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Old 11-04-2009, 06:56 PM   #1
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Here r my numbers (fresh from the scale)

Hummer H2 2008, GVWR 8600 lb
(Front axle rated for 4000 lb , Rear 5000 lb)

International CCD 28' with Hensley Arrows
[full fresh water, grey & black empty, lots of stuff (in front living room, in mid-galley, in mid-bath) but no much stuff in rear bed room]

-----------------------
Tow vehicle only (6760 total: one driver, almost empty trunk, full tank of gas)
1) 3560 front, 3200 rear

Hitched (14140 total):
2) 3220 front, 4860 rear, 6060 trailer

After adjusting WD bars...
3) 3300 front, 4740 rear, 6100 trailer

More adjusting...
4) 3380 front, 4660 rear, 6120 trailer

And again... (at this point, WD bars are ratcheted very very tight)
5) 3440 front, 4560 rear, 6140 trailer

-----------------------

I'm still not convinced as to how I should set up my WD bars...

Your comments or insights will be much appreciated.

Currently driving with #5) setting. I will check back in a few hours.

Gotta be on my way. Sorry to be abrupt.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:14 PM   #2
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excellent info astro'

1. which w/d bars?
2. how much drop on the stinger?
3. at WHICH setting is the trailer DEAD LEVEL...

there are other questions related to the haha,

but a couple of well framed PHOTOS would save us LOTS of words.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:17 PM   #3
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I'm wondering if I should:

Move some weight to the rear bedroom?
Move some weight to the tow vehicle?
Dump the fresh water (40 gallons, or 320 lb)?

Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:28 PM   #4
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I just took this photo with the laptop's tiny camera (sorry not much of quality).

The HAHA stinger is 6 inch drop.

I think the trailer is hitched little higher in the front, I can feel the floor is sloping down as I walk to the rear...(Should exchange to 8-inche, I wasn't sure which one, after exchanging several times from (flat, 2-inch, and now 6-inch).

Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:28 PM   #5
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see the questions in post 2...

the TOTAL tongue mass is ~1320.

subtracting the haha (~250lbs) yield a trailer tongue wt of ~1070 lbs....

which is RIGHT on 15% of the total trailer mass, a good figure.
__________

need more info.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:30 PM   #6
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Here's the photo.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:31 PM   #7
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6 inch drop, ok good.

the trailer is a little NOSE high?

is that AFTER adjusting the w/d bars or before?

WHAT RATING are the W/D bars...1000 lbs or 1400 lbs?

tiny pics betta than no pix.

NOW how about a CLOSE UP of the ORANGE thing and related parts of the A frame/tongue area...

i wanna see the screw jacks (bottom end) in particular and the struts and w/d bars...

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:34 PM   #8
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BTW, I actually weighed the tongue with Sherline this afternoon before I hitched up. It showed 1460 lb with HAHA attached.

I think, this is not good. I'm gonna shift some weight to the rear under-bed storage NOW...

Should I dump the fresh water? (Can I let it trickle, as I drive on Hwy...?)
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:40 PM   #9
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yes u can trickle fresh water, open the tank DRAIN valve...

but THAT will not solve the issues, and might make things WORSE...

especially if you LOAD the rear end and front end.

some fresh tanks are JUST BEHIND/over the axles.

so dumping won't help then.

gemme more pix....

and WHAT w/d bar rating???? 1000 or 1400...???

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:42 PM   #10
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WD bars photo...

The 1000 lb WD bars seem pretty tight to me. You see how the WD jack is slanted...
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:50 PM   #11
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Wow, I'm getting helps 2air... I'm awe-struck.

I read so many of his(or her?) threads (for hours & hours), which helped me much to be where I am with regards to this Airstream life.

It's like you read Shakespeare (or your favorite classic author), and you feel like he's your good friend. But the problem is Shakespeare is dead, and you can't converse with him...

Yet, here I am, conversing with 2air!!!
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:53 PM   #12
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It's freezing cold.

Gonna start driving now, wanna get to the next truck stop or rest area before I get tired for the night.

Can't stay no longer at this supermarket parking lot. Was just shooed by the store manager...

Will check back in later.

Thanks a million.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:04 PM   #13
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ok...

1000 lb bars, 6 inch drop and FULLY screw jacked, with the trayla NOSE high.
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IMO and this isn't absolute, but it IS my best guess based on the info at hand...

1. gotta have 8 inch drop.

2. gotta have 1400 lb bars

3 may need to CHANGE HOLES on lower end of the screw jack tubes (see the haha owners manual)
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1. the H2 /haha users here MOSTLY use 8 inch drops.

there is ONE fella towing with the 6 and NOSE high, who reports he's happy...

but the others use 8 inch drops.

the issue is TRANSFERRING mass forward to the steering axle WHILE keeping the trailer level.

to do THAT one must start with the TONGUE a bit LOWER and as the bars are tensioned the trailer levels out.

u will NOT ever be able to do that with the 6 inch bar, based on the photos.

2. the tongue mass is OVER 1000 lbs, so 1400 lb bars are needed.

if it was JUST a tiny bit (50 lbs) over, 1000 lb bars can work, barely.

but at 1200 u need 1400s.

the 1000s just continue to BEND but after reaching their rating, MOVE NO MORE MASS...

the orange company USED TO (secretly swap w/d bars) and might IF you really really get after them.

because the 1000s are WRONG in this situation.

getting the tongue weight down just moving stuff inside isn't enough (unless u r carrying anvils up front)

IF you removed BOTH lp GAS bottles that would scrub a 100 lbs off, but then where to carry them????

it is not safe to carry them in the SUV or TRAILER.

3. once the proper DROP and W/D bits are used, it MAY be necessary to change HOLES on the screw jack tubes...

this would allow for MORE tightening and wt transfer, BUT ONLY with the correct bars and stinger.
_______________

really that is IT, case closed.
______________

now if u are IN ROUTE somewhere and cannot park till the right bits arrive these things will help a TINY TINY bit...

1. increase the AIR PRESSURE in the H2 rear tires (check the sidewalls for max)

2. increase the AIR pressure in the REAR tires on the trailer (65 max, but i might go to 68 if desperate)

3. load stuff OVER the axles in the trailer NOT either end, OVER The axles...

4. put some STUFF in the H2 MIDDLE seat.

but u are CLOSE the gvwr already so THAT is an issue too.
_____________

towing with the current set up is gonna STRESS the rear trailer tires and axles....

one could UNtension the screw jacks (this would lower the trailer nose) but then the STEERING axle will be light...

so CONTROL while towing would be an issue.

the COMPROMISES all have risks associated with them, that's why they are COMPROMISES...

nothing bad may happen for a 100 miles or a crack in the earth could swallow you and half of california...

if that happens take more pictures!
____________

best of luck, get an 8 inch drop bar AND 1400 lb w/d bars and you will be in fat city...

and i don't want to OVER emphasize getting the proper wt/position and trailer angles, but these things are sorta important.

given your very FIRST POST was about potential disasters!...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...nly-43585.html

cheers
2air'

Quote:
Originally Posted by Astroboy View Post
... the problem is Shakespeare is dead, and you can't converse with him...!
rumor is i am dead too...

and this post was recorded months ago for emergency use by the "errs committee" ....
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:04 PM   #14
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Getting shooed out by the manager - what a poor sport.

I know nuthin about the haha's but if you hang in there long enough, these folks will set you up!

Stay warm and wishin' you luck.

Laura
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