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Old 07-14-2013, 08:41 AM   #141
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But can this system easily expand to allow another camera for rear of trailer ?
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:13 AM   #142
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Rear view cameras are pretty slick for hitching up. If you don't have it, twenty bucks will give you another slick system:

Two-Balls-and-Sticks Hitch Aligner Reese Hitch Accessories 53410

There are many versions of this, available everywhere.

doug k
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:16 AM   #143
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Could use a bathroom mirror with suction cup base too. But that's just my Harley lineage talking
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:30 AM   #144
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I know of no Dodge option to support another camera other than the factory one in the tailgate. However, I believe I read on one of the Dodge forums about a hack to get a third party video input to work on the factory screen.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:11 PM   #145
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wife did a great job in helping me hitch up ill have to re-hitch up next time at a much different angle where I keep my AS in backyard...so time will tell if repeat performance will be as easy.

My problem now that I will work out soon is properly adjusting the brake controller...I had not researched how to do this myself and hoped the folks at the dealer would be highly competent at it...it was the first time that the service gentlemen (a younger and nice guy) had adjusted a brake controller on a combo with the PP hitch...I explained "the bump"...he twiddled with the controller...first it was set to "3".....he went around the block trying the brakes, and settled on "3.5"...I got out of the truck and ahead of him, and ask him to break hard at slow speed as passing me so I could watch the hitch in real time....and "the bump" ensued....the hitch/TT shifted laterally at the low speed in the last moments of slowing down sharply...he seemed not interested or aware of this, and I opted to not make a stink about it (perhaps I should have, I really should have in retro) and figure it out on my own...I have to order a manual for my TV (it will not cost me, carmax pays for it) and learn about the controller on my 2010 ram 2500 diesel stock controller and fiddle with it..

I tried to fiddle more with on my trip and my wife was getting annoyed by my attempts and getting car sick...it did not bump unless I really laid down on it at slow speeds...it did not bump all the way home...but I prefer it not to bump or shift at all....I just need to figure out the controller...

Any advice there?

Otherwise, oh my the ride was great...watched the trailer in my rear view often, in particular when crossing bridges or being passed by a big truck...I saw no swaying so far and felt no swaying...stayed glued behind me very nicely.

Dealer initially had chains routed AROUND the WD bars...I quickly pointed out that and corrected...whew...

Turning around in the culdesac ended up no problem in front of my house, but it did bring the angle pretty sharp and made me nervous about exceeding the turning radius...went fine though...

Backing into my backyard spot is a tad of a drama for another soon to be thread...no problems or accidents..just some good ol' annoyance with unwanted "help"...more later

photo 2-1.JPG: Photo by Photographer Ellery Curtis - photo.net
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:29 PM   #146
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The controller should be simple to operate. If I recall the 2010 truck should have some + - buttons. The plus button will make the brakes more aggressive. You will have to fine tune this for the next few trips until the trailer brakes start to get broken in. After a few trips you may want to readjust the trailer brakes (you may have self adjusting brakes on the trailer). Moisture in the trailer brakes may make them seem grabby for the first few stops.
You can sign up on the Dodge owners website and download the owners manual.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:35 PM   #147
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Thanks - i did find the + and - and wondered if that was all it was to it - I'll fiddle with it next time I am out
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Old 11-19-2013, 07:02 AM   #148
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Also, brakes have to "break in". Several good heat and cooling cycles will transfer brake material to the brake drum/disc. This is crucial to the brakes working well.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:49 AM   #149
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Had no idea - thanks!
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:20 AM   #150
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The brakes had the tow from the factory to the dealership to set the brakes. I would imagine these delivery guys drive as fast as possible to increase the number of trips they can make a year.

I had towed our trailer maybe 1,000 miles and had the dealership do an annual checkup up on the unit. When new, it was towed to Los Angeles from Jackson Center and then by me to Phoenix and a little first trip. Total miles were probably under 4,000. The brakes were worn 10%.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:47 AM   #151
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A couple things - first, when the brakes are cold, they often won't stop as well, so be sure you adjust them after they're warm.

Second, you want the trailer and truck to stop in harmony. As you drive it, you'll start to feel whether it's pushing or pulling against the truck. A pulling sensation is easy to simulate by lightly activating the trailer brakes manually. Pushing you've already noticed gives you that bump.

I know that's not really clear advice, but it really is the best advice I was given.

Second, I don't recall what my Ford owner's manual says, but the Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller I had before said (something like) you wanted the brakes adjusted just shy of where they'd lock up in a panic stop (using manual activation) at 30 mph, after they were warmed up as I said above. Locked up trailer brakes are a bad thing, so make sure that's not the case. This method can help you get at least an upper bound.
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Old 11-21-2013, 08:59 PM   #152
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Thanks - ill keep that in mind for sure!
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Old 11-22-2013, 08:55 AM   #153
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I was told that 25' and longer Airstreams are all towed to the dealerships by my Classic dealer. The 25FB selling dealer told me our 25' was trucked and 27 and longer were towed.

It is about 1,850 miles from Jackson Center to Phoenix via interstates.

Regardless, the 31's get towed, so the brakes are worn in, except maybe for the dealership in Ohio.
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Old 11-22-2013, 09:26 AM   #154
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I occasionally see sob's headed to the dealers that way- a flatbed truck with a trailer (or 2) on the flatbed and towing another- probably still gets 10 mpg pulling 2 or 3 trailers- I see U-Hauls moved this way as well- and utility trailers-
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