Hitch adjustment required?

[FCStreamer]

I recently changed my tow vehicle from a 2013 Cadillac Escalade to a 2018 Nisssan Armada. The hitch on the Escalade was 22.5” from the ground.

The hitch on the Armada is 20” off the ground.

I have an Equalizer hitch that was installed on the Escalade by a dealer.

Do I need to worry about those 2.5”, meaning, do I need to adjust the Equalizer hitch up 2.5”, or is that close enough to use as is?

[azflycaster]

Best to try it out and see if the trailer is level. Sounds like you might have to adjust the hitch.

[Mollysdad]

The hitch is adjustable in 1 1/4" increments because that's how far the holes are spaced on the shank.
Ideally, the ball should be 17 3/4" off the ground since that's what the Airstream coupler is.

I'm guessing you don't have large sockets and breaker bars, but it's an easy job and any trailer or hitch place can do it in minutes.

[FCStreamer]

I tried the hitch today, and sure enough it’s too low. I’m off to a hitch place to see if they’ll adjust it two notches for me.

[azflycaster]

Trailer does look nose down.

Wondering what is going on with the chains. Maybe you need more to have them hanging safely below the hitch.

[FCStreamer]

They looked fine to me. I crossed them over the top of the hitch. Should I cross them under the hitch?

[azflycaster]

Crossing under the hitch provides an additional safety factor. If there was a major hitch failure, the crossed chains under the hitch would provide a cradle to catch the hitch remains and prevent them from digging into the road surface. I was taught this when I first started towing and have always done it this way. It is a common practice and your arrangement caught my eye immediately.

[FCStreamer]

Thank you for pointing that out. I’ve learned something new. I shall adjust my chains accordingly.

[FCStreamer]

Got the hitch adjusted two notches. Will try it out this weekend to see if it works.

Any other adjustments needed on these Equalizer hitches?

[GCinSC2]

Not an adjustment but something to check while you’re in there.

Look on the bottom of the hitch ball stud for contact from bar sockets.

If you see marks in an arc or any contact the hitch ball stud is too long.

I found mine made contact and another equalizer that I just checked also had too long of a stud.

Makes big nasty sound in tight turns, no not the bar in the angle bracket sound.

And check the small angle set bolt make sure it’s snug along with the big shank bolts.

Gary

[FCStreamer]

Well, it looks like I may have to invest in some tools. I’ve been reading the Equalizer instructions, and they are pretty easy to follow to make the adjustments for a new car. But if I have to move those two bolts again, I can’t keep taking it to a hitch place. I need to make the adjustment on the spot.

It’s as good an excuse as any to buy a 300 lb torque wrench...

[GCinSC2]

Price might spook ya.

I’m all for following torque specs as best as possible. But I don’t have that 3/4” torque wrench. I do have a 3/4” X 40” or so breaker bar. So torque becomes weight applied at a known distance. Using 3’ and 100 lb becomes 300 lb-ft for example.

The 3/4” bar and correct socket also covers hitch ball nuts. And I was able to grind a little relief on a std socket for equalizer hitch ball nut access.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

Well, it looks like I may have to invest in some tools. I’ve been reading the Equalizer instructions, and they are pretty easy to follow to make the adjustments for a new car. But if I have to move those two bolts again, I can’t keep taking it to a hitch place. I need to make the adjustment on the spot.

It’s as good an excuse as any to buy a 300 lb torque wrench...

I got a "reasonably" priced wrench at Lowes, their house brand. Just remember to reset the torque setting to 0 after use. The click style wrenches have a spring and leaving it "at pressure" will weaken the spring resulting in incorrect tightness. Being larger than the standard 150 pound wrenches makes re-torqueing the wheels easier...

[Steamy1]

Hello,
Based on your picture, your distribution bars are not parallel with the Airstream frame. The bars should be as parallel as possible, and it looks like your L brackets also need to be lowered.

I finally came to the realization that I needed to carry the tools necessary to adjust the hitch while on the road; adding washers, removing washers, adjusting heights of hitch and L brackets, etc.

It can take several times to get it just right, then it all changes depending on your loads. It helps to become comfortable with the Equalizer adjustments.

[FCStreamer]

You are correct. I tried the hitch this morning. I’ve learned more about Equalizer adjustments in the last week than I ever expected.

So I started off with a hitch ball height of 22” and a coupler height of 21”. I figured, close enough.

Then I measured my fender wells. I was only supposed to measure the front ones but I measured all four. I was at 36” on the front and 35” on the back. This was unloaded.

I then put the full weight of the trailer on the hitch. I went to 37 1/4” on the front and 33 1/2” on the back. As expected.

I then put the WD bars on. It went to 36” in the front and 33” in the back. I would have called it a day were it not for the bars not being parallel to the frame.

Sigh.

I have to lower those brackets. I tried loosening the bolts with my wrench set, and the wrench broke. So I’m off to the store to buy a man sized wrench set.

3rd (and hopefully last) attempt to hitch coming up this afternoon...

[Mollysdad]

I've had good luck with the breaker bars from Harbor Freight. I get the longest 1/2" one possible, I think 24 inches. I matched it up with sockets from Amazon, 1 1/8" deep for the hitch bolts, and 3/4" for lug nuts, and then bought a 3' piece of galvanized water pipe from Lowe's, just big enough to slip over the handle. I keep those under the back seat of the truck, just in case.
Here's tip for working on your hitch. Sometimes it makes sense to turn the hitch upside down in the receiver so you can apply pressure on the breaker bar with your foot, rather than pulling up with your back.

[FCStreamer]

Success! Third time was the charm. I moved the L brackets down one notch and remeasured. I’m now at 36 1/2” on the front and 34” on the back.

I took the truck to a CAT scale, and I weighed in at 14,160 lbs. My GVWR is 14,425. My rear axle came in at 4300 lbs, and my GAWR for my rear axel is 4334. I was fully loaded with all passengers and a full tank of gas.

So I’m declaring victory and planning my next trip to Hilton Head in November!

[GCinSC2]

Originally Posted by FCStreamer

Success! Third time was the charm.

Whoa there, not quite. You have the LH bar on the RH side and the opposing forces will create a magnetic flux force exceeding the credit limit on your card and that is not what you want!

Gary

April Fools, but wait, it ain't April 1st.

Carry on. Give it a nice test drive.

[Mollysdad]

I'm anal enough to mount the bars so the label is up and out.
So when I read your jest, "You have the bars reversed", my first thought was, "No he doesn't!"

[Steamy1]

As GCinSC2 said, now you have to test drive it. I was shocked at how much of a difference adjusting the head by adding or removing one skinny washer made to the handling of the TV. Thus, the resignation to making adjustments in rest stops, parking lots, campgrounds, visitor centers, etc.


I have become obsessed with adjusting the hitch. I now have a meaningful relationship with it. My wife is concerned...….