1000 lb bars, 6 inch drop and FULLY screw jacked, with the trayla NOSE high.
and this isn't absolute, but it IS my best guess based on the info at hand...
1. gotta have 8 inch drop.
2. gotta have 1400 lb bars
3 may need to CHANGE HOLES on lower end of the screw jack tubes (see the haha owners manual)
the H2 /haha users here MOSTLY use 8 inch drops.
there is ONE fella towing with the 6 and NOSE high, who reports he's happy...
but the others use 8 inch drops.
the issue is TRANSFERRING mass forward to the steering axle WHILE keeping the trailer level.
to do THAT one must start with the TONGUE a bit LOWER and as the bars are tensioned the trailer levels out.
u will NOT ever be able to do that with the 6 inch bar, based on the photos.
the tongue mass is OVER 1000 lbs, so 1400 lb bars are needed.
if it was JUST a tiny bit (50 lbs) over, 1000 lb bars can work, barely.
but at 1200 u need 1400s.
the 1000s just continue to BEND but after reaching their rating, MOVE NO MORE MASS...
the orange company USED TO (secretly swap w/d bars) and might IF you really really get after them.
because the 1000s are WRONG in this situation.
getting the tongue weight down just moving stuff inside isn't enough (unless u r carrying anvils up front)
IF you removed BOTH lp GAS bottles that would scrub a 100 lbs off, but then where to carry them????
it is not safe to carry them in the SUV or TRAILER.
once the proper DROP and W/D bits are used, it MAY be necessary to change HOLES on the screw jack tubes...
this would allow for MORE tightening and wt transfer, BUT ONLY with the correct bars and stinger.
really that is IT, case closed.
now if u are IN ROUTE somewhere and cannot park till the right bits arrive these things will help a TINY TINY bit...
1. increase the AIR PRESSURE in the H2 rear tires (check the sidewalls for max)
2. increase the AIR pressure in the REAR tires on the trailer (65 max, but i might go to 68 if desperate)
3. load stuff OVER the axles in the trailer NOT either end, OVER The axles...
4. put some STUFF in the H2 MIDDLE seat.
but u are CLOSE the gvwr already so THAT is an issue too.
towing with the current set up is gonna STRESS the rear trailer tires and axles....
one could UNtension the screw jacks (this would lower the trailer nose) but then the STEERING axle will be light...
so CONTROL while towing would be an issue.
the COMPROMISES all have risks associated with them, that's why they are COMPROMISES...
nothing bad may happen for a 100 miles or a crack in the earth could swallow you and half of california...
if that happens take more pictures!
best of luck, get an 8 inch drop bar AND 1400 lb w/d bars and you will be in fat city...
and i don't want to OVER emphasize getting the proper wt/position and trailer angles, but these things are sorta important.
given your very FIRST POST was about potential disasters!...
Originally Posted by Astroboy
... the problem is Shakespeare is dead, and you can't converse with him...!
rumor is i am dead too...
and this post was recorded months ago for emergency use by the "errs committee" ....