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Old 08-15-2004, 01:44 PM   #15
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I'm running a '99 Burb 2500 4WD, w/ 265 tires and had to go buy a greater drop bar for it. Think I had a R54970 which worked fine for the 1/2 ton.

Mine is most like the Reese 54917 but looks like the Draw-Tite 3213. It still was $110 locally (and glad to find it).

Truck has 21" from top of receiver to ground, and the shank drop measures 10 3/4" with the drop to ball height at 6" in the lowest holes.

I still am a little high on the front end, but not by much < 1".

The control with the 3/4 ton is much better that the 1/2 ton and shorter w/b.
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:11 AM   #16
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Where to you measure hitch ball height? Is it from the ground to the top of the ball or another measurement? I am kinda new at this.
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Old 09-22-2004, 08:21 AM   #17
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Hitch bar drop size for 3/4 ton trucks

Greetings Jerry!

Welcome to the Forums!

Quote:
Originally Posted by seamusthegray
Where to you measure hitch ball height? Is it from the ground to the top of the ball or another measurement? I am kinda new at this.
Hitch height is measured with the tow vehicle on level ground (preferrably a solid surface such as an asphalt or concrete pad, measure from the ground to the top of the ball - - at least that is the method that I was taught when learning to properly adjust my hitch several years ago.

Kevin
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:25 AM   #18
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Yea, yea John...I got me a new toy!

Just as a follow up, I found that the 54970 hitch bar still works for the 3/4 Suburban, in just a different config than was the case with the Impala SS.

I did notice however, that the weight bars do not appear to be half as hard to take on or off with the truck, which was not the case with the Impala SS. I would have to jack up the connection to take them off or put them on.

Now, if I jack up the connection with the truck, I find I can actually snap the bars on by hand. Of course when I lower it back down I can't do it by hand, but either way with the Impala, I'd need the bar to put on and take off.

Additionally, I measured the amount of travel on the rear of the truck when I placed the raw hitch weight on the Suburban. It dipped only 2 inches. What's more, when I placed the bars on, I only needed 2 links and if I went 3 the coach would be slightly high.

Maybe a longer hitch bar with a lower ball might produce a better bar tension?

Any thoughts or comments?
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:41 AM   #19
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Wink Thanks!

Kevin,

Thanks for the advice re the hitch ball height. The fellow I bought the trailer told me that but I wanted to be sure. Sure seems low to the ground.





Hitch height is measured with the tow vehicle on level ground (preferrably a solid surface such as an asphalt or concrete pad, measure from the ground to the top of the ball - - at least that is the method that I was taught when learning to properly adjust my hitch several years ago.

Kevin[/QUOTE]
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Old 09-22-2004, 01:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Yea, yea John...I got me a new toy!

Just as a follow up, I found that the 54970 hitch bar still works for the 3/4 Suburban, in just a different config than was the case with the Impala SS.

I did notice however, that the weight bars do not appear to be half as hard to take on or off with the truck, which was not the case with the Impala SS. I would have to jack up the connection to take them off or put them on.

Now, if I jack up the connection with the truck, I find I can actually snap the bars on by hand. Of course when I lower it back down I can't do it by hand, but either way with the Impala, I'd need the bar to put on and take off.

Additionally, I measured the amount of travel on the rear of the truck when I placed the raw hitch weight on the Suburban. It dipped only 2 inches. What's more, when I placed the bars on, I only needed 2 links and if I went 3 the coach would be slightly high.

Maybe a longer hitch bar with a lower ball might produce a better bar tension?

Any thoughts or comments?
Are you using a Dual cam?

If so you need to go down to the 550lb bars so that you can get the required amount of flex to make the DC work properly. In a paniic sop where the tow vehcile nose dives and the rear comes up it will unload your current bars and the DC will become inefective. As Andy says...you are "over hitched".

The 550 have to be flexed more then the bars you have so you keep more pressure on the cams if the ball is higher then normal. On the SS it needed more tension to overcome it's softer suspension so you needed those stonger bars.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:37 PM   #21
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Gotcha. Thanks Toaster.
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