Hensley vs. ProPride

[Rich Jenkins]

Originally Posted by switz

The sun sometimes creates a nice shadow on the curb side of the rig which is a good reference that one has cleared the other vehicle. Since I have the Voyager rear view wireless cameras on both trailers, I make sure the passed vehicle is a ways behind before pulling in. Sometimes the truckers will flash their headlights.

I always flash my headlights once the semi-trailer is safely clear of my rig so they can safely pull in. I usually get a thank you flash of their rear lights.

The shadow is a great reference point.

I started noticing the flash signal adter passing this year and started repeating it for semis that passed me.

I got some flashes in return, as well as the left-right-left turn signal sequence. I gather that sequence is also used.

I do have an on topic question.

This past trip, we went from Portland to Tampa to Ontario Canada to New Jersey to Tampa (long story.).

During that time, we changed from a 27' FC to a 30' FC, and towed the 30' FC anywhere from fairly loaded to pretty much empty.

My W/D bars (1,400 lbs) were set anywhere from 6" to 7" in elevation above the hitch in order to avoid porpoising.

Recognizing I need to get to a CAT scale, is that amount of change in bar height more or less normal on a PP hitch?

For example, would you typically change the bar height if you, say, filled the water tank (54 gallons in my case)?

[rmkrum]

From my experience towing a 22' with 1000 pound bars. I have to adjust between 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 inches depending on load in the AS and TV bed

Sounds reasonable. If I'm too light on WD it's real obvious porpoising. A little more cranked into the jacks and it settles right down.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums

[Ajlawcz]

Should I need a Pro Pride hitch with a F350 2006 Diesel super cab 4x4 long bed towing a 25' 2003 Safari? I have regular sway bars on the trailer now.

[SailorSam205]

Originally Posted by Ajlawcz

Should I need a Pro Pride hitch with a F350 2006 Diesel super cab 4x4 long bed towing a 25' 2003 Safari? I have regular sway bars on the trailer now.

That is a Six Sigma question. What is your risk profile - how many 9's of safety makes you comfortable?

I suspect there are many folks who will say you don't need any sway bars for a F350 towing a 25 footer. Adding any kind of sway control improves your safety, but at a price. Pro Pride or Hensley provides top of the line sway elimination at a higher cost.

So if you are the guy who always has the once in a million possible thing go wrong....

[kapt59]

Perhaps HaHa was a great idea, great company.

However, that is no longer the case, IMHO.

I bought one, new. They shipped me used. I complained, they shipped more parts, new but used!!

Hey guys, whats the deals. SO they said we promise to hand pick good parts! WHAT? I asked, they are not all good?

They really aren't professionals, pretty poor service. Warehouse shipping is a joke. Quality control is a foreign subject to them.

The quality of the head and jacks new, out of the box, was flaking paint, and rusting. The jacks arrived literally scratched and worn from use.

Has anyone seen a haha, 5 yrs old, that wasn't chalky orange mess? Why. I am guessing they don't want to pay to fix the problem.

It was a frustrating experience. They change their tune when I sent it back, and became uncooperative, or silent.

They need to wake up, or file bankruptcy. It is coming if they don't.

[Roadtech]

Originally Posted by kapt59

Perhaps HaHa was a great idea, great company.

However, that is no longer the case, IMHO.

I bought one, new. They shipped me used. I complained, they shipped more parts, new but used!!

Hey guys, whats the deals. SO they said we promise to hand pick good parts! WHAT? I asked, they are not all good?

They really aren't professionals, pretty poor service. Warehouse shipping is a joke. Quality control is a foreign subject to them.

The quality of the head and jacks new, out of the box, was flaking paint, and rusting. The jacks arrived literally scratched and worn from use.

Has anyone seen a haha, 5 yrs old, that wasn't chalky orange mess? Why. I am guessing they don't want to pay to fix the problem.

It was a frustrating experience. They change their tune when I sent it back, and became uncooperative, or silent.

They need to wake up, or file bankruptcy. It is coming if they don't.

My experience with Hensley is exactly the opposite of this. I have dealt with them for the past four years and they have been prompt, professional, helpful, and great to work with. I have ordered some parts and done a hitch exchange recently and the customer service could not have been better. My four year old Arrow orange paint is not flaking or "chalky". I have put a lot of miles on this hitch and it has worked flawlessly.

[SteveSueMac]

I'm beginning to feel embarrassed - like being a ProPride owner is like being in a cult.

Look - HaHa is a very good product. ProPride is a very good product. Practically all the commercial brand hitches are good products. You had a bad experience - clearly. I get that. It does happen. They sell new and reconditioned - something got lost in translation with your order and it was a bad experience for you. Understood. ProPride had a stinger weld failure which is far more severe than flaking paint. That was a one-off. They're not perfect either. Still a very good product.

You have 2 choices if you want a VPP product - both are good, both have their flaws, both companies and products have pros and cons like every other product and company on the planet. Seen any ranting on these forums about how Airstream sucks and is going out of business for their crappy quality? Tell that to the team that OK'd the expansion of the factory, purchased Nest, added a European product line, nearly doubled output, sold every last Pendleton at big bux, etc.

Quality can always be improved. Ranting against an organization that's been in business for decades because of one bad experience seems disproportionate to me. YMMV.

If PullRite ever brings back their TT hitch - I'm leaving the cult! [emoji3]

[MOS]

Save your money and buy an equalizer
I had a propride and for me the 4p equalizer is better

[m.hony]

Hmm...
Interesting...
I have an Equal-i-zer.
Been wanting a ProPride.
Stick with what I've got and keep my money?

[switz]

Have the Hensley Arrow on the 2015 23D International Serenity that was acquired when we bought a 2013 25FB International Serenity in October 2012. We have had good results, but the paint quality leaves lots to be desired. We replaced the tension jacks at CanAm in London, Ontario in July 2015 when towing the 23D home as they were too loose and unscrewing on their own to change the weight distribution settings.

CanAm in October of 2012 initially shortened the stinger and slightly bent it to preload the weight distribution setup as it was initially attached to the 2007 Mercedes ML320 CDI diesel. When we upgraded to the 2012 Ram 2500HDCummins, we purchased another Hensley stinger with 2" drop. After upgrading the 23D to 15" Michelin tires on 15" SenDel wheels, the 23D was at the same frame elevation as the 2013 25FB so all the measurements for the lift jacks were the same. Good customer service.

We have the ProPride on the 2014 Classic since new in January 2014 with no issues to date. Sean has been defray good at answering our questions as they arise and even sent filler plates for a snug frame fit when Was installing the ProPride.

[crispyboy]

Originally Posted by switz

We replaced the tension jacks at CanAm in London, Ontario in July 2015 when towing the 23D home as they were too loose and unscrewing on their own to change the weight distribution settings.

I welded some small tabs on the top of the tension jacks and place a snap pin in place so they don't unscrew. I believe Hensley does not recommend grease on these tube threads but I just can't help myself and grease the threads liberally - things must operate smoothly! They can be adjusted by hand or with cordless drill.

[Zybane]

I've really like my ProPride, well, up until the other day. Hooking up the hitch if your pretty level is no problem. But if you have any non-standard pitch to the stinger, holy hell the ProPride can be one pain in the ass.

The front of my truck was up on the crown of a road a bit as I tried to hook up the trailer. In the sweltering heat, I tried about a dozen different heights on the trailer with a lubed up receiver. That stinger would NOT go in. I was so pissed off I was contemplating taking a sledge hammer and knocking it off.

I almost thought I bent the yoke on the ProPride I had tried to insert the stinger so many times. It actually ended up pushing the clamps that hold the yoke center crossbar to one side instead of actually bending parts of the hitch. That stinger with a little bit of angle just LOVES to dig into the receiver and come to a abrupt halt. Having the end of the stinger be perfectly square is a really bad idea.

I may take my Dremel or grinder to the square end of the stinger and angle/round off the right angles. It was crazy how such a minor change in angle between the tow vehicle and the hitch completely ruined hooking up. In its stock form, I could not recommend the hitch to anyone that runs into different angles whilst hooking up, such as boondockers, off-road trails etc.

[bobmiller1]

You get what you pay for....glad you noticed !

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Zybane

I've really like my ProPride, well, up until the other day. Hooking up the hitch if your pretty level is no problem. But if you have any non-standard pitch to the stinger, holy hell the ProPride can be one pain in the ass.

The front of my truck was up on the crown of a road a bit as I tried to hook up the trailer. In the sweltering heat, I tried about a dozen different heights on the trailer with a lubed up receiver. That stinger would NOT go in. I was so pissed off I was contemplating taking a sledge hammer and knocking it off.

I almost thought I bent the yoke on the ProPride I had tried to insert the stinger so many times. It actually ended up pushing the clamps that hold the yoke center crossbar to one side instead of actually bending parts of the hitch. That stinger with a little bit of angle just LOVES to dig into the receiver and come to a abrupt halt. Having the end of the stinger be perfectly square is a really bad idea.

I may take my Dremel or grinder to the square end of the stinger and angle/round off the right angles. It was crazy how such a minor change in angle between the tow vehicle and the hitch completely ruined hooking up. In its stock form, I could not recommend the hitch to anyone that runs into different angles whilst hooking up, such as boondockers, off-road trails etc.

When you realized you were having trouble with the fit, did you adjust the WD jacks at all? If not - you'll find that when you face that challenge, loosening or tightening the WD jacks tilts the head with infinite adjustment - the head will eventually slide right on to the stinger...when I learned that, I never had a challenge at any angle.

Good luck!

[Ted S.]

Zybane

Give it time. My first few hookups with the PP were awful. I embarrassed myself eventually slamming the truck into the hitch.

2 years later I just have developed the knack for it. It takes time. Then when you get it, you appreciate the fact everything stays on the trailer tongue. Look closely at the WD jacks and adjust them to get the stinger lined up as mentioned here.

Now when I hook up I am really happy with it, I still have a popup camper and there are parts I have to stow when unhitching, thing of the past with a PP.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Zybane

I've really like my ProPride, well, up until the other day. Hooking up the hitch if your pretty level is no problem. But if you have any non-standard pitch to the stinger, holy hell the ProPride can be one pain in the ass.

The front of my truck was up on the crown of a road a bit as I tried to hook up the trailer. In the sweltering heat, I tried about a dozen different heights on the trailer with a lubed up receiver. That stinger would NOT go in. I was so pissed off I was contemplating taking a sledge hammer and knocking it off.

I almost thought I bent the yoke on the ProPride I had tried to insert the stinger so many times. It actually ended up pushing the clamps that hold the yoke center crossbar to one side instead of actually bending parts of the hitch. That stinger with a little bit of angle just LOVES to dig into the receiver and come to a abrupt halt. Having the end of the stinger be perfectly square is a really bad idea.

I may take my Dremel or grinder to the square end of the stinger and angle/round off the right angles. It was crazy how such a minor change in angle between the tow vehicle and the hitch completely ruined hooking up. In its stock form, I could not recommend the hitch to anyone that runs into different angles whilst hooking up, such as boondockers, off-road trails etc.

They say patience is a virtue. They forgot a hot summer day.

[rmkrum]

Rounding the sharp corners of the stinger end is a good idea, plus lubricating up to the middle of the wedge with some heavy grease.

The best I can offer on alignment issues is to adjust height with the front trailer jack, then adjust socket angle with the WD jacks. Once it's lined up, it's no issue.

Admittedly it's a knack getting it right the first time. I usually adjust height first, get close with the stinger in the truck, then fiddle angle with WD jacks. From there, it's just gently back into it. Some have suggested using a 2" square length of lumber to serve as a visual reference. I find it hard to gauge the socket angle at times. A stick helps with moving it as well.

Takes a bit of practice, built I have easily hooked up at almost 90 to the trailer, across a driveway curb from a crowned street with my crew cab Tacoma in only s few minutes. I was more concerned with tire scrub on the turn to get off the driveway. Had to park on an extreme angle to get the AS off the street because a PITA jealous neighbor calls the cops if my a-frame is barely over the sidewalk when I have to work on the trailer.

Right now it's running over 100 degrees around here, with high humidity. I understand the hot day problem....

I flat will not tow without the ProPride setup. Tried without it, will never go back to that white-knuckle scenario.

[dznf0g]

I would suggest dry lube for the stinger. Like mountain bike dry chain lube. Grease just attracts a lot of dirt and invariably gets on my hands and clothes.

[crispyboy]

High heat and humidity cuts my patience down considerably. Sometimes you just have to step away for a few minutes.
When hitching up the best way for me is to start with the hitch centered so when I back the truck toward the trailer it is parallel and easy to line up with the mirrors.
If the site is really off camber then get the stinger close as possible and readjust the head if needed. If you can get the wedges started you can pull the hitch together the remainder of the way with the over-the-center latches.
Once you understand what is involved it is quite simple and very fast to hookup a VPP style hitch.

[DC Bruce]

The Pro Pride has to be aligned in 3 dimensions. Use the trailer jack to get the height to match. Then use the w/d jacks to orient the recover on the horizontal axis to match the orientation of the stinger. It helps if you relieve all tension on the w/d jacks before you unhitch. If you're hitch pops or bangs when you unhitched and pull your truck away, you're not doing it right. After about 3 months of full-timing (and zero prior experience with any kind of trailering) this became an easy, one person job for me using only the backup camera in the truck. No need for grease (yeah, I tried that in the beginning), or filing down the stinger, or a big hammer [emoji375].