   #9
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The Superhitch truss you have will work fine if you have a weight distributing hitch. If you want a shorter one, they are available.
The 36" model is good for 1200 lbs tongue weight/ 12000 lbs total weight with a weight distributing hitch. Without the weight distributing hitch you are good to 650/6500.

SuperTruss :: Hitch Extension from Torklift
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Old 09-05-2009, 06:27 PM   #10
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I've thought about it myself. I just resigned to the fact that I have to unhook to open my tailgate.
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Old 09-05-2009, 07:01 PM   #11
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Some people have been remounting their electric jack at 90 degrees to the trailer and that gains them enough room to open the tailgate. I like the idea of keeping the ball as close to the back bumper as possible to minimize the lever arm and help with lateral stability. The w/d bars will solve the problem of weight shift but not improve lateral stability. See just how far you need to move to clear the jack once you have remounted it and buy a hitch extension which will just give you enough room. A 250 should be able to handle a 25 footer even with an extension, if you are using a self centering hitch.
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:27 PM   #12
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I'm curious. Are you using a weight distributing hitch of some sort or simply "deadload" hitching??? The reason I ask is that the Reese weight distributing hitch extends a fair distance back in its shortest configuration - and it can even be extended further back by using the second provided pin hole (---although suffering a capacity penalty.) I have plenty of clearance for the tailgate on my 3500 GMC dually. Perhaps the Ford tailgate is taller.
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Old 09-07-2009, 12:27 PM   #13
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Hitch

I am using a weight distribution hitch. It came with the trailer when I purchased it, and I am not sure who the Mfr is. I probably need an additional 10 inches to let the tailgate clear the jack.

Thanks, I will check out the Reese.

Steve
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:58 PM   #14
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My God man! Don't even think about anything resembling an extension..... or we'll be seeing a video of you on tv.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:15 PM   #15
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As mentioned above, with a Hensley hitch the ball connection is about one foot farther away from the tow vehicle. And the hitch prevents sway. I tow with a full size Ford van and can easily open my rear doors when hooked up. Also I can turn the van about 165 degrees left or right and there is no conflict between tow vehicle and trailer.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:51 PM   #16
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My experience tells me an extension won't hurt and probably will help trailer tracking and handling. An extension will also give you a tighter turning radius. I am basing this on my Air Safe hitch which is basically a hitch extension with an air bag which sets the WD hitch back about 14". My WD hitch is mounted to the back of the Air Safe. It handles much better than with the WD mounted right on the draw bar. Draw Bar extensions are manufactured by most hitch manufacturers
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:28 PM   #17
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Interesting! I used an F-250 Super Duty (1999) and a Reese weight distribution hitch to tow a 1978 31' Land Yacht with an electric jack. The tailgate opened with the trailer hooked up. Maybe the Reese is the answer.
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