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03-15-2008, 07:28 AM
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#21
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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I tried before, and can not find an after market hitch for my 2007 Suburban. I appears that the hitch actually doubles as the rear most cross member of the frame. I don't remember if it is bolted or welded, but it is also very high up, just under the cargo floor. It exits through the bumper cover, not underneath it. None of the usual suspects carry a replacement, and the 2007-later Suburban doesn't show up on the list of replacement hitches. My local welding shop has no listings either. (Yet)
The hitch is rated to 10000lbs, with a 1000lb tongue weight ( with weight distribution).
I tow 5200lbs, with 600lbs tongue weight ( Overlander) or 3000lbs with 300lbs tongue weight ( Flying Cloud)
I can see the side to side movement of the trailer tongue through my rear view mirror. I can not feel it while towing. It was unnerving at first, but now I am used to it. What I can't get used to is the idea that GM would make such a loose fitting trailer hitch.
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03-15-2008, 08:03 AM
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#22
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Exactly
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Every late model GM receiver that comes in with a head in it, is ridiculously loose. Best thing is to take the Burb to a hitch/trailer place, and have them fit a good new receiver in place.
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There are quite a few threads on the concerns with the GM recievers,
bending and cracked welds. IMHO, replace the oem reciever.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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03-15-2008, 08:25 AM
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#23
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
.
, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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I have the same issue with a loose fitting OEM GM hitch. From what I was told, the issue is more pronounced with the non-fully square hitch bars. For example I have a Reese hitch bar that looks like photo #1 (left) below. It has some manufac indentations along the side of the bar.
It's been suggested that if you have a solid square hitch bar like in photo #2(right), the slack in the GM OEM hitch is nearly non-existent.
It was told to me that the hitch bar in the right photo is slightly wider and is what GM's OEM hitch provider built the hitch specs from.
Anyone confirm or find this is not the case?
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03-15-2008, 08:32 AM
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#24
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
I have the same issue. From what I was told, the issue is more pronounced with the non-fully square hitch bars. For example I have a Reese hitch bar that looks like photo #1 (left) below. It has some manufac indentations along the side of the bar.
It's been suggested that if you have a solid square hitch bar like in photo #2(right), the slack in the GM OEM hitch is nearly non-existent.
Anyone confirm or find this is not the case?
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I can confirm that that's not the case. My drop shank is like #2 in your photo, only it has a deeper drop. It is perfectly square. I now wonder if the bar stock on the drop shank is properly sized.
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03-15-2008, 08:43 AM
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#25
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Aluminut
2004 25' Safari
.
, Illinois
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,477
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Thanks Uwe.
Then the simple answer that seems to be correct, is that we need to replace the GM OEM hitch if we want this to go away.
I had installed a Reese receiver hitch on my Impala SS back when I first got the Bambi. My hitch bar (left picture) did fit and still does fit snug in that receiver.
Same hitch bar inserted into my Suburban's OEM hitch has play.
I did happen to look at a new 3/4 ton Suburban (post 2006 model) a few days ago...it appears GM has gone back to the receiver area not being outside the rest of the hitch as found in our gen OEM hitches.
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03-15-2008, 08:54 AM
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#26
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Rivet Master
1951 21' Flying Cloud
1960 24' Tradewind
West Coast
, BC
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,790
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You may want to consider having a qualified hitch welder replace the receiver of the TV. These folks often have to build hitches from scratch or modify them and should have the receiver in stock.
Just a thought but it's what I'd be doing if I had this problem.
Barry
__________________
Barry & Donna
Life is short - so is the door on a '51 Flying Cloud (ouch)
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03-15-2008, 09:03 AM
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#27
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Thanks Uwe.
Then the simple answer that seems to be correct, is that we need to replace the GM OEM hitch if we want this to go away.
I had installed a Reese receiver hitch on my Impala SS back when I first got the Bambi. My hitch bar (left picture) did fit and still does fit snug in that receiver.
Same hitch bar inserted into my Suburban's OEM hitch has play.
I did happen to look at a new 3/4 ton Suburban (post 2006 model) a few days ago...it appears GM has gone back to the receiver area not being outside the rest of the hitch as found in our gen OEM hitches.
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It's a bit of a bummer. The Suburban tows really nice, but what where they thinking when they put on this strangely sized receiver?
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03-15-2008, 09:05 AM
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#28
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by safari57
You may want to consider having a qualified hitch welder replace the receiver of the TV. These folks often have to build hitches from scratch or modify them and should have the receiver in stock.
Just a thought but it's what I'd be doing if I had this problem.
Barry
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That might be the solution. It urks me to have to screw around with a brand new vehicle, but that's the way it goes, I guess.
I am going to take a fw pictures of it today, time permitting, and post them later on.
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03-15-2008, 09:08 AM
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#29
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Excella 500
Venice
, California
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,067
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If you have room, you can have a nut welded onto the receiver tube and use a bolt to jam the hitch bar once it is inplace. This wont affect the integrity of the hitch.
__________________
"Not all who are laundering are washed" say Bill & Heidi
'78 Excella 500,"The Silver Pullit". vacuum over hydraulic disc brakes, center bath, rear twin. '67 Travelall 1200 B 4X4 WBCCI 3737
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03-15-2008, 04:11 PM
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#30
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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Just wondering here....what if you replaced the hitch pin with a 5/8" grade 8 bolt and lock nut, and torqued it down tight when you installed the hitch. I realize it would be an additional step in hooking up, but I'd bet it would eliminate any movement, side to side anyway, of the hitch in the reciever.
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05-06-2008, 12:54 PM
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#31
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Rivet Master
1992 34' Limited
Falls Church
, Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 945
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My tale of woe....
Hello all -
Here is my little addition to the reciever tube "slop" saga....
Had an OEM hitch (the kind that has had numerous failures) on my 01 2500 Burb, and since I have a BIG AS I figured safe is better than sorry....
Had a Curt Class V installed. Happy as a pig in slop....until....
Went to put the bike rack in so I could take the kids bikes to a LL game and the rack/bikes wobbled like English Pub Crawlers at 3am (not that I have ANYTHING against the english, OR pub crawlers!). NOT OK!!!!
Checked all the other recievers in the Curt and they all wobble just as bad. EVERY SINGLE ONE WAS AOK in the OEM. This is not because of a loose pin as I tried 3 different ones.
Likely the worst was the Equalizer hitch head. Side to side (1/2 inch) + up and down (3/8 inch) wobble. That has to play havoc with the WD properties, or?? It can't be good regardless.
Called the install/dealer location, and their answer was that all the recievers are now made in China and that they all have lousy fit quality. They suggested I use 'cardboard' to firm up the connection. Thinking that I will go back and tell they to take the 'new' off and put the old back on.
Is this a Curt problem, industry wide, what???
Saw a few comments about 'shims', another about a bead of weld, etc.... Is this really the best that I can expect?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Axel
SilverToy
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05-06-2008, 03:46 PM
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#32
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Hitch Woes
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
Hello all -
Here is my little addition to the receiver tube "slop" saga....
Had an OEM hitch (the kind that has had numerous failures) on my 01 2500 Burb, and since I have a BIG AS I figured safe is better than sorry....
Had a Curt Class V installed. Happy as a pig in slop....until....
Went to put the bike rack in so I could take the kids bikes to a LL game and the rack/bikes wobbled like English Pub Crawlers at 3am (not that I have ANYTHING against the English, OR pub crawlers!). NOT OK!!!!
Checked all the other receivers in the Curt and they all wobble just as bad. EVERY SINGLE ONE WAS AOK in the OEM. This is not because of a loose pin as I tried 3 different ones.
Likely the worst was the Equalizer hitch head. Side to side (1/2 inch) + up and down (3/8 inch) wobble. That has to play havoc with the WD properties, or?? It can't be good regardless.
Called the install/dealer location, and their answer was that all the receivers are now made in China and that they all have lousy fit quality. They suggested I use 'cardboard' to firm up the connection. Thinking that I will go back and tell they to take the 'new' off and put the old back on.
Is this a Curt problem, industry wide, what???
Saw a few comments about 'shims', another about a bead of weld, etc.... Is this really the best that I can expect?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Axel
SilverToy
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I know of what you speak. FWIW This was my solution to the OEM
receiver problem. Replaced it with a Reese class V. Had the 2" sleeve welded
in, then the whole thing was re-powder coated. Both my original
Reese head and the HAHA head fit perfectly. Are you sure you don't have
a 2 1/2" opening on your new receiver?
I think you can tell from the photos why I replaced the OEM unit.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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05-06-2008, 03:52 PM
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#33
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Rivet Master
Elgin
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
Hello all -
Here is my little addition to the reciever tube "slop" saga....
Had an OEM hitch (the kind that has had numerous failures) on my 01 2500 Burb, and since I have a BIG AS I figured safe is better than sorry....
Had a Curt Class V installed. Happy as a pig in slop....until....
Went to put the bike rack in so I could take the kids bikes to a LL game and the rack/bikes wobbled like English Pub Crawlers at 3am (not that I have ANYTHING against the english, OR pub crawlers!). NOT OK!!!!
Checked all the other recievers in the Curt and they all wobble just as bad. EVERY SINGLE ONE WAS AOK in the OEM. This is not because of a loose pin as I tried 3 different ones.
Likely the worst was the Equalizer hitch head. Side to side (1/2 inch) + up and down (3/8 inch) wobble. That has to play havoc with the WD properties, or?? It can't be good regardless.
Called the install/dealer location, and their answer was that all the recievers are now made in China and that they all have lousy fit quality. They suggested I use 'cardboard' to firm up the connection. Thinking that I will go back and tell they to take the 'new' off and put the old back on.
Is this a Curt problem, industry wide, what???
Saw a few comments about 'shims', another about a bead of weld, etc.... Is this really the best that I can expect?
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Axel
SilverToy
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Cardboard?! You're kidding!
Anyone that tells you that cardboard is going to fix an issue that has to do with towing anything - let alone a 34' travel trailer - is a taco or two shy of a combination plate, I'm thinking. I'd be cutting my losses and seeking a different dealer and a different hitch manufacturer.
__________________
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05-06-2008, 07:09 PM
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#34
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Winston Salem
, North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 524
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"Called the install/dealer location, and their answer was that all the recievers are now made in China and that they all have lousy fit quality."
Dont' tell me the rv industry suffers from the made in China blues too.
I am suprised some business has not start building RV's in Mexico.
__________________
Greg
Winston Salem, NC
WBCCI 5218,
Corresponding Secretary Piedmont NC Unit 161,
1967 Overlander International.
1979 Avion 30ft rear bath
TV's 88 Chevy Suburban 454, 3:42, TH400
95 Cadillac FW Brougham, LT1,3:42, 7k tow pk.
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05-06-2008, 07:44 PM
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#35
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3 Rivet Member
1973 25' Tradewind
Romulus
, New York
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 139
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class V
2 1/2 " receiver size?
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05-06-2008, 07:47 PM
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#36
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 261
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Devoman
I have been using a device similar to what you first asked about and it will stop the rattle. Bought mine at Camping world and its a little different. Because of the way the new Suburban hitch is set into the bumper I had to grind on the device a little to make it fit.
Uwe
This also stops all the side to side movement so far. I towed several thousand miles with the new hitch & device. If this hadn''t worked I was going to have a welder adapt an older Reese hitch to mount underneath the current hitch at a more normal height. I contacted (reese)Cequent and they said they had no plans to make a receiver since all Suburbans come with the hitch aka known as the bumper.
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05-07-2008, 02:56 PM
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#37
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayray5
2 1/2 " receiver size?
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Quite a few companies use a 2 1/2" reciever opening on their class V hitches.
You can see the welded sleeve in this photo.
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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05-07-2008, 03:10 PM
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#38
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Rivet Master
2003 22' International CCD
Kiln
, Mississippi
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,779
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I have a friend who hated this issue with his hitch - he had a 2nd hitch pin hole drilled through the hitch and bar and used a non-locking pin in addition to his lock pin to hold the bar in place - all noise was stopped. Seemed like overkill and the hitch alignment for this option was vehicle specific but it works. No way could it make the hitch or tow bar weaker - I have seen tow bars with up to 3 holes in them to get the correct extension under the bumper length. The two holes were only an inch apart. I'll see if I can get a photo. Drilling the hitch was no issue but the hitch bar required a serious drill press for proper alignment.
__________________
Michael & Tina with Layla and Preston BZ The family has grown. 2003 22' INTERNATIONAL CCD
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05-27-2008, 11:18 AM
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#39
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Rivet Master
2007 25' Safari FB SE
St. Hedwig
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 597
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I have an 06 3/4 ton Dodge pu with the Reese hitch and have also noticed a lot of slop between the hitch and the receiver.
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05-30-2008, 03:36 PM
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#40
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1 Rivet Member
valletta
, malta
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 6
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Blue ox have two kinds of tow hitch stabiliser on offer, they appear much more substantial than the one shown previously in this thread.
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