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Old 05-21-2016, 04:18 PM   #99
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...and because dealers must make a profit on what they sell, there's little incentive on their part to push for you to buy a ProPride. Sean sells them, not the dealer. Yes, they may get some $ for the install -- maybe at $110 an hour for labor. I am 100% satisfied with everything that has to do with the ProPride, and that includes both the quality of the product, the sales experience AND the after the sales experience from Sean -- which is absolutely first class.
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Old 05-21-2016, 04:21 PM   #100
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Hensley vs. ProPride

The fact of the matter is that PP and Hensley have a real investment in the fabrication of their devices, there is not room for a 100%+ dealer markup.

Therefore dealers do not try to sell them, there is little financial motive for them to do so.

This just is. Accept it or deny it.


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Old 05-21-2016, 05:16 PM   #101
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We just completed a 2500 mile trip with our 34' Limited pulled with our ProPride hitch. The hitch eliminates sway (likewise the Hensley) which makes towing so much more relaxed with winds and bumpy, curvy downhill grades. We have towed about 10k miles with this hitch.

I installed my ProPride myself following the well written instructions. Then off to the weigh scales to tune in the weight distribution bars. It was a fun project.

I simply put my floor jack under the ProPride hitch head and lift, drop the receiver coupler shoe, lower the hitch about 6", and then tie it up with my small ratchet strap. Now I can slip my regular hitch under the receiver and drop the tongue on it. I can position the trailer in my driveway with no problems. I've also moved it this way with a Bobcat.

The ProPride and the Hensley "no sway" hitches are well worth the extra cost.

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Old 05-21-2016, 05:49 PM   #102
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Like your great idea for temporarily dropping the hitch head out of the way.

Hadn't thought of that trick.

And no, I've never had an issue hooking up at angles up to almost 90 degrees left or right of center. It's a matter of aiming the hitch pocket right at the stinger.

Saw a suggestion back a while of using a short piece of wooden 2x2 into the pocket to line things up. Never needed that, but it's an idea to make it easier.

A few strategic pieces of reflective tape or white paint lines helps as well. It's not rocket science, just mechanical alignment.


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Old 05-24-2016, 07:09 PM   #103
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that and a bit of grease..

Got my PP hitched installed, taking off a equal-i-zer hitch the TT came with. used my floor jack to hold the head but had to:
1.) relocate elec junction box forward and on top of yoke,
2.) pull main gas line down and rebend to make room for lower part of ubolt around frame.
3.) cut off part of the round angled bar to give room for gas bottles cover to mount back.

entire process took almost 5 hrs and a trip to lowes to get chain extensions.

power cable just long enough to work..

first time trying to unhitch we fought it for over 45 mins.. wound up reconnecting and driving home. (it got dark on us) got home, straight and level and figured out how to see the ball move in the mount just as it relived pressure.. measured the distance to ground, put truck in neutral pushed it apart.. greased the stinger and hitch head with thin layer of material, pushed truck back and reattached over center clamps and took back to storage lot.

now with less angle, raised head to correct setting, removed OC clamps, used crow bar and started the process making sure all was loose, Spring bars, and move truck away with a slight movement of head..

they can be tricky for dam sure. grease stinger and head will help as well.

now how to figure correct amount of distance to crank spring bars up for smooth, less bouncy ride.. no cat scale close by so have to guess on it for now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Like your great idea for temporarily dropping the hitch head out of the way.

Hadn't thought of that trick.

And no, I've never had an issue hooking up at angles up to almost 90 degrees left or right of center. It's a matter of aiming the hitch pocket right at the stinger.

Saw a suggestion back a while of using a short piece of wooden 2x2 into the pocket to line things up. Never needed that, but it's an idea to make it easier.

A few strategic pieces of reflective tape or white paint lines helps as well. It's not rocket science, just mechanical alignment.


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Old 05-24-2016, 07:41 PM   #104
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If these are so great why don't more dealers recommend it. Pro pride should be out with sales people promoting it. Most dealers don' t want to deal with it I assume because how are they to move the trailer with a 200 plus pound weight in the way.

I see a huge problem with hitching after reading these threads, ie has to be perfectly level, need at least two friends to remove it from the truck unless you want to carry this extra weight around all the time.

Now I know why my delaer recommend the equla-i-zer.

Dave
Most dealers know nothing about either the Hensley or ProPride. As far as difficult to use, does have a little bit of a learning curve but I have had no issues with mine hooking up if you just get aligned and your angle of entry is correct. Adjust WD jacks to get angles to match stinger, back in, latch and basically done. As far as needing extra people to take off, I completely installed the unit myself. Use the vehicle to hold in position for alignment when setting up. The stinger on all of these are pretty heavy and different people are more capable than others so I won't really address that.

I've had the Equalizer hitch and though was happy with it, I find the ProPride is more stable of a ride and eliminates sway, quieter and just as easy to hitch up. Plus if varying payload amounts, easier to adjust level with the WD jacks without having to add washers and break down the hitch. I've cleaned the Equalizer up and it's sitting in my garage to sell if I ever get around to it.

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Old 05-24-2016, 08:37 PM   #105
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Hensley vs. ProPride

I don't have my stinger greased, and it's no issue getting connected and disconnected.

Other opinions about grease on stinger, and rationale?


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Old 05-24-2016, 09:42 PM   #106
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I see a huge problem with hitching after reading these threads, ie has to be perfectly level, need at least two friends to remove it from the truck unless you want to carry this extra weight around all the time.
No offense, but this is simply false. If a different hitch works for you, great.
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:47 PM   #107
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Other opinions about grease on stinger, and rationale?
I'm using inexpensive ptfe grease from Harbor Freight, just a light smear. Thinking is since it's a sliding contact, it will reduce stiction in the joint if it rains while it is connected for more than a day or two.
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Old 05-24-2016, 10:52 PM   #108
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We hitch/unhitch our ProPride in a few minutes every time, whatever the angle.

You must back in so the stinger and hitch box are lined up, otherwise it will never go, that's where time is wasted. You can move the hitch head to help, but backing is the key. If the hitch box is tilted to the stinger, align the head with the w.d. jacks. It helps to set the hitch head 1/4 inch lower than the stinger; the stinger will lift the hitch head going in, taking off any possible tension caused by gravity holding the hitch head at its lowest resting point.

To unhitch, back into the site a couple feet extra, then pull straight ahead to take any twist off the tires that will put sideways tension on the hitch (this is helpful with any hitch and also the tongue jack). Know the wheel well heights front and back on one side without without the trailer tongue weight. Or know the distance of hitch receiver to ground. Have a tape measure handy. When weight distribution tension is relieved and the bars swing freely, match your known wheel well heights or receiver height with the tongue jack. Unhook everything and drive away. But don't drive far, a couple of feet. Then take the stinger out of the truck's receiver and slide it back into the hitch head, very little effort and a place to temporarily store the stinger.

Take a few minutes to learn your method, it will be quick and easy after that.

It's hard to imagine the stability and comfort in towing these hitches give if you have never used one.
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:26 AM   #109
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^^^Great points. Pretty much what I've learned to do in three months travel since getting on the road in March.

Question: What do y'all do when the W/D bars interfere with the tongue jack foot at unhitch angles beyond straight ahead? Do you just straighten the truck out by pulling forward a bit?
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:44 AM   #110
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With the tongue jack foot, we're better off using something similar that came with the trailer, detachable. You can hitch and unhitch the ProPride/Hensley at an angle, but you can't always clear the w.d. bars with the tongue jack foot.

Yes, backing in and then pulling ahead to straighten things helps unhitching, and also helps clearing the tongue jack. Note: Be sure the tongue jack leg is raised high enough before hitting the road so the w.d. bars can't contact it.
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Old 05-26-2016, 11:12 PM   #111
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My tongue jack foot is not attached to the jack tube. The tube clears the bars just fine. Sometimes I have to slip the foot in from the back when at an extreme angle.


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Old 05-28-2016, 12:12 AM   #112
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DC Bruce - Thanks for the detailed procedure on hitching and unhitching using the ProPride hitch, this was very helpful understanding the process in Layman's terms! Thanks

Bruce Bruntil
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